Jimbo662 Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Well, now that I’m actually starting the “build” process I guess I need to start documenting my progress. Planning to get all the set up work done while I’m still in the house so that all I have to do when I move is set it up. Equipment: 75g Planet Aquarium Rimless w/external overflow Vertex Omega 130 skimmer 2 - Kessil A360W-E lights 2 – Vortech MP40w ES Eshopp R200 Sump Danner Mag 18 return pump Tunze Osmolator top off Will hopefully get an Apex before tank is ready tenants I’ll be working on the plumbing next week while the tempsare warmer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I'm jealous James, that setup is going to be awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Ty...jealous of my little ole tank??? You're so kind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 sweeeeeet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 That skimmer looks better than any coral colony I have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckyuv Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Nice start! I am jealous! What kind of stuff you Gona stock it with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 Gonna be a mix of everything. I'm hoping I'll be more successful with sps this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 Made a little progress today while we've got some great weather! Made some rubble racks to sit in the drain / return section of the sump. When it's time to clean it should be much easier. I got started on the plumbing. My original thought was to use flexible PVC for the drains and braided tubing for the return. I hadn't realized how short the distance would be from bottom of the tank to the sump and discovered neither one will be flexible enough with the short sections I would have to use. I decided to hard plumb it instead. Gotta make another run to Lowe's tomorrow to pick up some more stuff. The rock and sand came in. This time I ordered the Fiji dry rock and special grade Agri - live sand. The rock has dead stuff on it. What do I need to do with it? Just rinse it off really good? Next big purchase is going to be an Apex once I get moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph.Ruelle Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Nice looking tank/build. I especially like the LR boxes. It may be best to give the rock a muriatic acid bath, followed by an ro/di rinse. That'll 'cook/burn' any dead organisms/phosphates off the rock, but may also leave the rock a bit lighter than before. Nevertheless, it is the best way to start with pure calcium carbonate rock ;-) I'd say 1-2 gallons of Muriatic acid will do; prolly $10 at a hardware store. 1.5 gal/10 gallons of ro/di water in a rubbermaid container should do. Always dilute/pour the acid in water, not vice versa. If there are lots of dead organisms on that rock, you'll see noticeable foaming during the bath. Rinsing afterward with the pressure from a garden hose should help, or if you're picky about contaminants, a vigorous rinse by hand in ro/di water will do. Shoulder-length chemical-resistant gloves will also be necessary. Goggles are adviseable. Quite a project, might be expensive, but I think I did see someone giving muriatic acid away for free on CL the other day. If nothing else, a scrub with a wire brush, and pressure from a garden hose may help. Alternatively, you could leave the dead material on the rock, and it may help kickstart and/or prolong a cycle. Happy Reefing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 That's a killer tank. Love the external drain. Was it quarried rock, like the dry stuff from BRS? I got pukani from BRS and there was some random organic stuff and dirt on it. I skipped the vinegar and acid bath and just used it to cycle the tank. I did spray it well and scrub with a brush though. It did kick off an ammonia spike but I haven't had any problems except a little PO4 leaching after the cycle was complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 Yep, it's from BRS. Yeah, I'm loving the external overflow...it's so much easier to plumb compared to my last tank. I was thinking of just the scrubbing...there doesn't seem to be too much stuff on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimReefer Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 After the rock has a bath let it sit in r/o water at least for a day. I used dry rock before twice both times I had to change the water a couple times because it turned the water dark yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 That setup is already so beautiful I hate you lol. That tank, skimmer, lights, rock, and sand are literally exactly what I've been wanting to upgrade to right now so I'll be living vicariously on this tank thread. I'd personally do a bleach bath, then a short acid dip as well followed by a RODI soak. It'll slow down your cycle but will really clean off the rocks. Algae and phosphate are obviously going to get introduced as you go, but since the rock is already dry, might as well start with as blank of a slate as you can. Only downside to the acid bath is it will reduce your rock volume and it's density/hardness by a bit (10-20%) depending on how long you let it bubble for. I guess theoretically you could dissolve it entirely if you kept adding more acid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Bpb...too bad you weren't able to share in the misery of the flu I've been dealing with since Tues night!!! I lost two days that would have been perfect to work on the tank. Got the arms for the lights and heater. I went with a Finnex titanium heater that'll run through the apex. JPowell, the lights are appx 6 1/2" from the surface when positioned center from front to back. The depth will be appx 16 - 16 1/2 from surface to sand bed. Is the height of the lights good or should they be lowered / raised? I've got an offer on the house...hoping they schedule the closing for the end of Jan!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I did a leak test and filled the tank to just below the overflow slots. I noticed both the front and back panels were slightly bowed. I measured, empty it was 17 9/16...filled it's 17 11/16. It looks like both were about equal so each may have bowed about 1/16". Is this normal for a rimless tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 1/16" isn't too shabby for the bow James. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 WHEW...I was starting to worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Good looking tank , can't wait to see it come together! Planet makes some super nice tanks. The external overflow is an awesome feature def saves some room within the tank. What are your stocking plans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I've not even started thinking about stocking plans yet. I do want to try (successfully this time) more SPS and a mix of LPS and zoas. Not sure about fish. I know with a smaller tank I'll be limited on what I can put in it. I really want to keep it without any type of cover / screen. hopefully I'll get lucky like I did with my 175 and have no fish jump. I found these on Drs Foster and Smith to use for my zoa garden. planning to get 2 or 3 of each to let the zoas cover them. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18976 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Is it possible to get some kind of switch like this to use with the breakout box on the apex to turn a light on in the stand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 you dont need the apex for that. Just wire up a 12volt light/power source, with the grounding wire going to the lead terminal on a momentary switch. You want a switch that is off when pressed. I used a momentary switch from a refrigerator. You'll have to tinker around with the mounting, but in my case, the all pine stand has a perfect strip for mounting. You could also use magnetic switches/relays, as used on windows/doors for security. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Huh...LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 what kind of light is under your cabinet? is it an LED? CFL? etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 it's just a basic ecoxotic led stunner strip I bought several years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 ok easy peasy.. Youll want to get a 12v momentary switch, single pole, single throw (SPST), Normally Closed (NC). Take the switch, and splice the negative lead from your 12v adapter that goes to the stunner, into the bottom of the switch. Take another length of cable and run it from the other connection on the switch, and then off to the stunner strip. Normally closed indicates the circuit is completed when the button is up, and not down. Then just mount the switch on your cabinet, so that the door pushes the button when closed. I drew up a fast drawing, here ya go.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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