jestep

Opps, I completely missed the ich explanation. That's definitely a tough one. Do you have the ability to setup a hospital tank? THat's the most sure way to get rid of it assuming you can get all the fish out of the tank for 4 - 6 weeks. If only SW was as easy to treat as FW. Just raise the temp for about 2 weeks and done.

I like the T shape if you go the LED route. It should be easy to construct a hanging or other frame for it. You can then position the LED's for optimal light spread on the frame. Rectangular heatsinks are pretty easy to come by as well.

My question is what's your reason for wanting to get one? There are definitely times when they are appropriate like a hospital tank or treating some specific pathogen, but I think they would do more harm than good in many cases for a display tank.

Turn the flow down on the return pump and see if it solves the problem. If this is a single overflow line, you may need to keep the turnover fairly low to prevent the toilet sound every few seconds. There are basically 2 ways to keep an overflow silent. First is to run the primary line at a full siphon, which requires 2 or 3 drains to safely accomplish. The second is to run the overflow vented at about 30 - 50% of rated flow. This sometimes has to be lower due to the hardware and dynamics of the exact setup. By doing this, the overflow maintains a channel of air in the center of the tubing and the water flows smoothly on the outer wall. Too much flow and the channel collapses and you get gurgling gulping etc.

Welcome. Personally, I would say you're pushing it on that trigger, size-wise, as they get to about 15". I think most people shoot for 250+ gallons with larger triggers. Also the anthias may need feeding more that you are wanting to do. Not a major issue but keep in mind they need like 3 or more feedings per day due to their high metabolism.

You could setup a free blog on http://wordpress.com/ or http://www.blogger.com/. There's some other good free ones as well. Otherwise it can cost about $5 - $10 per month for a decent but low-end web host. You can use wordpress.org, or other blogging software for a really easy setup.

Very cool. I've been thinking about one for a while as well. I scored a really cool domain, but just haven't put it to use yet.

Welcome. How long has the tank been setup? Also, is the AC30 or sump running mechanical filtration like floss, a sock, or something else? If the cloud-stuff is floating upward, it's probably microbubbles. Generally, you can still see the tiny bubbles if that's the problem. If it's truly cloudy, I would look to other causes but it should clear up with time and mechanical filtration.

Tank looks good. There's several brands that make Par30 or Par38 LED's that look amazing on a pico tank. They do run about $100 though which is a pretty stiff price for such a small tank IMO. Ecoxotic is a really good one. BoostLED makes a great fixture / Par30 combo. There's a few others that are really good as well.

Arg... This is pretty much the exact tank I want in dimension, rimless, and the overflow style. Just hold on to it for a year and I'm game.

c'mon...use your imagination! I'm imagining the aquarium version of the dead sea... Is the ballast reparable at all or would it need to be replaced to get both sides working?

I was thinking about it. I literally can't imagine 500W of MH on a 36" tank. This is an absolute steal though.

You can order cut or whole sheets from tapplastics online. I've used them several times for miscellaneous pieces.

I want to see the chainsaw version...

Interested in a Bird of paradise and the duncan colony. Is there no hold at all, or no hold past weekend? Can pickup Saturday morning.

Mucus description sounds like a spaghetti worm. I wouldn't be worried about it. As for the asterina stars, if you don't see them on coral, I would leave them be. Mine seem to only care about film algae, but there are many species of them and some are definitely reported to eat coraline algae or actual coral. Melting corals is most often salinity in my experience. Ruling out salinity, the kenya and pineapple corals are possibly fighting which is why they look like crap. Soft tree corals are very prone to using chemical warfare on nearby corals. These chemicals are designed to irritate or stunt or sometimes completely destroy competing corals. I had a xenia and kenya go to war on eachother in a previous tank, and I eventually had to get rid of one. Running carbon can somewhat help, but IMO if they decide to fight in a tank this small, there may be no choice but to remove one. Anyway, I wouldn't quite go there yet. I think you're just hitting one of those new tank road bumps right now. Tanks this small are often difficult to maintain stable parameters Based on your previous post, I would still suggest staying on a routine schedule and make sure to closely match your parameters before doing > 10% water changes. I think this is one of those diligence and patience will prevail moments, unless you do find something measurably wrong with the tank.

Looks great, love the yellow cucumber. I tried going to Pico route at work, but just didn't have the patience to do water changes at the office.

Salifert have been the best I've used, but they are admittedly very expensive if you are going to buy the whole set of them. Personally, I wouldn't worry about Ammonia and NO2 once your tank is established. You shouldn't ever have detectable ammonia or nitrite unless something really bad happens in which case I can guarantee you wont need a test kit to tell you something is wrong.

Nothing too exciting but got my refugium piece at lunch today. The rest of the plumbing should be here any day.

I accidentally ordered 2 of these. This will convert a Vortech Ecosmart driver to a wireless ecosmart driver. It's still in the sealed plastic. Converting one of my existing MP10's took me about 90 seconds.

It's definitely subjective. The elegance cube should be minimalist by any standard. Otherwise, I generally consider low rock to tank volume, and effective use of negative space. Doesn't need to be bare bottom in my book but the negative space element is crucial.

Drilled the fuge last night. I think my 3/4 bit is getting old as it seemed to take forever with the 3/4", bit much faster with the 1". My daughter definitely missed out on 30 minutes of sleep with that one... Ordered a small single piece from cerameco for the fuge. I was going to try and buy a nice single rock from subsea, but I decided to stick with my original plan and not use any real live rock in this system at all. Hopefully I can get the tank moved over this weekend. I accidentally ordered some white SCH40 plumbing parts so I may need to put it off for another week until I get the SCH80 replacements in. These are just visible enough that I don't want to mix white and grey plastic plumbing parts. In the meantime, I scored this sweet rainbow / orange hammer from AAF, Will update again when I get my fuge ceramic piece in the tank. Still planning on a very calm mud base with a mangrove and some red and green macros. I've toyed with the idea of putting a pair of captive bred bangaii cardinals in the fuge. I'm typically on the fence on whether hobbiests should be breeding fish at all since many times there's no easy method of placing the offspring. I don't think I would have a hard time placing these for a few dollars each if it ever does come to that point.

Nice. Got that one saved.

Here's a few that I have bookmarked: http://glassbox-desi...ick-thors-reef/ Still one of my favorites: http://www.rimlessreef.com/ The most minimalist: http://reefbuilders....o-population-1/