jestep

Speaking generally since I don't know exactly what you are looking for, but I would hire someone to make a clean and simple site. I have never found a out of the box software program that is worth anything compared to an actual web designer. Realistically a 1 page site with a contact form on the home page is a good start and shouldn't break the bank. We do this for some of our outside reps and have had good results. For hosting, I would go with something like hostgator or pretty much any non-godaddy setup. I have hosted there in the past, and it's one of those, never again experiences. Some people like them but the restrictions they have on everything make it a burden to try and develop on their servers. If you need any advice or suggestions let me know. I've been programming, designing, and running ecommerce and service sites for about 10 years. I don't really have time for side projects but would be more than happy to give suggestions on anything.

Now I know what to do with my old eclipse. I'm still a big fan of the liquid nitrogen cooled ones...

I'm definitely going to keep the chaeto in the sump. Stuff works great, but looks horrible. Have a mangrove with a big root already started. Planning on starting with that and maybe some light rockwork if any. Probably add some red dragon algae or something similar that fits the layout. We'll see how it progresses.

Going for something like this but on a smaller scale: http://reefbuilders.com/2010/12/20/julian-sprungs-refugium-oasis-reef-life/

Rimless display fuge and new stand coming soon.

This is more of a preference than anything. I grew a bit tired of snails and hermits everywhere, so personally, I wouldn't add anything unless you need it. The main concern is whether the tank is cycling or not. If it is, you definitely don't want to add anything, fish or invert. Unfortunately it's a double edged sword though. Without any bioload in the tank, the tank might not build up and maintain enough bacteria to support a fish. I think I would add the cured live rock as you were suggesting. Then wait a few weeks before adding anything else. This should allow more bacteria to establish throughout the tank. The bacteria starter may have helped some, but most of the time they will not completely prevent a cycle. Adding established rock can prevent the cycle assuming you don't overstock too quickly. I would also anticipate several algae blooms over the next 6 months to a year. It's pretty typical for a new tank to go through phases including cyano, GHA, and possibly a diatom bloom. I would add the correct clean up crew at the first sign of a particular algae but just remember if you add a huge CUC you will get die-off which further contributes to more algae. Keep up with weekly water changes and they should all pass without too much problem. Also, make sure to dip everything you put in the tank. The last thing you want to do is introduce bryopsis or caulerpa recemosa or any other highly aggressive algae into the tank.

Looks like a good start. I would probably hold on to the heater just in case. My tanks typically use a lot of heater in the winter and absolutely none in the summer.

If anyone gets these to maturity, I am interested in one. I have a nice completely black female ocellaris and would like a male for her to pair up with.

Found one in an old diving folder I have. Didn't think to look in my non aquarium pictures. Here's the original. We inadvertently left the stupid date setting on, so I had to painstakingly photoshopping it out of most of them.

He wasn't the one in the big flat tank I saw this afternoon?

They should be. I don't think MJ sells any non-polarized glasses. One easy way to tell is to look at a laptop or lcd screen. The possible angle of view will be greatly reduced or you will see swirls or colors in the screen.

On the polarized topic, there is a huge difference in this working based on the quality of the glasses. I can tell in my rayban or maui jim fishing glasses before they're all the way on my head. The $5 drug store ones can be difficult to tell at all.

I would assume the bottom is tempered. Sometimes the back of a tank is tempered. I've never heard of the sides or front being tempered. You can always go with a horizontal overflow, but it would need to be 5 or so inches away from a wall. If you have some polarized sunglasses, you should be able to tell pretty easily. There's a few other methods like using a laptop screen behind the glass.

They are currently having their $1 sale. You may have to check several for that size tank though.

Most likely some common flatworm variety. They are generally benign and they feed off excess detritus and nutrients. There are nasty varieties that eat coral and some that are parasitic to fish. If you don't see them on coral they are probably ok, but you would want to look closely during the day and at night, and just before the lights come on. Some wrasse (6 line) eat some types if you want a natural removal method, but it's not a guarantee at all. Excess nutrients is normally the cause.

Looks like a flatworm. I've never really seen one swimming around though. How large are they?

Would love to see how the 8G is coming. Looked great last time I saw it, much better than I was able to accomplish with it.

Very well thought out system, from sump to tank. Can't wait to see it established.

Very cool tank. I hadn't seen this until now. Definitely some unique dimensions to work with.

Thanks. I'm currently in an all out battle with myself trying to leave it be and let everything grow in. It's so hard to be patient sometimes. I've definitely thought of throwing a background on there. Definitely better than a white wall and a few cords.

Looks great. The hood is outstanding.