caferacermike

Robb lets be honest for a sec ok? Would you rather eat your Nori raw or roasted. Thought so. So would your fish.

Robb seriously? I mean come on. What are those, 10g tnaks? I could lift them from side to side if I wanted to make a wave in it. Those are itty bitty tnaks.

What's a MACNA?

That is a really really nice stand and canopy. I should know, I was there when it was built. $300 is probably about what the raw materials would cost you. Everything that was used to build it was furniture grade. Bump for a very nice stand. I would grab it myself if it did not involve draining my tnak and having to reset it all back up.

It's only like $2 at HEB

Gone.

Lol, thats a lot of protection to grow tomatos. I've been secretly hoping the DEA would bust open my doors due to my increased electricity use and that hot spot I call my reef tank.

We see you posting in the forums but are you so lame you cannot multi task on chat and forums at the same time?

Yeah........well..........oh......... Then you might need to start snooping around cause it probably isn't to full. Any hang on eqpt or over zealous powerheads? Just trying to find any other reason for it to not be a seam. But I can't.

Does the tank have an overflow that diverts water to a sump? If not, how high do you keep the water? If the water is to high it can wick over and between the trim. If the silicone that holds the trim on only has a gap in that corner, it may be showing itself over there. If you have a reef ready with overflow and it's still doing that, then chances are the water level is not to high and yeah, bad things afoot. Hopefully you can find it and it isn't a leak.

Sold and gone! Thanks.

A skimmer helps tremendously.

Came with a ballast I wanted for spares. Can be yours if you pick it up. A frag is welcomed. SPS, LPS and zoa only. Sorry can't have anything take over my tank. No frag necessary if you can tell me why you need it.

You still don't have the tnak on it yet?

A couple of small LED's in white or blue generally won't affect the fish either and will help light up the tank. Red does not seem to bother at all. You might be able to add a lot more reds with a few white or blue so you can really see into the tank. Just one thing to note, I read online a couple of years back that thieves were tuning into all these home cams/baby monitors to watch your routine. They would find the stream and work backwards, some were opportunistic in that they were already a member of some forum and heard about/saw the stream. They tun in and see approximately what time everyone is gone for work and then break in. It is said that the reflection of the room can be seen in the tank's glass. They can see you walking by or watching TV and such. It's just something to think about. If you decide that the risk is worth it, or that there is no risk, chat up ACampbell as he had one running for a few years on his bio-cube.

I meant to add that your powerhead "oomph" can be dialed down if you feel it is to much. You'll still get the wave.

I'm confused. You say you have 2 already, that's what the extension is. As was said before Hydro, you have 2 methods (actually 3 if you adjust the height of your box) to control the waves. The first and easiest is the pulse duration. That is what makes the wave. Then you can control the output of the powerhead itself. This is a small white cross on the back of the controller if it's the old aluminum box or it's midway up the cord on the new plastic box units. If the rain goes away I can come out and see if I can help. I'm still on Vacay!

Location? I'd probably do that unless I figure out I already have them. Maybe 10 heads or so.

Prices? I like the middle set of zoa.

Ok from the horses mouth, Wavebox extension In case of aquariums with volumes of over 1,500 litres (396 US gal.), a Wavebox Extension 6215.50 should be added to the existing Wavebox. The Wavebox extension contains the Wavebox 6215, however without Wavecontroller 6091. The combination of Wavebox and Wavebox Extension is suitable for aquariums up to about 3,000 litres (about 792 USgal.). Each additional extension (three maximum) increases the volume recommended by about 1,500 litres (about 396 USgal.). The Waveboxes can be placed beside each other or opposite each other, and a Wavebox Extension 6215.50 can be connected to Wavebox 6215 without any additional accessories. A Y adapter 7092.34 is required only for two or three Wavebox extensions. The Wavebox extension is also suitable for operation with Multicontroller 7096. Strange thing called Google. KaceyJ showed me Google a couple of days ago. Man it has changed everything for me. Also for those that don't know, Tunze posts all their publications online. http://www.tunze.com/fileadmin/gebrauchsanleitungen/x6215.8888.pdf Simple huh.

Ok I'm not going to argue the points that have been made, some are good-some maybe not so good. If this was me, 1. I can't think for a minute that ordering 10 fish all at once is a good idea. I understand the want to introduce them at the same time but what a handful. 2. I sure wouldn't put them all in the same tank. The entire idea of QT is to QUARANTINE. What exactly would you be quarantining by placing them all in 1 tank? All you are doing is keeping the fish in your display safe, while placing all the new already stressed fish into jeopardy. All it takes is for 1 of those fish to be sick and BAM they are all dead. That's why you are attempting to quarantine right? So that they all have a fair chance at living. I could understand placing them all in a quarantine together if they were all suffering from the same situation, disease, parasite etc. Right now you need to quarantine them from each other as you don't know which 1 might be the time bomb. 3. I certainly would not use 100% water from my display tank. That water is dirty. I always like to go back to the beginning, why are you doing the water change? Because you've deemed it unfit for the display tank and inhabitants. How on Earth does that translate to "perfect for already stressed fish". Just like your display, dilute the old nasty water. I'm certainly for using some of it, maybe 70% new to 30% old. That way you get some of the benefits of possible bacteria and such. Yet if I was investing in thousand dollar fishes, and yes I once had a Blue eyed plectostomus that retails around $4-5,000 each, I think that I would be mixing up a perfectly matched batch of new water. That way I could be 100% certain that no creepy crawlies would be in my water at all. I'd be matching the important things like PH, SG, and ALK. I'm certain I wouldn't be worried what my calcium levels would be. 4. On to keeping the fishes in separate tanks. Not knowing how large the fish are that you are ordering. I'd probably be looking at 10g tanks for fish that are around 3-5". I'd decorate with sterile items such as pvc or broken clay pots. The reason for small tanks is that I'd be doing daily water changes of at least 50%. The smaller the tank, the easier that is. I'd try to have a very large container of pre-made water so that it is always consistent. With a smaller tank I'd only feel the need to run some sort of cheap filter with carbon in it. Probably a sponge type filter that I could load with bacteria. No sand, no live rock. I'd also run a smaller tank so that I could use less medication should the need arise to treat 1 fish. By using separate tanks only the fish that needs attention gets attention, thus reducing possible stresses on otherwise "healthy" fish. A smaller tank allows me to quickly remove the water to alter the dose or to do 100% water changes and then continue my medication dosing so that I know how much is in the water. Kind of like water changes, as you keep adding meds we don't know what it is doing to the water. By removing the water and replacing it and then reapplying the medications, we control exactly how much is in the water. Live rock and sand can allow microorganisms that could be bad a place to hide out. Once hit with meds it could be totally useless on the "beneficial" scale so worry about it. 5. I think I would be watching them and worrying for about 2 weeks. After that I'd become a little more relaxed and begin doing smaller and less frequent water changes, slowly building them up. After about 4 weeks, and showing no signs of issues, I'd begin to slowly add more display tank water during my water changes. After about 5 1/2 weeks I'd have them in about a 80% DT water to 20% new water. That way they could be considered "acclimated". 6. Maybe around week 5 I'd consider allowing them all together in the 75g to see what challenges arise before adding them to the DT. But then again, the tank is much smaller than the DT. Those that may fight in the 75g might not quarrel in the much larger DT. Personally I think I'd first pick the less feisty fish in the DT for a couple of days to find shelter. Maybe the first 5 fish. I'd probably want to wait 2 weeks before adding the rest. I think the general consensus on the "safe zone" is 6 weeks for a true quarantine period. When I first got in the hobby 1 great piece of advice I received was to treat each new addition of fish or such livestock, as a huge bio-reaction. Your tank will stabilize to the new addition by colonizing more bacteria and such. Typically your tank only has "X" amount of bio-filtration taking place. For each addition the tank will need to ramp up to catch up or it can become polluted as the filtration lags behind. So I kind of heeded to the 1 fish per 3 weeks. Basically allow the tank to mini cycle between fish. Of course that becomes difficult with territorial additions and schooling type fish. That's why I mention to break it up a bit, add some fish and watch the parameters. Let the tank settle down and then add the rest. Make sure your skimmer can handle the new pressure, watch for algae, watch your nitrates to see if they rise. If the trates rise, really watch the Ammonia and Nitrites as of course most of us know, they kill fish quickly. If they rise, I'd think water changes would be the most efficient way to bring them down. I've never used a bacteria supplement, however I'd get opinions as it would seem that dosing the display a few times before the addition of fish might be a good idea to kind of boost the tanks immunity. So that's my take on the situation. What may be good for me, might be the complete opposite for someone else.

Yeah if it's all flesh something else might have disturbed it. Chances of actually gluing and getting it to stay are slim. My "Scuba Steve Hybrid" is always dropping a tentacle here and there. It's from my wavebox. As they sway back and forth, from time to time one lets go. I've seen them end up in rock crevices wondering if they'll grow, never saw one do it. If you just broke a portion of the skeleton away, as Jim said, you've got a winner.