caferacermike

Prices? I like the middle set of zoa.

Ok from the horses mouth, Wavebox extension In case of aquariums with volumes of over 1,500 litres (396 US gal.), a Wavebox Extension 6215.50 should be added to the existing Wavebox. The Wavebox extension contains the Wavebox 6215, however without Wavecontroller 6091. The combination of Wavebox and Wavebox Extension is suitable for aquariums up to about 3,000 litres (about 792 USgal.). Each additional extension (three maximum) increases the volume recommended by about 1,500 litres (about 396 USgal.). The Waveboxes can be placed beside each other or opposite each other, and a Wavebox Extension 6215.50 can be connected to Wavebox 6215 without any additional accessories. A Y adapter 7092.34 is required only for two or three Wavebox extensions. The Wavebox extension is also suitable for operation with Multicontroller 7096. Strange thing called Google. KaceyJ showed me Google a couple of days ago. Man it has changed everything for me. Also for those that don't know, Tunze posts all their publications online. http://www.tunze.com/fileadmin/gebrauchsanleitungen/x6215.8888.pdf Simple huh.

Ok I'm not going to argue the points that have been made, some are good-some maybe not so good. If this was me, 1. I can't think for a minute that ordering 10 fish all at once is a good idea. I understand the want to introduce them at the same time but what a handful. 2. I sure wouldn't put them all in the same tank. The entire idea of QT is to QUARANTINE. What exactly would you be quarantining by placing them all in 1 tank? All you are doing is keeping the fish in your display safe, while placing all the new already stressed fish into jeopardy. All it takes is for 1 of those fish to be sick and BAM they are all dead. That's why you are attempting to quarantine right? So that they all have a fair chance at living. I could understand placing them all in a quarantine together if they were all suffering from the same situation, disease, parasite etc. Right now you need to quarantine them from each other as you don't know which 1 might be the time bomb. 3. I certainly would not use 100% water from my display tank. That water is dirty. I always like to go back to the beginning, why are you doing the water change? Because you've deemed it unfit for the display tank and inhabitants. How on Earth does that translate to "perfect for already stressed fish". Just like your display, dilute the old nasty water. I'm certainly for using some of it, maybe 70% new to 30% old. That way you get some of the benefits of possible bacteria and such. Yet if I was investing in thousand dollar fishes, and yes I once had a Blue eyed plectostomus that retails around $4-5,000 each, I think that I would be mixing up a perfectly matched batch of new water. That way I could be 100% certain that no creepy crawlies would be in my water at all. I'd be matching the important things like PH, SG, and ALK. I'm certain I wouldn't be worried what my calcium levels would be. 4. On to keeping the fishes in separate tanks. Not knowing how large the fish are that you are ordering. I'd probably be looking at 10g tanks for fish that are around 3-5". I'd decorate with sterile items such as pvc or broken clay pots. The reason for small tanks is that I'd be doing daily water changes of at least 50%. The smaller the tank, the easier that is. I'd try to have a very large container of pre-made water so that it is always consistent. With a smaller tank I'd only feel the need to run some sort of cheap filter with carbon in it. Probably a sponge type filter that I could load with bacteria. No sand, no live rock. I'd also run a smaller tank so that I could use less medication should the need arise to treat 1 fish. By using separate tanks only the fish that needs attention gets attention, thus reducing possible stresses on otherwise "healthy" fish. A smaller tank allows me to quickly remove the water to alter the dose or to do 100% water changes and then continue my medication dosing so that I know how much is in the water. Kind of like water changes, as you keep adding meds we don't know what it is doing to the water. By removing the water and replacing it and then reapplying the medications, we control exactly how much is in the water. Live rock and sand can allow microorganisms that could be bad a place to hide out. Once hit with meds it could be totally useless on the "beneficial" scale so worry about it. 5. I think I would be watching them and worrying for about 2 weeks. After that I'd become a little more relaxed and begin doing smaller and less frequent water changes, slowly building them up. After about 4 weeks, and showing no signs of issues, I'd begin to slowly add more display tank water during my water changes. After about 5 1/2 weeks I'd have them in about a 80% DT water to 20% new water. That way they could be considered "acclimated". 6. Maybe around week 5 I'd consider allowing them all together in the 75g to see what challenges arise before adding them to the DT. But then again, the tank is much smaller than the DT. Those that may fight in the 75g might not quarrel in the much larger DT. Personally I think I'd first pick the less feisty fish in the DT for a couple of days to find shelter. Maybe the first 5 fish. I'd probably want to wait 2 weeks before adding the rest. I think the general consensus on the "safe zone" is 6 weeks for a true quarantine period. When I first got in the hobby 1 great piece of advice I received was to treat each new addition of fish or such livestock, as a huge bio-reaction. Your tank will stabilize to the new addition by colonizing more bacteria and such. Typically your tank only has "X" amount of bio-filtration taking place. For each addition the tank will need to ramp up to catch up or it can become polluted as the filtration lags behind. So I kind of heeded to the 1 fish per 3 weeks. Basically allow the tank to mini cycle between fish. Of course that becomes difficult with territorial additions and schooling type fish. That's why I mention to break it up a bit, add some fish and watch the parameters. Let the tank settle down and then add the rest. Make sure your skimmer can handle the new pressure, watch for algae, watch your nitrates to see if they rise. If the trates rise, really watch the Ammonia and Nitrites as of course most of us know, they kill fish quickly. If they rise, I'd think water changes would be the most efficient way to bring them down. I've never used a bacteria supplement, however I'd get opinions as it would seem that dosing the display a few times before the addition of fish might be a good idea to kind of boost the tanks immunity. So that's my take on the situation. What may be good for me, might be the complete opposite for someone else.

Yeah if it's all flesh something else might have disturbed it. Chances of actually gluing and getting it to stay are slim. My "Scuba Steve Hybrid" is always dropping a tentacle here and there. It's from my wavebox. As they sway back and forth, from time to time one lets go. I've seen them end up in rock crevices wondering if they'll grow, never saw one do it. If you just broke a portion of the skeleton away, as Jim said, you've got a winner.

Hydro, the longer the tank, the bigger the wave. I get about 1 1/2" on either side of my 75g. I've seen 6" before on an 8' tank. The tank was shallow and wide so it really got up and moved. I was amazed. Question, do you have them on the same end of the tank or opposite?

Guess I read your whole, if it's a POS then blah blah POS reply the wrong way. Took it to mean that you considered them a POS.

24/7 unless you use the photo dealio. I say 24/7. Never muck with the knob. You'll curse your relatives for it. A slight tweak to one side will cause you much frustration to get it back. So no, do not manually slow it down and ramp it up. Set it and forget it. If it ever slows, clean it but do not adjust it. If your corals begin to grow in the way, then consider adjusting it.

Hydro you said "Apples to apples". Dude that's my thing. You can't steal that from me. LOL Callahan, I think calling them a POS is a little over the top. I think they are junk for the money, that's true. I still think the Tunze powerheads are a better value. Hydro they also sell Tunze powerheads that can be ran on switchable controllers so that you can program them to alternate and such, so yes there is a comparable product for less money. Mhart Excellent write up. I do want to add that I always upgrade all of my Tunze eqpt to the super powerful magnet mounts. I much prefer the look to the clamps they come with. On that note, everyone that has owned a Vortech has admitted they fall off. My Tunze magnets have never once failed me. For the comment from Hydro about those that have never owned them making comments, I want to say this, I was actually talked out of buying them from Fishypets many years ago. It was his words that swayed me away from the product. He had first hand knowledge and told me of all the faults. It was convincing enough for me to avoid them. Then everything he had told me, I have heard again from other owners. Yes knowing that the powerheads can separate and fall even 1 time is enough of a reason for me to never want to own 1. My first concern would be that my $400 pump would fall off and shatter when it hits the ground, that is the luck I have. And as was stated, Tunze waveboxes rule. And in honest truth, you cannot compare them apples to apples with Vortech powerheads. They do not replicate the same type of environment. I think the real issue is that people, when considering which to buy, compare them because Vortech really wanted to push them as wave makers. If you just want powerheads and don't mind paying triple for them, then get them. If you are truly awestruck as I was the first time I watched a full tank of corals sway back and forth from the currents provided by a wavebox, then by all means you need to get the wavebox. Thank you Bruce for installing 1 all those years ago in the front tank, or should i say "F you for putting 1 in that display tankl"? Cause that's immediately when I knew I had to have one.

Oh your in RR so maybe you haven't been to the best old timey hardware store around. 29th and Guadalupe and also on Bee Caves. No biggie cause you can get them all over.

You can also get them at Breeds. Like $0.12 each

Aw but Hydro you mentioned their Achilles heal. They wouldn't have to add little adhesive things to the packaging if there were not enough people to complain about them falling off all the time.

Junk. Great marketing. Seriously. My old Tunze 6060 moved like 4,000GPH on something like 11w. People want Vortech cause the motor is on the outside, how much heat is 11 watts? All I ever hear is stories about them falling apart, the magnets not holding, and then the thing falls on and breaks/kills some coral under it or the impending sand storm. The last one I saw made this horrible constant rubbing sound. Not like a chirp here and there, it was a constant like a bad bearing or something. You really cannot recreate the water movement or true wave of a Tunze wavebox. Once I got mine, all extra powerheads came out.

Hey! Watch it.

AndyGSR and JG left the hobby.

Actually they don't add any oxygen to the water, common misconception. The bubbles lift water to the surface allowing a gas exchange. There is some movement here but seriously, and honestly why use an air stone do to this? At least, at the very minimum, step into 1984 and consider using powerheads to move water around. They do the exact same thing as a bubbler but way more efficient and tons better at moving water to the surface.

Hey at least Mark won't have one.

Maybe Santa will bring you a bigger tank. No wonder you are bored. Can't tinker with that one anymore. Looks good.

Looks like all the rest, Boring. But you'll over pay for it anyways. So just get it would ya? Quit wasting bandwidth.

Um, why are you using an air pump? I've yet to meet anyone that was using one besides a few freshwater hold outs. The bubbles can create microbubbles in the saltwater that some find annoying while it can also irritate some corals.

Once I set up mine I never once had a problem from them. I ran 2 over flow boxes for over 4 years. The house was downtown and would lose power all the time, very short outages. Never once lost siphon and never had any issues from them.