(Bio)³ Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Looks one in the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 It is a closed loop through bulkheads through the bottom. I have some better bushings coming to make them lower profile as well. I also am going to put just one nozzle per outlet. Does anyone no north SA or south austin have locline in stock so I can get the 1 .75" to thread adaptor that I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Grainger is my goto local place for locline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 +1 for grainger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Good to know! I looked on amazon before I drove over there and its cheaper to get it 1 day shipped from amazon then to go there though since I can wait a day. Will keep that in mind if I can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 I turned on the circulation pumps last night, the tank is pretty quiet at full blast, quieter then the HVAC system when the door to the fish room is closed, and I think I will be able to fine tune the flow a little bit more to get some noise down. I had to valve back the flow a little, with a dart running wide open the water level in the tank was coming up almost an inch above the overflow, as a result it was hitting the top crossmembers which looked really bad from the front. Slowed it down by maybe 1/4 and brought it down. So I think I will get the plumbing 100% done tomorrow, then install things like the skimmer and heaters and controllers over the rest of the week while the tank sits running full of water with vinegar in it. That brings me to a question, I was planning on running it with say 10g of vinegar in it, would bleach be better? Is there an advantage to either? Lastly I did some PAR testing with a high end meter that I borrowed from www.buildmyled. I was showing 900 at 1" 600 at 12" and 250 at the bottom, but it died off pretty fast near teh front and back of the tank, getting down to 70 all the way at the back corner. If I can get that light spread out a little more, maybe by adding one more fixture with a wide angle lens, that should be more then bright enough right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Just curious, why would you poor bleach into your aquarium? I'm pretty sure bleach is a fairly corrosive liquid. I mean it'll be diluted in that much water, but still I wouldn't recommend pouring bleach into an aquarium that you eventually want to have living animals in. I pour vinegar into my AC unit at home every month to dissolve any calcium build up within the plumbing and use it to clean up live rock when I really want it clean. I would stick with vinegar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Why the vinegar, even? Isn't this a new tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 yes it's new but I am worries that could have been contaminated during the house construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 good point. the only thing that would concern me would be paint/paint fumes. drywall (dust) is primarily gypsym (calcium sulfate) which will rinse away easily. As for the paint, just run carbon, it will remove VOCs like a charm. I'd triple rinse the tank (using a hose would probably be fine), then fill twice (and drain) before you get your tank water going. I don't think vinegar or bleach will be necessary, but it if helps you be at ease, vinegar certainly wont hurt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 I would only use vinegar or bleach (though I would never use bleach) to sterilize the tank if there were pathogens or some kind of biological infestation that you want to get rid of. It seems like you're dealing more with chemical and physical contaminants though, so physical cleaning of the water is what you need. I would just do what victoly said and drain the tank and rinse it and then run carbon for a while to make sure everything is out of the water. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 I got the plumbing 99% done and cleaned up the room behind the tank finally to take pictures. The tilers accidently tiled back there too so that is a bonus. I used electrical wire staples with plastic clips on them for running the wires and hoses so far and it works great! Under the tank To the right of the tank Looking into the room. I went to hook up my K2 kalk reactor last night and it turns out it has a barbed fitting welded into it, so holefully they will send me a new union with nothing on it so that I can run a hard line from it to my tank, I am not a fan of vinyl lines, especially when it has to go 4-5 feet like it does. I had a better idea for hanging my lights last night as well. I will get shelving brackets from lowes for putting the 10" shelves on your walls and a shelf that is ~ 8 ft long. I will mount one of the brackets to each 2x4 and put the wood across the top of them just like a normal shelf, then I can hang the lights on a pully system from the brackets since the wood is giving them strength side to side, and the shelf is a perfect place to put the ballasts out of the way! Just have to decide if I want to use the fake wood which is already a nice white color to match the room, or get a real piece of wood so that it doesn't degrade from the moisture, but it wont be a pretty white unless I paint it, which I wont Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 What kind of lights are you hanging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 8x buildmyled 4ft 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mFrame Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 8x buildmyled 4ft Interested to see how you handle the power cables and supplies for the fixtures. Are you going to use them with a controller so they can be dimmed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 yeah, he has an apex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 So there will be 6 cables heading from the controller up to the shelf, where you won't really see them anymore. As I said before there wil be a shelf at around 8-10 feet above ground where the ballasts will all sit, and this is what the lights will be hanging from. I could wrap the cables for the few feet that they will run exposed, but that makes it a pretty big pain if I have to take one down, etc so I will probably just zip tie them together once everything is tested out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 So that's 1 eb 8 taken up just to work the lights and how many dimming ports? Unless you split off 1 outlet and have a messy cord hazard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Yeah, that's the downside to the BMLEDs, you can't dim them off with the 0-10v port, you have to turn off the EB8. You might very well be able to use one 8 outlet strip (if your wattages are low enough and wont trip a single breaker) or 2 EB8 outlets and 2 4-outlet strips if you have a blue/white setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 I will use three outlets with a Y connector at the end of each of them from monoprice. since there are basically three different sections of lights that I might want on at any given time. The whites, the blues and the UV's (when I get them) http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022808&p_id=5308&seq=1&format=2 Then there will be two Ethernet cables with a few splitters on each. In fact now that I typed that I am sure that I dont have enough splitters coming!. So each cable will carry 2 signals up to the ballasts then split to the 4 signals (2 spliters) then each of those 4 signals needs to control 2 ballats (4 more) so I need 6 total and a bunch of 1 foot Ethernet cables. Not a big deal, and since you can buy the 1ft cables etc and it will be out of sight and there is lots of room up there it shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 I wont be anywhere near the wattage limit on the strip though, 720 watts total if all 8 ballasts are at 100% and only 360W on any one outlet max. It won't be an issue. The whole tank if everything is on full blast which is unlikely uses less then 1400w (the most I could imagine) plus the heater IF that is needed. I have 2 EB8's which will each be on their own seperate 20A circuit. I don't expect to run into any power capacity problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 I'd keep it on the 4/8 outlets since they can handle larger loads without getting stuck. Curious to see how the dimming ports handle the splitting, wondering if it will carry through all wires at the 10 V solid or if it will need repeaters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 the draw of 4 strips is less then a single metal halide. I am sure they won't be getting stuck. I wondered about the splitting too but I think since its all analog and its not a long run it won't be a problem. remember that the one splitter isn't even splitting a signal just sending 2 wires one way and 2 another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kfennell Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Pretty disappointing find today, I got the apex all mounted and hooked up, etc and I forward my ports, find out my IP blah blah blah andddddd I don't have a pubic IP with my ISP (Ranch Wireless) and a quick look at their site finds that they want $30!!!!! a month for one. That isn't cool. I can still use the app from inside the house, but I was really hoping to be able to monitor it remotely... I guess I will have to settle for email alerts until a good ISP gets out here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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