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mFrame

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Posts posted by mFrame

  1. If this is an exterior wall you don't want to cut the stud unless you frame it with a header and support each side of the header. Either way, in a new home you'll be voiding your warranty. You're usually better off replacing a door with one you can put a dog door in. When/if you move you can just put the old door back on.

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  2. Here's an extra 250w mh ballast, it came with my Odyssea light fixture. One of the ballasts for had a defect so I bought matching replacement ones and have this one left over. It's about a year old, and attaches with a standard pc power cable. Asking $50

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  3. Used but in good shape 29g biocube WITH stand, includes:

    mediabaskets media basket, fuge basket, fish saver guard 29g filtration package

    heater

    biocube 29 skimmer

    Koralia powerhead

    I have an extra set of bulbs that I'll include with it, as well as live sand and some GSP and a devil's hand leather.

    $225

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  4. If so they're not like any of the clown eggs my guys lay. Generally they're all laid out in a group about 3", and the clowns will be hovering near them. They start off bright orange but turn brownish after 4-5 days. At that time you can see eyeballs in them.

    Not sure what you've got there.

  5. I have 2 problems I could use some thoughts on.

    1 - I have a plug full of kedds red zoas that haven't opened at all in many weeks, maybe a month or more. Nothing is melting or looks like it's decaying. Just not opening. It's starting to look like maybe diatoms are growing on them. Should I try a hydrogen peroxide dip, freshwater, or what? I've already tried a dip in Seachem's Reef Dip with no luck.

    2 - I got 2 of the melting nebula palys from aqua sd last order and today they came loose from the plug. They are wide open and happy in the rubble box but don't have any sand or anything at the base to re-glue. What should I do with them to reattach to rock? I'd hate to lose them.

    Thanks!

    1) Once zoas start to refuse to open I've found you're not going to make it worse. Doing a quick dip and then moving them to a different section of the tank is probably a good idea. They might be looking for more/less flow or more/less light. With something growing on them I would aim for more flow. Don't be afraid to move them around.

    2) If you can, put them in a cutoff plastic drinking cup with a lot of rubble in the bottom. Palys are great at attaching within a few days and then you can move the rubble wherever you want them to end up. Just keep in mind that wherever you put them, they'll spread.

  6. I've got the Tunze nano wavebox on my 90 and absolutely love it. Previously I had 2 tunze and 2 korali PHs and I can tell you that there is no comparison to the movement that the wavebox provides. Anemones and softies look great in the flow pulsing back and forth.

  7. I was under the impression they split when they are happy, not mad.

    Splitting can be due to stress or due to "happiness". It's a survival mechanism. I've had GBTAs split when tank conditions are atrocious and split/spread like weeds when conditions were optimal (lots of light, regularly being target fed). In all cases an anemone that does not extend its tentacles is stressed. If it is not extending it could be due to bad water conditions, lack of sufficient light, or lack of nutrition. If it is because of light you can sometimes nurse it by target feeding small pieces of silverside or mysis. Mysis is preferable as a stressed nem can have a hard time digesting the larger, more solid silversides.

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