Daniel

In an effort to not waste my RO water, I was thinking about plumbing my RO waste water line into my hot water line. My RO input is obviously connected to my cold water line. I'm assuming that if the pressure of the waste water is higher than the pressure in the hot water line (via a booster pump), this should work out-- am I missing something else here? Seems like this COULD result in no waste water...let me hear your thoughts/concerns with this type of setup.

I do have a GFCI that is properly installed. I test it regularly and it works as it's supposed to work. I'll try to find a titanium grounding probe and see if that fixes things. I don't feel sick, so I'm hoping my heart is okay

Okay, so my Tunze Wavebox recently stopped working. I took it apart, tried to give the propeller a little assistance, but no luck! Frustrated, I just let it sit in the tank for a few days. Today, as I was working in my aquarium, I felt an electrical shock sharply in one of my fingers. As it turns out, I cut the nail on that finger a little short and so I was getting a shock through only that finger. I noticed that if I put only that finger in I felt the shock, but if I added my other fingers, the shock became very faint (but still there). I started unplugging all my equipment, starting with my Tunze pumps (2 x 6025 pumps). The shock was still there. I then removed my wavebox, and voila! No shock. I could put my finger in the water alone and still feel nothing. After my fish frowned at my excitement, I began trying different combinations of my pumps to see which ones gave me the shock. As it turns out, if any one of my pumps or Wavebox are plugged in, I felt the shock. I then took the Wavebox out of the tank and put it in a bucket with FW. No shock with the wavebox off (as expected), but I did feel a shock, albeit less obvious than in the SW, with it on-- interestingly, the Wavebox began WORKING. The propeller was spinning and sure enough, I had some wave action. I then added one of the 6025 pumps into the bucket, plugged it in-- and after a few seconds-- silence. The Wavebox stopped working. I then turned of the 6025 pump and after a few minutes... the Wavebox was working normally, but I could still feel the shock. So I'm not entirely sure why there is current leaking into my tank. The 6025's are on AC current and the Wavebox is on DC current. It seems like there's some sort of interference going on, but it's not completely evident to me what's happening. Will someone kindly illuminate what's going on and how I can get all my pumps working together in harmony? None of the Tunze equipment is grounded. Should I try to ground my aquarium? Daniel

Okay, I bought a Reeflo Snapper a little over a month ago from Aquarium Specialty and I had it running for about a week. This is in like- new condition, with less than a week's worth of usage. I'm including a Sch. 80 check valve and a Sch. 40 ball valve. I paid $300 shipped to my door, plus the extra money for the check valve and ball valve. Product Details: ReeFlo Snapper Description: The Snapper™ is quiet like the Dart but it consumes 35% less wattage. It can even be valved back for even lower watts. Ideal applications for this unit are aquariums 75- 150+ gallons. The Snapper™ is great for closed loop reef systems requiring high turnover. This unit is rated for moderately low head pressure and a maximum flow rate of 2500gph, shut off head of 10.5 feet and a maximum wattage of 98W/0.9A. Our low speed, 1/8 HP A.O. Smith motors have extremely low heat transfers. Features: Quiet operation Minimal heat transfer Units are pre-wired with an 8ft cord and molded 115V plug Low Speed Low Wattage Flow-biased pump Fan-cooled motor Specifications: Maximum Flow Rate: 2500gph Maximum Shut-Off Head: 11` Maximum Wattage: 108W Average Wattage: 98W Inlet/Outlet: 2" FNPT / 1.5"" FNPT Dimensions (L x W x H): 11" x 6.57" x 7" Warranty: 3-year manufacturer`s warranty Daniel

I have had one-- the tube from my topoff was accidentally pulled out of my sump. I was gone for a weekend and my Tunze Osmolator emptied 18 gallons of FW (thank goodness it wasn't SW) on to the tile and carpet. Daniel

Picked up a colony... but now I need to let it color up! Wheee!

So I've been building a new matching canopy and I bought a 2" diameter cove raised panel router bit for my canopy doors. As it turns out, I actually need a 3-1/2" diameter bit (1/2" shank). If you have one I can borrow, or know where I can get a good quality one locally (~$40), I would appreciate it. I would order one online, but I want to get this project done before this weekend. Please let me know! Thanks, Daniel

Mark, what's your new skimmer?

Pending.

I have a 75 gpd RO Membrane that was used for about 4 months. I purchased a 100 gpd membrane about 7 months ago (when I upgraded my aquarium) and have been using that. In all, the membrane is about a year old and works to spec. It has been sitting unused since I installed the new membrane. These things are generally good for about 2-3+ years, depending on tap water quality. Asking $10. New, I believe these are about $30-40(?) Daniel

Snails, in my experience, are very sensitive to pH swings. How big have your pH swings been?

What's still available?

I have 3 blue legged hermits and started with 6 medium-large Mexican turbo snails. The snails have been breeding like crazy, so I have quite a lot of snails now (probably ~60 of varying ages/sizes). Personally, I'm not a fan of too many hermit crabs because it gets annoying when they kill your hapless snails, but I suppose they can help control the snail population. I feel like a lot of the suggestions for a large CuC are grossly exaggerated. A couple of snails, a couple of crabs, and I think that's plenty. Having a healthy fuge with plenty of amphipods and copepods should cover any remaining detritus. Just my thoughts...

haha, very nice... I still have my lowly 90g. Whose building the tank?

What are y'all upgrading to?

Looking for a decent sized blue-tip efflo frag. PM me with size, price, and other details. Thanks, Daniel

I believe you can dip the magnets in a liquid plastic dip-- http://www.plastidip.com/. Someone else will have to confirm which products are reef safe though, as I do not know...

Melev posted on the subject: http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html

I was hoping to get those corals from ckimble, but you beat me to them! I think your best bet, considering your params look alright, is to move the corals down-- at least to the bottom third of the tank. I would also consider placing the corals to the sides of your mh and not directly underneath. The intensity of the mh lamps are probably the reason for the bleaching. I don't think there are any specific known bacterias required for sps to thrive. The primary reason for waiting to add SPS is likely because they are finicky/sensitive corals and established tanks are more stable in terms of chemistry and biology. Daniel

I just ordered ~$16 (before discount). Looks like they gave a ~25% discount. Yay.

My understanding with eductors was that they added a significant amount of head pressure to the pump...

The one that Ric posted has a ton of LEDs... yummy.

I just changed my photoperiod: Main Tank: Moon Lights: 8a-11a, 11p-2a MH (2x250w): 11a-3p, 5p-8p (7 hours total; staggered to help control the heat a little) VHO: 3p-11p (currently 4x110w VHO, but switching to 2x54w T5) Fuge: 7p-noon Grow-out: MH (1x175w): 10p-6a

I have had good experiences with Salifert's Calcium test kits and many people use the B-Ionic 2 Part (there are other equally effective options out there). Daniel

Hello guys, I emailed the folks at Aquarium Specialty regarding a group order and I am waiting to hear back. Orders over $175 receive free shipping (on dry goods only, with some limitations) Website: http://www.aquariumspecialty.com Current Specials: http://www.aquariums...og/specials.php As of now, I believe you'll have to Paypal me the money for your order. If they'll allow direct payment, I'll post here and let you know. My current total is ~$110. I'll set the cutoff date (as of now) for this Sunday, 8/23 @ 2p. Thanks, Daniel