Daniel

lol! I'm leaving now. Once these things grow out I'll frag you something for going through all the trouble to setup our group orders!

Since it's been delivered already... are we still waiting until 1045? I guess you might say I'm a little eager to come

Yay!

Assuming it's not humid, it should actually work alright... but then again, if you spend that time purifying your water, why let it go into the atmosphere?

I can take it when I come tomorrow morning...

In my old tank I always noticed Kenya Trees negatively affecting my LPS and SPS corals. I would recommended either getting rid of the Kenya, or putting it as far away from LPS/SPS.

That's correct. Standard tempered glass is all you need.

I could use some too...

Pretty sweet deal! If you part-out, I would be interested in the Phosban Reactors and blue tang.

I've been purchasing my Phoenix 250w 14k lamps from petstore.com (they have an eBay site) for about ~$120 for TWO bulbs w/ shipping. Also, the Radiums are only SE... which sucks. The Phoenix 14k lamps are definitely a good compromise, in my opinion.

As an additional precaution, you could try raising your light fixture a few inches and slowly dropping it back down. However, you probably don't want to change too many things too quickly. The change from 20k to 14k is probably not the most drastic thing in the world, but still be careful! I highly recommend those interested in researching MH bulbs/ballasts refer to Sanjay Joshi's work: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting You can go through the little module under the 'Lamp & Ballast' tab and mess around with different lighting combinations. You'll probably be most interested in the "PPFD" value as this refers to a value similar to PAR (photosynthetically available radiation); higher values are better, lower values are not. Daniel

Mark-- payment sent! Cheney-- I have a *small* LTA (2" fully open), but it's probably too small to host your clowns...

ReefCentral had a good post recently on a DIY Wavebox using a similar Tunze pump. I'm not sure if you've read it yet, but I'll look for it...

Do you think you had better growth with your 20k? I think that goes against what most people experience since 20k lamps often have less than half as much PAR as 10k lamps. I love the color of good 20k lamps like the Radiums (even more than the Phoenix 14k)....everything looks so delicious.

I love the color of my Phoenix 14k ...but I kinda wish they made radiums in 250w DE =/ I love the blue! I believe almost all (if not all) DE bulbs lack UV protection and consequently require a glass shield. SE/Mogul bulbs have a built-in UV shield. The primary motivation behind using a DE bulb, from what I've heard, is that they tend to have higher PAR ratings relative to their SE/mogul counterparts. Because you're 1) getting a new bulb and 2) switching to a bulb with a higher PAR, acclimating your corals is very important. Instead of physically placing something in front of the lamps to reduce their output, I would highly recommend a shorter photo period. You might try cutting your MH photoperiod in half and try increasing it an hour each week until you're happy (er... I mean your corals). Daniel

Please PM me price for a frag (3+ polyps). Daniel

Mark is correct. Also, Boyd makes the Chemi-Pure Elite (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4177) which contains both carbon and ferric oxide. It's a little on the expensive side, but I've heard it works well.

What's the price on them?

What pump were you going to use for the DIY wavebox? If space permits (and you don't mind the bubbles), you might look into a DIY surge device (http://www.breedersregistry.org/Reprints/MFM/v11_aug96/simple_surge.htm). I'm not sure if a wavebox can compete with the water flow of a surge device. Daniel

Yay!

Does the skimmer include the gate valve?

Tired of the green?

Oh, I guess I should be waiting for Wednesday too!

That seems to happen to me a lot. I wish every coral grew like weeds.