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14g fw to sw Conversion


Gonzo59

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2 algae wafers a day. I figure I can get by with one but with 3 hermits 4 mollies and caulerpa feeding and zero algae, I thought 2 was sufficient... There is normally some wafer laying around after but not when I feed again.

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If the fish are not showing stress, I would not worry with the water change. I agree with Dennis, you are feeding too much. Also, the concept of feeding hermit crabs is somewhat skewed. They are there to clean up the mess, not to make more mess. There should never be food left after a minute or two at the most.

PS. IMO, you should remove the hermits until your tank has a need for them.

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To better explain my point, I consider high ammonia a mess, even though you can't see it. The fish will always act hungry. You are in control of nutrient input to the tank. Ammonia in high concentrations is poison.

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Just did a 25% water change. Should have vacuumed it out due to all the detritus that was thrown into the suspension when I replace the water but just used a one gallon jug instead... You live and learn I guess.

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The reason I suggest not cleaning the sand is because you still want poop to break down into amonia so your tank finishes cycling. But with fish in there you need to keep the ammonia down low enough to not kill you fish. Water changes will slow down the cycle, vacuuming the substrate will slow it more, but you're fish can't take high levels of ammonia and nitrites. So you're in a catch 22.

I'd just watch carefully and any time your fish show signs of stress pull water out to reduce ammonia levels. Toxic levels of ammonia is a complicated process, so I would go by fish reactions rather than some number. You are the best judge of your fish since we can't see them. But gasping at the surface sounds like stress to me. Red around the gills is a definately sign of ammonia poisoning.

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Great! I knew there was a reason I didn't vacuum ;) I don't mind having an extended cycle, I'm just happy to have life in the tank that I can observe. So I'll make sure to keep an eye on them and keep up with the water changes; although when I tested ammonia an hour or so after the water change it was still at 3 ppm. The fish seem happy though.

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While the EPA says, "dilution is the solution to pollution", I find the logic faulty as it does not address the source of pollution. In this case, it was you over feeding your tank. Allow the biofiltration to develop. Stop feeding your tank for several days and observe your ammonia concentration.

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Gonzo,

I am intrigued with the algae turf scrubber. Initially in our discussions, you expressed an interest in installing a light kit to grow Chaeto in a back compartment of your biocube. Are you interested in pursuing installation of ATS. It could be as easy as a panel similiar to your replaceable filter in the first compartment. I would continue using the rock rubble in the second compartment as a pod refugium. The ATS is also a pod haven but more importantly, it would not have the disadvantage of going sexual. I know you said that you liked the innuendo of going sexual, but I think that you shoud leave that to the warm body mammals.

Laissez la bonne temps roulee,

Patrick

PS. My French is not good enough to know what you printed in French the other day. Please enlighten all of us.

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Due to the advice from planeden and a bad *** piece of dry rock, gifted to me by subsea, I was inspired to change my setup. After a few days of aquascaping and a few collapses I came up with an arch that I am relatively happy with. It gives me access behind my scape, the fish a little more swimming room and is way more interesting to look at.

post-3525-0-65952000-1392776888.jpg

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No, they didn't have it at aquadome at the time so I used super glue... which is also why I had the collapse today. Tried epoxy today and it seems to be working well. We will see if it holds up to the test of time though...

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UPDATE: Ammonia on the downhill and nitrate almost maxed out on the tester at around 5 ppm. The cycle is well on its way!

Hopeful that I will wake up one day soon and ammonia will be at 0 ppm

PH is still around 7.8-8 should I be worried or is this normal?

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5ppm of nitrate should not max out the tester. Until the nitrates get above 5ppm, API test kits don't show nitrates. What is the ammonia reading? How are the macros doing for you? I noticed you were removing a pair of mollies. Why?

I like your new rock structure, but I don' remember gifting that to you.

Patrick

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You gave me the worm casting rock on the far left. I didn't have room for it with my past setup so I decided to incorporate it in an arch.

*ammonia was at 0 ppm

*nitrite was maxed out at 5 ppm

*Nitrate almost maxed out at 125

The macro is growing very steadily. Lots of new growth.

I am getting rid of the pair because I feel like my itty bitty 14g is a little crowded at the moment and they have served their purpose honorably. They have also taught me that it's probably more of a 2 fish tank (other than the 4 I was planning)

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I forgot about the colonial polyps/worm rock.

You have good sense with not overcrowding. When cycled properly, the biological filter can process much nutrients. However, the social order of fish getting along in a confined space is a more important criteria. In the case of mollies, that is not a consideration as they are sociable in groups. Not so with most reef fish.

Did you have an opportunity to look at ATS? Considering the ability of Caulerpa to uptake nutrients, I never bothered with them. While they do make good pod breeding, you have everything for that already with the rubble and bioballs.

Laissez la bonne temps roulee,

Patrick

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You should be feeding your fish abundantly at this time. The macros will absorb those nitrates, it is not required to water change. Come get you some pods to seed your rubble in the back compartments. No charge, but bring beer.

Patrick

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