Jump to content

14g fw to sw Conversion


Gonzo59

Recommended Posts

The cyno treatment needs to be proactive, not reactive. Go after the phosphate. Also, increase circulation in the tank.

If you have added nothing else to the tank and the ammonia has climbed from 1ppm to 2ppm in 24 hours, something is rotten in Denmark.

I suggest you come get some feather Caulerpa from me. It will uptake both nitrogen and phosphate. Use it to cycle your tank with a few mollies. Once your tank is cycled, you can remove it as a nutrient export mechanism.

Try it, you may like it.

Patrick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds great! Thank you.

I have been trying to stay away from chemicals and that sounds like a great answer to the problem. I have been very interested with the lagoon tank setup ever since you mentioned them on my welcome thread.

I have also read that turning off the lights for 72 hours can beat a cyano bloom... although I don't think this has reached bloom status yet. I don't think it would be a costly test since the only live organism I have is chaeto so far. What is your opinion on this approach?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Three tangs is only a pipe dream at this point... but someday I will have a system that can support that.

I have plenty of room for it on the substrate. Why does it get out of hand on rocks? I'm guessing the roots get into nooks that you cant reach and it keeps coming back? There could be worse things...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/

Phosphate could be coating your live rock or substrate as calcium phosphate, if it was subjected to supersaturation particularly with limewater as a method of alkalinity control in reef tanks. Randy Homes Farley is a scientist that is knowledgeable about reef systems. He can take you as deep as you want to go.

Patrick

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Met up with Subsea today and got some goodies!

1 pint of caulerpa

2 creamcycle mollies

2 black mollies

100 g ROWAphos

1 used pump (stronger than my original)

The mollies immediately attacked my cyano! It's almost completely gone. That coupled with the caulerpa and ROWAphos should nip that in the bud!

Take a look

post-3525-0-08676800-1392262324_thumb.jp

Edited by Gonzo59
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With respect to your question about macro going sexual, fast growing Caulerpa needs nutrients. It will give you several indicators before it goes sexual. When nutrients are used up, its growth rate will slow down by half or more, a week in advance. When macro is growing fast, the tips will be opaque/clear. When you see white spots, beware, it is getting ready to disintegrate. Normally, the event occurs after lights go out. Not sure if that is the sexual connotation.

The one time that I saw a precursor to Caulerpa Paspalpoides going sexual occurred during lights on. The stems had doubled in size and were oozing a white paste into the water. I immediately removed it from the 20G lagoon tank that it was in and put it into another tank with high nutrients. It cleared up in a few hours. In further discussion with my room mate, he acknowledged that it had stopped growing a week earlier and that white spots had showed up in various places several days later. He started feeding his tank more and we returned the Caulerpa to the tank with no problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Met up with Subsea today and got some goodies!

1 pint of caulerpa

2 creamcycle mollies

2 black mollies

100 g ROWAphos

1 used pump (stronger than my original)

The mollies immediately attacked my cyano! It's almost completely gone. That coupled with the caulerpa and ROWAphos should nip that in the bud!

Take a look

i

Outstanding about the mollies eating cyno. I have seen that once before with a pregnant female. Did you note if all mollies were grazing on the cyno or just the females?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Caulerpa looks good on the rock. In my experience with Caulerpa Paspaldoides, its holdfast are easy to remove. However, it will take over that rock. When it is in the substrate, the holdfast get very aggressive and go deep. The scientist tell me that the holdfast do not absorb nutrients from the substrate. I think that the macro knows more about absorbing nutrients than the scientist.

I hope that the macro serves you well.

Patrick

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll move the back piece to the substrate tomorrow, but I really like the look of it up front. I'll just make sure to contain it to that one area, even if it is more work ;)

The feather will grow up an out. Experiment with one cutting near the top. I have had it stay attached on one end and the rest grew out in open water swaying to the current. Consider it reverse bonsai.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With respect to your stocking plan from Post #1, I would leave Emerald Crabs and Hermit Crabs out of the mix. Both are voracious predators and when they are hungry, they will attack and eat anything, including each other.

For the janitors, I recommend Florida Drawf Cerith Snails and bristle worms. Both will reproduce in your system with their population density determined by the food supply. Amphipods and copepods fit into this category and are especially appropriate in your rubble refugium where they will feast on the biofilm which grows in the safe haven of your refugium. All of these janitors, release their spores into the bulk water of the tank which is a splendid diet for corals and other filter feeders. Yes, corals are filter feeders.

As your system matures, you may want to get diversity in filter feeders such as colorful sponges, feather dusters, NPS and LPS. They would all flourish in this system.

Patrick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...