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jebao wp 40


haze152

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im just curious if the GB is going to happen or not. need to know if I should just order some on ebay

<br /> <br /><br />i agree with you lol
<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />He said he's waiting on a response about price
<br /><br />Yeah but we've been at this long enough we should have a price breakdown list by now. I'd rather just pay a bit more on eBay and get them in a timely manner instead, comes a point when price savings aren't worth it to me:)
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im just curious if the GB is going to happen or not. need to know if I should just order some on ebay

<br /> <br /><br />i agree with you lol
<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />He said he's waiting on a response about price
<br /><br />Yeah but we've been at this long enough we should have a price breakdown list by now. I'd rather just pay a bit more on eBay and get them in a timely manner instead, comes a point when price savings aren't worth it to me:)

Mine got here in 2 days, hehe

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Yeah, I'm curious about the group buy, too. I'm getting a little buyer's remorse and haven't bought it yet. Too much longer and I'm going to get a tunze, JBJ, or some of the other recommended ones. It'd be like a sign from the Gods.

Has anyone heard back from the OP about their PMs on their order?

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A quick review:

I do like the power of the unit. 1 is more than enough to power my 135 and create a 2" wave on full blast. The size of it is comparable to a Tunze 6095 or the one right above it.

The downside is that the controller is limited in its ability to lower the power to the unit. It is on fill blast at all times, in every mode but the "Low," setting, which does nothing more than put the pump at 1/3 power and on stream mode. Another thing is, of course, the light sensor. It's a piece of junk. It works occasionally, but not all the time. Not only that, but it is extremely insensitive to the amount of light that trips it.

All in all I think it's a great pump, but the controllability needs adjusting. You can hook it up to a dimable power supply, but that might lower the life span of the motor. I would recommend this pump. It is an affordable way to get great flow for reef tanks.

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there is a DIY hack like brooks mentioned to put a PWM dimmer inline but again like he mentioned this might end up damaging the motor, I know it can and does damage inline duct fans and some other electronic motors because they do not get proper cooling and the low vibrations caused help seize motors.

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Brooks, in light of the dimmer being basically useless as well as the light sensor, could one just put the whole unit on a timer to where it kicks on when the lights come on, and then just shuts off entirely when it's dark? Assuming you have another powerhead in the tank so the water isn't totally still overnight

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Brooks, in light of the dimmer being basically useless as well as the light sensor, could one just put the whole unit on a timer to where it kicks on when the lights come on, and then just shuts off entirely when it's dark? Assuming you have another powerhead in the tank so the water isn't totally still overnight

I would think that would be perfect... in fact, that is what I'll try this evening.

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im just curious if the GB is going to happen or not. need to know if I should just order some on ebay

i agree with you lol

He said he's waiting on a response about price

yeah i knew what he ment....im ready...ive got another offer for something more expensive but id like to try this out first...dont want to lose out on both deals

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If low runs at 1/3 speed does it seem reasonable to assume that you can back it down to at least 1/3 without sacrificing motor life? I read that the new controllers were dimmable. Perhaps not.

I'm a little concerned that full throttle at 1300 gph, or whatever, will blast my water out of my 36" long tank. A 2" wave will mean a wet floor, and dry sump if I understand overflows. Avoiding a wave may mean a substrate cyclone.

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If low runs at 1/3 speed does it seem reasonable to assume that you can back it down to at least 1/3 without sacrificing motor life? I read that the new controllers were dimmable. Perhaps not.

I'm a little concerned that full throttle at 1300 gph, or whatever, will blast my water out of my 36" long tank. A 2" wave will mean a wet floor, and dry sump if I understand overflows. Avoiding a wave may mean a substrate cyclone.

Good point, Dennis! I hadn't thought of it that way. I don't know wiring or electricity much, but does lowering the voltage it thru an external source, lower the pump differently than the actual controller does?

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Good point, Dennis! I hadn't thought of it that way. I don't know wiring or electricity much, but does lowering the voltage it thru an external source, lower the pump differently than the actual controller does?

No idea. No sparks here.

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You guys are correct. The DC motor in the WP-40 has the ability to run at about 13v. I measured the controller output in H and L mode. H mode is around 23.78v. Therefore, you can ramp between the two high and low setpoints without damaging the motor or controller. However, do not go below 12v or else you may damage the controller or cause the motor to stall uncontrollably.

Please reference my Jebao mod thread for further details.

http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/26903-jebao-wp-40-speed-control-mod/

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I am thining running them in 1/3 mode to even be quieter. I figure it would be similar to the MP60, maybe a little more and I have a 180g tank...

The problem with 1/3 mode is that it can't be used in any of the wave mode functions. It's just a straight stream.

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Well, that bites then if you can run the modes in 1/3. So I guess it is wp40s then and not the 60s, I would go with...

If you reference post #89 in this thread it directs you to a simple mod where you can have speed control in any mode.

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Well, that bites then if you can run the modes in 1/3. So I guess it is wp40s then and not the 60s, I would go with...

From what I've read the wp-40s are quieter than the mp40s after an initial breaking cycle of 2 weeks or so. Brooks or ibnzmonkey may be able weigh in on that.

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