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Rimless 140g


olaggie01

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Got some pictures of the fish and acros that I added over the last week. Most of the acros are browned out, but I got some nice pieces. Also bought some from Tim (wizard) here on ARC. Talking with a vendor on R2R about buying a box of colonies and talking with Prof about drilling the back of the tank since I'm not happy with the overflow situation as it stands. I should be getting in my self cleaning head for my skimmer and skimmate locker from Avast Marine. Trying to figure out if I want to re-do my sump, but now that I have all the wires cleaned up, things look better, so who knows. A little uncomfortable with only 1 drain.

You can see the 2 of the 3 baby PJ cardinals and a couple of the anthias. I think I might have already lost of of the anthias though. sad.png

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More fish

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You can see 2 of the 3 yellow tangs here.

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This was one of the frags, called Pinky the Bear Acro. I really like this acro. Should color up nicely.

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You went bare bottom? Thought there was black sand in there from the other pics lol.

Yup, BB. I like the look of sand but can never keep it clean. This way I can crank up the flow as well. Gotta exercise those fish, don't want them to be lazy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gorgeous!

Nicole

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great pics! I wish I could take pictures like that of my coral.

Thank you Nicole and JT.

A photobox makes taking top down pictures very easy, plus it allows me to take pictures from above where the corals put their best face forward. :)

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After talking with my wife, I am now going to re-locate the sump/fuge from under the stand into a closet. I talked to my builder and he suggested going through the secondary closet (which I was planning) instead of outside the house.

My question is related to the route to take. Should I drop the lines down to the baseboards and run them along the floor and then up into the sump (cleanest version), or should I go half way down the wall and then horizontal to the sump and drop into the sump from above (most efficient I believe).

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On this picture, you can see the baseboards that I would run the pipes along. The 2nd option would be to run the pipes horizontally about 2' up the wall.

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Thanks James. So you don't think it will be a problem once I get into the closet to then go up 12-14" and into the sump? I assume the drop from the bottom of the tank to the baseboards will be sufficient to keep the water flowing using gravity.

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Pushing the water that far and the increase in elevation will effect your gallons/hour. You may or may not want to use a bigger return pump.

Look up the head loss chart for your pump and then guess at the reduction based on distance. Then make a good guess at what you feel comfortable with.

You are going to loose some flow based on distance, I doubt the elevation change and elbows will that much of an additional increase in reduced flow..... Very interesting situation and decision.

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Hi James. I have a dart on the return. My concern was on the drain to the sump. Will the drop in 4' be able to over come the distance to the top of the sump?

Tank

/

/ sump

/______________/

Instead of

Tank

/

/____________________/

/

sump

Hope my rudimentary drawing makes sense.

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Sorry I misunderstood, I think I get it now. As long as the top of the water level of the sump is below the bottom of the opening of the overflow.... I think gravity should push everything thru and the pump will be pushing a lot of water into the drain line.

Almost like a really long pee trap in a sink. It will probably slow the draining down a bit but I doubt it would cause any backup. You might consider putting a union or 2 in there to disassemble annually and check for deposits in the line. And if your "engineer safe" make 2 drain lines for some redundancy.

LOL I'm probably making this way moer complicated than it needs to be... Sorry I'm a Contractor!

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Sorry I misunderstood, I think I get it now. As long as the top of the water level of the sump is below the bottom of the opening of the overflow.... I think gravity should push everything thru and the pump will be pushing a lot of water into the drain line.

Almost like a really long pee trap in a sink. It will probably slow the draining down a bit but I doubt it would cause any backup. You might consider putting a union or 2 in there to disassemble annually and check for deposits in the line. And if your "engineer safe" make 2 drain lines for some redundancy.

LOL I'm probably making this way moer complicated than it needs to be... Sorry I'm a Contractor!

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I'm thinking about running 3 1" pipes, 2 for the drain and 1 for the return. I'd like to run a 1.5" for the return but I think that would be too big of a hole through the wall.

Thanks for the confirmation on the drains. Hopefully it will drain properly.

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I personally wouldn't run the pipes below the sump level. That way they will drain all the way when you kill the return pump. Just my .02c. Could paint the pipe to match the wall. Less bends in your drain the better. With drains being gravity fed any "effort" to push the water back up and into the sump would slow the return considerably IMO and then you may end up with more pump than drain. If your using 2 drains then that may not be a problem, but then its just more pipe you have to hide and greater risk of leaks.

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I know I'm a little behind but, did you end up using the Dr. Tims one and only? Or did you just sees the LR?

I have some but I didn't use it to cycle the tank. I add some each week just to refresh the bacteria, etc.

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I personally wouldn't run the pipes below the sump level. That way they will drain all the way when you kill the return pump. Just my .02c. Could paint the pipe to match the wall. Less bends in your drain the better. With drains being gravity fed any "effort" to push the water back up and into the sump would slow the return considerably IMO and then you may end up with more pump than drain. If your using 2 drains then that may not be a problem, but then its just more pipe you have to hide and greater risk of leaks.

Thanks for the input Derrick. I drilled the holes this afternoon and didn't go as far down the wall as I would have after looking at the pictures of the house. I will paint the PVC and even build a small box over the exposed PVC in the room to try and hide it. I will have 2 x 1" drains on the new setup and a 1.5" return. I'm going to use the same dart as a return but I have a snapper if the dart does not produce enough flow. The pump will run the reactors, fuge and frag tank as well as the return to the display tank.

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This hobby is like the never ending story. Just keeps evolving lol. I run one pump for my whole setup. I know that seems odd with no redundancy but the more pumps, valves, and fittings, the more chance of a leak. I hate mopping.....especially SW. Dart should be sufficient as long as your returns can handle it. Im of the opinion though that a slower flow in the sump equates to better filtration. I like a slower turn over rate. A lot of people like to use the max gph that their return will handle but seems in most cases that returns can handle twice as much as really needed for a given system. I run 1190gph for two reactors, a chiller, and return. If I close the ball valve feeding my reactors my tank will overflow as the return cant keep up. Gen X pump has some serious head on it...think its like 23' capable or so.

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Got some work done on the pipe work and cleaned out the closet a bit. I'm still searching for a sump and will build the water storage shelves this weekend along with adding a few electrical outlets to the closet and perhaps a bathroom fan. I need to get this cleaned up by the 30th when my wife is having a baby shower at the house and we are out of town next weekend so it's go time. I also placed an order for 15 SPS colonies from Battlecorals so I need to re-aquascape today and try to make some more room in the display.

Trying to clean up this mess:

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I drilled the wall for 2 x 1" drains and have 1 more hole to drill for the 1.5" return. I have punched throug the wall from the linen closet into the walk in closet and now I need to run the plumbing and figure out how to hide it once I get into the office. These pipes will be leaved once I connect everything.

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One more hole to go:

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Unfortunately, after looking at my house plans, we had a drain from the hot water heater that was placed right where I wanted to run my pipes so I opted to detour a bit.

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And here is the other side of the walk in closet:

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I have measured the current sump / fuge and I think that it will make a nice frag tank and fuge tank on top of my old 120g stand. Underneath will be the sump and to the left will be my water storage "tree".

Here is my old 120g stand and SW water storage container. I have an identical version for FW that sat next to the SW container. In the new stand, the FW container will be below the SW container.

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And here is the other side of the closet. On the far left side, is my breaker panel so I'll add a new breaker and install some extra outlets.

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