Jump to content

Rimless 140g


olaggie01

Recommended Posts

I just read your entire build thread. Amazing! You have some amazing coral. And lastly, you sir are a great photographer.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Thanks Manny. I have a long way to become a great photographer, but I'm alright. Hoping to get a video or two uploaded today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yikes! My power hasn't gone out for more than 5 mins ever since I bought this house almost 5 years ago! Maybe it's time to move back into the city bud!

Hopefully the power comes back on soon for you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yikes! My power hasn't gone out for more than 5 mins ever since I bought this house almost 5 years ago! Maybe it's time to move back into the city bud!

Hopefully the power comes back on soon for you!

That was not a typical storm though. Lots of lightening, etc. Ended up without power for 70 min. Tank did fine though. I have my DT powerheads hooked up to a UPS and they did fine. No issues other than keeping me awake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took some par measurements today. Very good numbers from the ATi fixture (not surprising though)

Par readings (100% on T5s and LEDs)

All powerheads were turned off

ATi Hybrid Powermodule 48” 8 Ts / 3 75w LEDs

3 LEDs (LEDs set to blue / aqua blue in ATi software)

48” T5s running

B+

B+

Coral Plus

B+

LED

B+

Coral Plus

B+

B+

Measurements

Surface in center:

T5: 83 (415 par)

LEDs: 105 (630 par)

All: 191 (1050 par)

8” below water line, center of tank

T5: 83 (415 par)

All: 143 (786 par)

10” below water line, off center below T5s

T5: 64 (320 par)

All: 97 (533 par)

15” below water line, off center below T5s

LEDs: 20 (120 par)

All: 66 (363 par)

10” below water line, front of tank

T5s: 45 (225 par)

All: 68 (374 par)

15” below water line, front of tank

LEDs: 15 (90 par)

All: 55 (302 par)

I'll try and add these numbers to a fancy picture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That pictures makes it much easier to visualize all that data.

That's very interesting about the fixture's par readings. It is in line with how I want to eventually run my system. Running a standard par value of 300-400 most of the day in the mid-level and 150-300 in the sand. Then for about 3-4 hours a day, have a more intense time period of 400-700 in the mid-level to aid in development of the protective color pigments in the SPS corals. Basically blast them to produce the pigments but only for a short-time per day so that you don't overwhelm them to the point of it being detrimental.

Interesting results bud. Thanks for sharing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That pictures makes it much easier to visualize all that data.

That's very interesting about the fixture's par readings. It is in line with how I want to eventually run my system. Running a standard par value of 300-400 most of the day in the mid-level and 150-300 in the sand. Then for about 3-4 hours a day, have a more intense time period of 400-700 in the mid-level to aid in development of the protective color pigments in the SPS corals. Basically blast them to produce the pigments but only for a short-time per day so that you don't overwhelm them to the point of it being detrimental.

Interesting results bud. Thanks for sharing.

Yeah, pictures are always good. I'll get a video next time.

I was hoping to get a screen shot of my current lighting schedule, but my PC wouldn't cooperate. Essentially, I am running my T5s for 5 hrs full (ramp from 0-100% is approx 90 min) and the LEDs are at 65% for 10 hours, ramp from 0-100% over 2 hrs.

I may end up changing my lighting schedule to mimic what you are saying Ty. I could run a similar lighting schedule that I'm running now, but ramp up the LEDs for 2 hrs at 100% and change the spectrum to a whiter light. That way the corals get a blast of light for a short time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, but if your SPS start putting everyone's to shame, I'm going to have to ask for my name to be etched in your live rock as a shout-out to my SPS "spectacularly awesome coloration scheme" I devised. I may have stolen it from mother nature but really, who's keeping tabs here.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

But remember lighting is only part of the equation. How about you come up with a "spectacularly awesome flow pattern" or a "spectacularly awesome feeding schedule"?

It will be interesting to find out the results of the frag tank. I'm betting it is quite a bit lower, hence the browning of the corals.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll start bottling some of my RO water and sell it as "Ty's spectacularly awesome RO water". It'll take spaghetti stains right out of a shirt and even cures blindness!

I bet you're right about the frag tank. It must be pretty low though to cause STN. I used a clip-on MH over my frag tank and everything slowly started STN'ING to and my par was like 50-75. Might as well shine a flashlight on them!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. Here are some pictures / results from the frag tank today. I think these numbers confirm my suspicion that I don't have enough light on the frag tank. I forgot to get the lamps, but I'll do that in the AM.

Light fixture: ATi Sunpower 6x24w at 11" off the surface of the water. Frags are 7" below the surface of the water and 18" total distance.

The numbers on top are the numbers at the surface, directly under the T5s. Next numbers are taken at the frag rack. I was unable to get a center of the frag rack figure as it is crammed with frags and I didn't want to tick anything off with a huge par probe.

I will probably end up lowering the fixture over the next few weeks until it is 5-7" off the surface of the water. Leaving my frags at 12" below the light. I will lower it over the weekend to determine where I need to be to get 3-400 at the frag rack.

frag_tank_may_zps1f4365ad.jpg

Here are some pictures of the frags. These 3 pics are pretty bad but you can see that the color is off (too brown) and I'm getting some STN on a few of the frags. Perhaps the other issue is that I'm used to the LED fluorescence from the main tank. I've thought about adding a 18-24" strip of RB LEDs to see if that helps. It would certainly help the color.

IMG_1825_zps2dcfd54f.jpg

IMG_1826_zps1614e7dd.jpg

IMG_1827_zpsd9219eab.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pictures look great! My input is if you are around 200-300, I'd be surprised if they are STN'ing due to not enough light. At worst, they would just darken in color but most SPS will grow in that just fine and look great. My old tank was mostly all kept around 300 with only a couple pieces in par higher than that.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pictures look great! My input is if you are around 200-300, I'd be surprised if they are STN'ing due to not enough light. At worst, they would just darken in color but most SPS will grow in that just fine and look great. My old tank was mostly all kept around 300 with only a couple pieces in par higher than that.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

True, I think corals (SPS) can survive and thrive at lower par levels, but with the higher par levels that I have seen in the DT, I was hoping to mimic that in the frag tank, especially when I transfer the corals over there during the build up of the 360.

I'm thinking about adding a pair of par38 bulbs (to get the fluorescence) and lowering the fixture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Pictures look great! My input is if you are around 200-300, I'd be surprised if they are STN'ing due to not enough light. At worst, they would just darken in color but most SPS will grow in that just fine and look great. My old tank was mostly all kept around 300 with only a couple pieces in par higher than that.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

After letting the corals settle down in the frag tank for a while, I think you are right. They are darker than they should be but the STN has stopped in most cases. I'm still going to lower the fixture a few inches over the next few weeks and see if that helps with the color. I have 2 par 38 blue LEDs that I'm going to add as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...