mFrame

Yes, it most definitely has a center brace, and is fairly wide. Jake said to be sure to keep it clean to prevent blocking light. And in an effort to re-jack my thread... any recommendations on fans for the canopy? It will be completely enclosed so I know I will want probably 2-3 fans on left and ride sides pulling air in, and plan to put 2-4 on top pushing air out. I have an Aquacontroller III on the way, but am open to suggestions on what fans to use and a guess on cost. Can I just use computer case fans?

Consensus last time I asked was that they're very good saltwaterfish.com

So with my (2) 250 MH both running 14,000K Hamilton, I'm thinking that I'll do (2) 48" T5 for actinic. I have an icecap 660 harness and ballast. I'm a bit unclear on what wattage bulbs to run and if the ballast and harness just adjust to power whatever I put in? A comment I read said that the icecap overdrives 55w 48" bulbs at 85 watts. What actinic bulbs would be best?

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We use home team as well, and just got a discount coupon for new customers (I think it gives us some kind of referral as well). Let me know if you need a pest service and I'll forward it

We actually hope to do better than pictures, Reef_Pug is going to take videos of the whole assembly. I originally purchased the Aqueon 90 with offset overflow from RCA at the b-day bash. Once I got it home, however, I found that it was just too large fore the spot in the dining room. At that point we decided to use the tank as a room divider peninsula between the breakfast nook and living room. The offset overflow blocked too much of the view so we decided to swap it. I absolutely loved the tank though, construction seemed top notch and I hated returning it. After that the goal was to get a corner overflow and I was going to go with the Marineland. Supply issues prevented immediate pickup, and your previous mail to me about the DSA had stuck in my head, so I asked Jake if he could get it. He said yes, and it was here days later. There was a small difference in pricing but I totally feel like the quality of the DSA is worth it. The tank itself is much heavier than the aqueon. I'm not sure exactly where the difference is, but the walls seem much thicker and the glass cross members at the top definitely add some weight as well. I got one with clear caulk on the corners, and it looks awesome. Keep us updated on your build as well, it'll be interesting to see how closely matched the two "twin" tanks end up.

Maybe he meant past tense, you know, he used to swum when he earned it. Guess that doesn't really work either....

2nds on the dendro and hawk if either fall through. How large is the christmas tree?

I love my coral banded, but he's a jerk and he rules the tank (not to mention he's HUGE). My watchmen goby lives at the top of the tank behind my ATO because of him.

Check this thread for a discussion of #2 Plumbing and Sump design by Eckreef, I flagged it at the time and have been using it to plan my design. Like you I ended up getting the DSA 90g with corner overflow. We're setting mine up this weekend. I went with thread/thread for both 1" bulkheads. I like being able to replace the plumbing without cutting, though it shouldn't be a huge deal either way. Unions are only about $4 so are probably worth it. I'm using a Durso setup, and the link that I'm using recommends oversiziing the Durso to 1 1/4" before threading into the 1" bulkhead with a reducer. For my return I'm going to use flexible 1" line, so it's easy enough to put a threaded 1" adapter with the flexible line attached with a hose clamp. That makes for easy replacement and the flexible line should make setup easier. Durso I'm using a mag 9.5 as my sump pump so I have a 1" T and a ball valve on the return to control flow and redirect water back to the sump. I can use the T to feed my turf scrubber. According to the above post you don't need a ball valve on the drain since you can always just turn the pump off and then no water will flow from the drain. For my return (same as yours with the corner overflow) I bought a 1" to 3/4" adapter so that I can use loc-line. I have a loc-line Y and (3) 6" loc-line flexible tubes (all 3/4"). I will run one close to the corner, and connect the other two to give me a 12" reach to run toward the other side. Jake at RCA said most people don't do this for esthetics, but i told him i plan to snake it over the water level and then back down so that you can't see 12" of loc-line in the tank. I expect that the mag will be more than strong enough to do this and the ball valve will still allow me to control flow. All that said I'm open to advice as well since we both have the same configuration going in and I haven't constructed anything yet. Anyone else have feedback?

Sweet, freebies are awesome! In the last week I've found a tons of mini feather dusters all over the underside of my live rock.

I vote for pug in a fish suit wearing a dress

Looks like the typical browish/flesh outer, bright green interior. I haven't seen much of a variety of them here locally. I've got two and they're definitely tied with my dendros as favorites.

PM'd (correction, tried but your mailbox is full) Please contact me

Welcome! Sorry to hear about your troubles starting up, but it does get easier (and then more complicated). The thing I've learned is to treat it as a science. Everything is a variable, and the more variables you change at a time the more uncertain you are about what is causing what. So do this, pick one thing to focus on and change it. Then wait, see what happens, give it time to have an affect. Then move on to the next one. IMO, with that few fish and corals you don't need to be dosing anything. If you're doing regular water changes with a good salt mix then the water change will take care of any trace elements you need. You just don't have anything in your tank yet that is really consuming these. That will change as you add more life to your tank. Depending on what you want to keep, start with some simple, hardy fish and corals and slowly increase the load. Green Star Polyps (GSP) are cheap, hardy, and pretty to look at. You can find a few people selling them on here for $5 or so. Mushrooms are good as well. Just make sure you don't put either directly on your live rock or they can grow out of control, so put them on a small piece of rock on your sand as an "island". Xenia and some of the leathers are also generally good starters. When you introduce new corals start with them on the sand bed furthest from the light, see how they do. If you want them higher in the tank then slowly raise them over weeks so that they can acclimate. So what I would do: Stop dosing anything Cut back on feeding to at most 1x per day (until you add more life you're just feeding it into your skimmer) Remove the filter Bring your salinity up to 1.025 Continue doing 5-10g water changes weekly. Start logging your water conditions daily. Once they stabilize, log every other day, weekly, etc. This will get you to a good baseline where your tank is stable. Slowly add life. Cleaner crews (hermits, snails) are a good start and will help condition your tank. Next I'd add some mushrooms or GSP. If all goes well, maybe try another fish. Let us know how things progress,

Wow, those are gorgeous. I'd take some if they had frags of em

Threadjack Here are two pics of them in my tank to maybe help identify them: Wow, his pics look SOOOO much better than mine.

Look like clove polyps to me, they come in all kinds of colors various cloves

Nice to see em adding some color to your tank. Looks like the zoas are opening up nicely for you! It's probably because they were right next to some of austinaquaman's hammers in my tank. Not sure if those are technically watermelons (I bought them unidentified), but I'm sure others on here will let you know the correct nomenclature if that is incorrect.

http://www.valuemags.com/freeoffer/freeoffer.asp?offer=sportdiver.asp

Got my goby from them and he's still doing well.

Depends on what it's made of if you can sand and stain, but worst case you can paint it a different color (kilz and paint will cover black).

Welcome to all three of you, great to have more in the addiction...er...hobby. Definitely check with Prof, he can set you up with just about everything you need.

I ended up modifying and swapping some of the pieces used for installation, I'll post a final parts list, cost, and picture of the unit with a plug on it. Hope this gives some of you ideas....

Progress continues: decided I'd need a 3rd light: drain hole: screen assembly: attached (use slip connections to lid for easy removal and cleaning) all finished but the wiring: