Kkiel02

Here are some pics but my point and shoot just doesnt do it justice. It has a green base with bright orange tentacles and yellow tips. On a side note my clowns started hosting my hammers even though they have 6 different bubble tips to choose from. I thought with all the different color combos they would pick one but oh well at least they wont stress out the bta's when they split. Also I took the picture with my rose in the picture to show you just how orange it is. It is on the left and not all the way out at the time of picture.

Just got this bad boy in today. I was hoping they didnt photoshop it at all but the colors were spot on. Also was worried about the cold weather but it came in looking fairly good. https://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productdetailcc.asp?did=11&cid=354&pid=4931

She has a thread on reef central. 27 clownfish 27 months is what its called. Its a very nice tank.

The sixline tend to be agressive with the fairy and flasher wrasses so if you plan on going sixline that will narrow down your wrasse options later on. I am partial to the flashers myself blue flasher wrasse will be my next wrasse purchase unless I can find another leopard which I would grab.

These arent the reviews I expected. After the previews, it looked lilke an expensive flop but now Ive heard from a couple people that it was better than expected. 3d Imax does sound appealing.

These don't happen to be the orange tipped gbta would they?

I'm footlong kiel online. Hit me up if you wanna run some mw 2.

I would have hooked you up but my email has just been stopped. Graduated in august. Hope you find someone.

+1 for prof. He has some nice rock and great prices.

Mine did and most tanks do but it is much quicker. I had ammonia the first couple days then nitrites for two days then was good to go with the levels anyway. Also had a buddy just set up a bc 29 his did the same. Also my parents 55 gallon did almost he same but nitrites were gone a little faster. All these tanks were set up the same way as I talked about. Everyone is going to have different ways of doing this. It's like asking people what's the best way to filter a tank. You will get tons of different answers from different people.

I agree/disagree I would buy as much live rock in the beginning of setting up a tank. When I upgrade to a larger tank like my 180 I hit up prof for his dead rock. This is why and how. In the beginning I bought live rock from multiple places/people on the same day. This is because I would get the widest amount of diversity. The reason I add it at the beginning is because the nitrogen cycle will kill off the pest while the most the bacteria will survive. Once I then had pest free live rock with my 65 gallon I wanted the tang tank(180) so instead of risking pests I bought all dead rock and let the live rock seed the dead. I know I only have a few years experience but this has been the best biosecurityway while still giving me the diversity. Ps I always qt fish and dip my corals to protect me that way.

Use carbon quick

Yeah we did something like this in soil science 1. It's was cool to see how everything would layer itself out. I think we used this to figure out soil types but it's been a few years and my memory is not what it used to be. LOL

If you are having trouble with plants growing I would recommend a soil test. Just take your soil to an extension agent and they ought to be able to do the rest. Even if aren't having trouble growing plants it is still a good idea to see where your soil stands. Rain or irrigation will leach out many nutrients and cause a acidic soil over time.

Are they all green? Looks like one might be blue in the picture.

I went to tmac and this is where I go most of the info I posted earlier. I wish I could have talked a little more about this with him. I don't know if you went to pings presentation on fuges but this is where he talked about testing with the dyes to see how quickly water would got through the dsb with different flows. The powerhead could work but then the flow in the fuge also increases. Don't get me wrong I think that it is a good idea I'm just saying that if it could be incorporated in the sump(higher flow) I think it would maximize efficiency of the dsb. I plan on doing a rubble/macro fuge and a dsb in the sump with my 180 if the sump will allow it. If not maybe a rdsb. But either way I will keep y'all posted on how it works out.

Leds have always interested me. I am gonna be anxiously watchin to see how this turns out. Maybe hero lights could send a bulb to compare. Anyways this would be nice as eventually(as they produce different colors) you could mix and match as many people do with t5s now.

I agree with all said above but the placement of the deep sand bed. I have always been told that dsb should have high flow to get more water through the anerobic regions to help denitrify and all that good stuff. In my new tank I plan to put the dsb in the sump and go bb or no sand in the fuge. My fuge will have such a slow flow going through it that a dsb would not work to it's full potential.

Bump I'm gonna keep one fixture for my new fuge. I will be in Austin Monday.

Ok finally settled in the new house and these are back up for sale!

Yeah my newest bta (been in the tank about a month) is pretty close to it. Same rock just around a corner. I added carbon yesterday but he didn't make it. It's kind of amazing how anemones can be so hardy but also so sensitive at the same time. Yeah the other thing that kind of confused me was the rapid decline of this anemone. When I left he was looking good and spread way out. Then within two days he just withered away. On a better note though I got my t5s yesterday!

Yeah I just put the camera battery on the charger

He actually attached to the glass but has his mouth wide open at this point. He has been deflated for a day now. Im just suprised it attached as it is looking bad. I am going to be moving here in about a month so I set up a 55 gallon at my mom's to hold everything during the move, so if it starts looking any better I will take it over there to reduce the chance of chemical warfare. Oh yeah and it wont eat at this point as its mouth is wide open and its insides, well arent inside anymore.

Well after being away a day and a half I came back to my purple with green tipped bta gaping open. All the others were fine(rose and green with purple tips) I checked the parameters and verything was in check. Don't really know what went wrong. It was about 8 inches across and been in there about 2 months now. It was also the largest of the three by alot. Just sad as this was the hosting anemone for my clowns. I was thinking maybe they got a little rough or a chemical warfare broke out. Well that sucked, it's in my 10gallon right now but I doubt it has a chance at this point.

I disagree about hippos being harder to keep. Unless I am just very lucky. I have a tiny tiny hippo(nickle size when bought now about an inch and a half), a purple and a sailfin. All these have had a small battle with ick when first introduced but I haven't lost any. The purple was a little longer battle but I believe that Achilles would have to be higher than the hippo. I also have come to realization though that if my tangs are eating, I don't remove them from the tank. I think this only stresses them more etc. Maybe I have just been lucky with my tangs but I would say my hippo is pretty ich resistant. Anway I would say my purple is a little more suspetible to ich than my hippo. Ps I also qt for about a week, which I know isn't long as it should be but my qt is only 10gallon and I feel like I am cramping their style. LOL gonna try a goldrim or Achilles next when I get my large tank. Prolly goldrim at this point though. Wow sorry I got real off topic there.