bimmerzs

Hi, Do you know the wavelength of the led's you bought. Choosing any "blue" led light to make your coral's "look" good does not necessarily mean they are of benefit to your coral's. You need "blue light" with a predominant peak wavelength of 445nm which not only produces visually stunning colors, but it's the wavelength found in nature which helps to stimulate growth. Choosing a light source that incorporates a broad spectrum is of greater benefit to the coral's than choosing something that just looks appealing to our eye's. Cheers,

Looking for a frag of the mystic sunset monti. Cheers,

Have you looked at stevesleds.com? Cheers,

This is my recommendation. http://reefbreeders.com/led_fixtures.html Cheers,

I use a GHL doser and BRS alk/ca/mg solution's. I also run biopellet's on my cube. Cheers,

Maybe 3 years old, not sure of the pumps age.

Several reason's really. 1. I really prefer running seperate reactors off of a manifold. 2. It's size creates volumn conflict's in my current setup.

BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor – Dual with MJ1200 Pump for $60. Will trade for high end zoas/palys or select sps frags. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-gfo-carbon-reactor-dual.html

I meant to say whelk's above, whelk's resemble nassarius s but have a painted snout. Once something is on the way out you will find pretty much everything taking advantage of a free meal so finding something snacking does not mean that particular animal is the culprit. Here's a pic of a whelk snail. http://www.melevsreef.com/id/whelk.html Cheers,

Whatever route you take make sure to buy quality equipment, I like to say "do it right or don't do it at all. Quality does not mean the latest and greatest or most expensive, that is where research comes in. A tank in the 60G to 90G is a lot more forgiving to a newbie learning about water chemistry and how the elements interact and affect each other. A ph monitor really will show you what a test kit can't on how adding certain thing's influence. A ro/di unit ensures you are putting in good water, an auto top-off helps with the all important stability aspect as does a refractometer. Read, read and read some more before jumping in. Cheers,

Looks like a goner. Any whelk snail's evident in the area?

Running carbon will remove any smell. Any chance that your new water cycled on you before you got a chance to use it or was it just mixed? Maybe check out those canister filters. I would mix up more fresh saltwater just to have in case it's needed. Have you checked your parameters yet...including ammonia and nitrites? Cheers,

Looks really nice. Cheers,

You can try the wrapping paper container's at the container store. They hold about 13 gallon's from what I remember however you may be able to find similar ones that are thinner if need be, especially around this time of the year. http://tinyurl.com/cmgfwnb Cheers,

Hi, Can I pickup one of the $15 milli frags from pic #6? Cheers,

Here's a bit more informtion from an online poster concerning the two methods of skimming. I usually prefer to dry skim however, I find that sometimes wet skimming is necessry depending on what I'm doing with my tank. Above quotes taken from this link. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/wet-skimming-vs-dry-skimming-49194.html Cheers,

Nice! Cheers,

That looks good. Cheers,

Plane down the entire top surface until it is all level. Marineland will most likely not warranty this if it broke due to stress caused by a stand you built, insurance company could also reject any claim caused directly by your tank leaking. Cheers,

If it's 1" - 2" I would do the filter sock idea. Before starting I would have a bottle of either some Dr.Tim's nitrifying bacteria or Fritz product(not a fan of fritz), enough water for a 50% water change, poly filter, cheap ammonia alert strip and a bottle of prime on hand. Start running polyfilter, suck out all of the sand returning the water back to the sump(so you don't remove more SW than you have onhand), perform 50% WC, add the Dr. Tim's and a bit of prime then turn the skimmer back on. I would do a normal waterchange in a couple of day's and check the poly filter color. Definately do this at least a week before leaving out of town and make sure that whoever is watching your tank, knows what they are doing. Cheers,

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Howdy and welcome. Cheers,

Keep in mind that if you get these from a factory you are up a creek if something goes wrong. Even if they want to help, you will still pay for shipping + insurance there and back. The color spectrum's represented by these are quite good, the price is outstanding, they at least have namebrand led's(less bin data) and someone in the US believes they are worthy of a 2yr warranty, to me that alone is worth the $40 you save by buying direct as-is. As always....YMMV Cheers,

Depending on his tank size and budget he can do either one of these. http://www.reefbreed...d_fixtures.html Or he can get their "value" unit and use digital timer's...http://www.reefbreed...d_fixtures.html Cheers,

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