Robb in Austin

Good for you and yours Mike!

Bubble coral.

+3, or whatever, for Red Sea Coral Pro

Nice grab Andrew!

Prof's locale would be great for pick up. We can arrange a impromptu cigars/scotch/reefin'/BRS pick up!

Me too. Dave/Mark, are we all together on shipping? How do we work this?

FWIW, it's the recommended 'brand' of DIY two part on Reef Central.

How about some details on the beast? Are you trying to make up for the Prius (or whatever it was you had/have)? Why yellow? New/used? Auto or stick? Touring or Sport? Can we all get a ride? If we pony up can we all drive it? How do you like it so far? Have you tried wedging a baby seat in that rear end yet?

http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com/ http://www.reefcentr...83#post15739583 Good info on the first regarding PAR readings and color comparisons. Dig through the other when you have some spare time, someone might have asked something similar. Do you think you need more red, blue, or white?

Count me in.

Nice! Color me green.

I too was hesitant to even open the thread. Kinda glad I did though as it is thought provoking. Thanks Pat. Off to the fridge for another brewski whilst waiting for my RODI to crank out another 5 or 6 gallons. Gonna be up late.

Great pic Bob!

I do rock then sand.

I've read anywhere from 6 months to 18 months. I just replaced two of mine that burnt out after ~18months. I don't know that I could see any difference in brightness, but I used a different brand lamp so it's not directly comparable. I would stay away from the Current brand lamps as they don't put out much PAR. Stick with Giesemann, ATI, KZ, GE, or UVL. Aquatek has the G-mann and some KZ in stock. I've not found anyone else stocking T5 lamps in town. I order mine from DIYreef and have always gotten good prices and great service. Reekgeek is another on line vendor with a great reputation. See here for more info: http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com/ and their thread on RC if you have 4009823 hours to read through it all; http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1677547

Used GE Silicone 1. Waited 48-72hrs before the first try, ~16 the second. Yes, sticking to the glass seems to be the issue. I didn't prep the glass really so that may be the issue. Thanks Mike! My only concern with leaking is having 1 water level between fuge/skimmer/return which, to my mind, defeats the purpose of having different chambers. I'll try again and see what happens.

Instead of contaminating my build thread I thought I'd make a post here. My 30g glass sump, with acrylic baffles, leaks under two of the baffles. I tried adding more silicone in an attempt to fix the problem. No go. So my dilemma is how to fix it. I scraped off the bottom seam on the offending baffles. Do I reseal or pull the acrylic and replace them with glass? Looking for some help here peeps!

First water test of the sump=fail. Water ran under the fuge baffle and under the first bubble trap baffle. I just applied more silicone and will try again tomorrow. If it still fails, I might rip out the acrylic and get some glass baffles.

+2 to 12hrs. I also use the actinic(or what's close in my tank) as sunrise/set lamps. I generally don't turn any light on unitl 9-11am. I have a large window,~8ft from my tank, that faces southeasterly and I use the natural sunlight to wake everyone up. My wife likes to turn everything on first thing after she gets up, usually around 8-9, but I'm not home those days so I can't control it.

Tips for in tank shots of corals: 1) Turn off your pumps. 2) Get a tripod, even a Walmart cheapy. 3) Shoot straight through the glass. Any angle will cause diffraction. 4) Set your white balance. I used a Styrofoam plate. Check the manual on how do do it exactly. 5) Put it in manual. Set it to manual focus. Set your aperture to the low #(your depth of field will be shallow though), shutter speed low(corals don't move with the pumps off), ISO around 400-800, fire away. Use your self timer(unless you have the remote shutter release) to reduce vibration. Look at the histogram on the camera for exposure guidance. You could also try putting it in macro mode as a start. Any auto mode on the camera will be less than ideal. Edit: Looks like Dave beat me to it! Speaking of Dave: perhaps having Jennifer(princer7) give a photo how to at one of the sponsor's, or member's house, would be a great meeting. She helped me immensely!

I finally got started on setting up the 75g this month. I acquired just about everything I needed in March-May, but I got into Texas Tech University Health Science Center Anita Thigpen Perry School of Nursing's(how's that for a mouth full?) RN-BSN program that started at the end of May so building it got put on hold until the break. A little background for those who didn't read my blog. We broke down a few FW tanks and got a new 75g from RCA. I had Dave(aka prof) drill it and build a Calfo style overflow for me. I plan on using BeanAnimal's Silent and Failsafe Overflow as outlined here: http://reefcentral.c...readid=1310585. Pics of the 75: Seeing how it will look Calfo Calfo different angle After butchering a few pieces of acrylic I had Dave properly cut them and finally built my sump out of an old 30g I picked up off Craigslist. Some before and after pics: 30g marked for baffle placement Acrylic and plans Sump ready to go I cut the teeth for the fuge baffle after practicing on the butcher job scraps: I plan to water test the sump in the am and start plumbing(if everything goes right) Tuesday. I'll post updates/pics as things roll along. Other equipment: Tunze 9010 skimmer(on the 58g now) Aquactinics TX5 with all ATI bulbs(Blue + x2, True Actinic x2, Aquablue) Vortech MP40W Koralia 2 or 3 if needed Eheim 1260 for return CF flood light, 6500K, from Lowes for fuge light all plumbing is 1.25" on drain side

You can generate a wave a number of ways: wavebox(see Tunze), powerheads on a timer/driver(see Koralia or Vortech), or a surge device. Google all of the above for more details. Dunno about plankton.

Go back and re-read the first paragraph.

My BFS unit puts out 0 TDS and it's a 4 stage unit. From all the research I did, there is not really a need for anything more than that. More wont hurt but....

I wouldn't have 'recognized' you with the user name though.