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Posts posted by AquaJohn
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it depends on the drivers you have most react to slowly to act like lightning strikes
and all they do is scare your fish anyways err well and look cool and make you smile.
I have seen a set of instructions to do it on RC's neptune systems forum in there sponsors section.
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I would say unless I get most of the pcs sold seperatly I am not gona start parting it out for a few weeks.
Priority will go to people wanting multiple pcs.
but if you want somthing feel free to drop me a PM with an offer. And i will start a list
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I changed to a Apex so no longer need this RKL I had on my tank.
It comes with
Head Unit
2- 4outlet plugs
rkl Itemp probe
Sid (used to update firmware on all components)
SL1 with PH probe and 2 float switch conectors
ALC With 1 light connector (used to control advanced lighting systems)and 2 moon lights included
HUB (allows you to connect 5 things to one box and not just daisy chain them.
Y-splitter thing used to connect the SID and moduals to the headunit.
All the phone cords to connect all units and one extra. One is there long cable.
Everything works but it is used. I purchased it about a 6 months ago used off of ebay with A LED kit.
I have 7 meanwell drivers and to use the ALC with it would take building a special addapter to get it to run all of them and I did not trust my electrical skills to build it without frying the rkl and my lights so I gave up and just used the rapid led controler for the lights. They say the ALC will push 4 meanwells with its 2 outputs.
$300 obo. Will only hold with Paypal. I can ship it for an additional 10 bucks to cover postage. Willing to meet at RCA or somewhere in that area on a Friday or Sat around noon or we can work something else out. I live in Burnet Tx so its like 1 1/2 hour drive to Austin.
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you have some cool looking stuff wish it was around when I started my tank.
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Chrome
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I have a pm redline 175 that I was using on my 110g listed in the forsale section at $150.
I upgraded to a bigger skimmer because my tank is getting bigger soon .
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Well I hope so I replaced my RKL with there led light control just for that reason lol. I did a lot of research and from what I got out of it is you should be able to go from 10% to 100% with the drivers I have and with other drivers you should be able to go from 1% to 100%
The ELN60 48D's from what I have read take at least 10% or 1V to get them to fire.. I had them on the rapid led controler and never could get much of an adjustment out of them. Then got the parts to make DIY LEDs work with my RKL only to find out I would need 3-4 of the ALC's to work my fixture or make a diy adapter thing to power them and the RKL only supports 4 moduals. It would mean I had to update to the RKE then buy 4 ALC's A new temp probe <the rkl probe does not work with the rke> and at that point I was pissed enough to just go buy the apex lol.
I should be hooking up the LED's to the Apex this weekend and can let you know how it goes.
You do know that the apex provides the 0-10v power to the drivers so you no longer need the wall wart. If you do not have a wall wart that puts out 10 volts I would just wait for your Apex and set the internal pots when you hook it up. Just remember to turn the drivers internal pot that controls the 0-10V all the way to the lowest setting before attaching it to your led strands.
And check with the manufature of your LEDS to see what the max mA they can be ran at and set your drivers to push that with the Apex set at 100% that way you should never overdrive the led's. And when you have the apex at 100% your led's will be at there 100% setting. When you use the apex at 1% or 10% or 23% that is the same % you are pushing the led's at.
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Well I did not paint the back wall of my tank and its to close to the wall to fix that probem. Soooo The caroline covers wires hanging back there.
And I am to lazy to scrape back there anyways .
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and if you can see a 1% increase in power to the LED's you have way better vison than me
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Without a multi meter you may be pushing way more mA than the leds can handle long term. If you go over 750mA on the blues it will shorten there life considerable <not that I know how long considerable is>
and if you push over 1000mA or I guess thats 1amp to the whites it will do the same.
I know with my eln 60 48D's you have to be pushing right at 2vdc before they fire. otherwise they just have a faint glow.
I have not hooked my LED's to the apex I just got yet so I duno how it reacts.
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Pm back at ya
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well the forsale forum here is an awsome resorce to get started on a budget.
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Umm I think you are in the wrong place if you think no one will judge you laugh with you and at you
but not for buying a pair of fish you really want.
enjoy
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my sand has tons of crap in it thats why I got it lol
I think I got a broken one
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Ok is it a bad sign when a sand sifting starfish stays on the glass lol. Is my sand that stinky
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I would say if you post your tank size and if its a fowler or reef would help.
Me personaly depending on Size I would guess 48" I would look into a used led like the SOL it might not be big enough for 48" though.
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could the tank only be free for me
nice setup
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so from the pics of the war coral I take it its about a 1"x1" square ? i figure the holes are 1/2"
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bump
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bumpity bump bump
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I have a jbj 1/15 if your interested I took down the 30 gal nanocube and no longer need it. It might be to small for you
$150
apex programmers out there
in Reef Keeping
Posted
I would say as long as when you put it back into the 7 or 10 after its done calibrating and it reads 7 or 10 then you are all set. Jus make sure not to cross contaminate them and always clean the probe in ro water before going to the other solution.