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Canopy plans and lighting


mFrame

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I'm beginning planning for the canopy for my 90g. I have (2)250 MH reflectors, but would like to put T5s in for actinic lighting. I'm looking for a good base design for the canopy and open to input on what you would use for the actinics.

Garf recommends 7-10w per gallon, which I calculate as 630-900w of light needed. Less the 500w I have, that leaves a range of 130-400w addtiional.

I'm planning to have a pretty good variety of softies, lps, my gbta, and would like a clam or two, while keeping my fish.

Thanks!

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Interested in the reply. I was planning on using 250s in my 90G i'm getting set up (yea, get funds today.) Do i need to go up to 400s?

From what I've read, depends on what you want to have in your tank. I think you've got the same 26-27" depth I have, so you could definitely go to 400s.

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Remember when considering depth for lighting to subtract tank top to water surface and depth of sand. (an significant difference for those running DSBs)

Also I understand (if someone knows different please correct me) that when calculating watts per gallon actinics aren't counted / counted at the same value. It unfortunate that what we have for figuring this out is watts instead of PAR which would be much more valuable.

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Remember that a 90g is a relatively small tank when you start talking 400w bulbs. A dual 400w setup will cook the average 90g setup. I ran dual 175's and 2x110w VHo actinics over my original tank (90g) and it grew everything just fine (SPS, LPS, softies). I think 250w probably has the most options bulb wise, but the Iwasaki 15k 175w bulb beats many of the 250's and compares really well to the rest. I think with 400's you will need a chiller (or a massive sump).

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I would suggest 250w for a 24" tall tank, You don't need 400w until you get to 30". The only reason to run 400w on anything less would be if you were suspending them higher above a long tank and wanted to cover a wider area. 2-250w and 2-54w T5 should be enough for a 90g you could use 2 94w pc's in place of the T5's, but either are just going to be for color your growth will come from the MH.

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If i could do it all over again.. i would have went with VHO and just 1 250MH i dont really care much for the t-5s i think i would have used 6 VHOs and just 1 250MH. i can tell you this 2 250w MH makes the tank extremely hot i cant run both of mine without the tank getting over 81 in just a couple hrs.. im going to try and see if i can use the PC`s im getting hopefully today and see if their is a difference in how my corals react i dont think they like the t-5s they strive under my corallife 250 and pc fixture when i had my 42g but now they arnt doing as well.. not to mention the PC lights use less energy than the t-5s have you seen axtryans 125g? he is using 10 t-5s i think and his tank is pretty nice and getting very good sps growth.. its cool to see his tank its like everything is giant because he has very nice colony's and a very large nem.. its nice im shooting for that in the long run. just a couple options and my .02

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Currently run 2x250w MH with 2x 96w PC actinics over my 75 and think it's just right. I've seen many a 90g run with 2x 400w with good success. I think it is over kill but they were also dedicated SPS tanks. The guys with the 400w tanks were running serious CA reactors, Kalk reactors, large stream pumps, etc...

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Matt I dont like the T5's when used as actinic supplement either! I have always liked VHO's. The problem with that is the dont last as long. As far as PC's go they are decent in IMO, but the put out way more heat than T5"s or VHO's. If your tank stay at 81 degrees you shoud be ok. If you plan to keep SPS and only want to run 1 MH you are going to want to look into a better reflector. Just my 2 cents!

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I kinda figured id need a better reflector its just a hello lights retro kit are the ones i have. i do like the icecap reflectors i have with the t5s their nice.. ill look into that i like sps but i cant get them to do well in this tank. a couple are doing ok but some bleach then come back then start to bleach again.. it drives me crazy.i wished i would have kept the 150watt i bought from you a wile back. id run that and the 250 vs 2 250s

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Matt I dont like the T5's when used as actinic supplement either! I have always liked VHO's.

Can you explain this statement further. Is it based on light output or color, etc?

I am researching lighting and canopy vs no canopy so this thread is very helpful.

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I have two 400W's with two 48" T5s over my 200 gal. I want to redo the lights, and when I do if I still do MH, I'll have three 250W's (plus a combo of LED's and/or more T5s).

I completely agree, now that I have researched and done more reading on the subject (both Sprung and Calfo), that 400W's are completely unnecessary and overkill (maybe even detrimental) for any tank shallower than 28" - 30".

Stephen

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How do you keep water in that thing? wink.gif

My RO/DI is one of the hardest working pieces of equipment in the house!!! LOL!

Matt I think 1 lumenarc with 250w MH with T5 actinics would be plenty for your tank....

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Currently run 2x250w MH with 2x 96w PC actinics over my 75 and think it's just right. I've seen many a 90g run with 2x 400w with good success. I think it is over kill but they were also dedicated SPS tanks. The guys with the 400w tanks were running serious CA reactors, Kalk reactors, large stream pumps, etc...

So with my (2) 250 MH both running 14,000K Hamilton, I'm thinking that I'll do (2) 48" T5 for actinic. I have an icecap 660 harness and ballast. I'm a bit unclear on what wattage bulbs to run and if the ballast and harness just adjust to power whatever I put in? A comment I read said that the icecap overdrives 55w 48" bulbs at 85 watts.

What actinic bulbs would be best?

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Matt I think 1 lumenarc with 250w MH with T5 actinics would be plenty for your tank....

I've am running a 75 and was thinking about running a single 250, but I am a little concerned about the fixture being, presumably, right over the center brace. Are there any issues with that? Perhaps it was just a fluke but it seems I remember Capt Obvious breaking his center brace a while back and he was suspicious of his halide contributing to it. Also wouldn't the brace 'weaken' the light somewhat?

Thanks

Bill

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Bill if you have the standard 75g I would run 2 MH's 175/250w. If the center brace is in the middle it will effect the par if you dont keep it clean. The glass center brace could get hot enough to crack if splash with cold water, but I have only heard of this happing a few times. If you were to run 1 MH over the center brace I would keep it atleast 6-8'' above the brace depending on the reflector you use. JMO. This is assuming you want to keep SPS in all areas of your tank.

Good luck

Dustin

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Yes, it most definitely has a center brace, and is fairly wide. Jake said to be sure to keep it clean to prevent blocking light.

And in an effort to re-jack my thread... :lol:

any recommendations on fans for the canopy? It will be completely enclosed so I know I will want probably 2-3 fans on left and ride sides pulling air in, and plan to put 2-4 on top pushing air out.

I have an Aquacontroller III on the way, but am open to suggestions on what fans to use and a guess on cost. Can I just use computer case fans?

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yep you can.. i used SlienX iXtrema Pro Quiet Fans (2) 120mm for the top and SlienX iXtrema Pro Quiet Fans (4) 60mm for the rear their quite expencive but no noise.. and optimum air flow. i use these in ever PC i build as well.. in Fact i replace most my vid card fan with these aswell..

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