esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 received a pretty large shipment of corals in today.. so a dipping party was in order! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Sounds like fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 The more people that dip the better. If we all dip our corals we can reduce the spread of disease amongst the reefing community. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Dont be a drag, dip your frag! That's my motto! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 How come Bayer Insecticide wasn't invited to the party? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 For us dipping noobs, other than the RO/DI what's in those bowls and what's your process? Currently I just dip in CoralRx and then rinse in some fresh salt water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooks Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 For us dipping noobs, other than the RO/DI what's in those bowls and what's your process? Currently I just dip in CoralRx and then rinse in some fresh salt water. At least you're dipping! The others were Lugols (Iodine), Flat Worm Exit, and last but not least, Furan.. which I believe is an anti-bacterial medication? He is covering the majority of his bases by dipping in all 4 of these! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Is it necessary to use all these dips or is the Coral Rx sufficient? I know this will probably kick off much debate, but I don't want to feel confident that what I'm doing is enough when it's not and then introduce something unwanted to my DT. I'm going to guess that what you use will greatly depend on what you're dipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooks Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Is it necessary to use all these dips or is the Coral Rx sufficient? I know this will probably kick off much debate, but I don't want to feel confident that what I'm doing is enough when it's not and then introduce something unwanted to my DT. I'm going to guess that what you use will greatly depend on what you're dipping. Personally, I just dip in Coral Rx.... others may feel differently, but I've never had problems doing just Coral Rx or ReVive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 am i the only one that is confused by having to drip acclimate corals before putting them in a tank, yet you can dip them in four different solutions for several minutes at a time as a good practice? i mean we have to give them an hour to get used to a change in salinity of 0.01, but leaving them in fresh water for several minutes is fine? sorry, i'm far away from researching dipping and coral acclimation, so i don't know how it all works. it just strikes me as odd. maybe dipping is way more complicated than it seems. also, no one need explain it to me here, you can just say "your stupid, read about it and it will make sense" and that'll be sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 For us dipping noobs, other than the RO/DI what's in those bowls and what's your process? Currently I just dip in CoralRx and then rinse in some fresh salt water. Dips are : RODI / Lugols / Flatworm Exit / Furan2 I dip in an assembly line in the following order Zoas : Lugols - FWE - Furan2 - RODI Lugols will get rid of the majority of the undesirables, i.e. small snails, pods. FWE will kill Nudibranchs, Furan2 treats for ZoaPox and other bacterial infections, and the RO/DI rinse is to help rid them of the yellow/green stain of the Furan2. After battling an outbreak of zoa pox almost a year ago, and losing almost all of my zoas, I started using Furan2 for EVERY SINGLE zoa I purchase/trade/frag. SPS : Lugols - FWE - SW Rinse LPS : Lugols - FWE - RODI Other softies - Lugols - FWE - SW Rinse As for drip acclimation, I generally don't unless its a very sensitive coral. Things like basic SPS and Zoas really don't need much acclimation. This is my current method for new coral purchases. Float bag in tank for 30 mins Cut open bag and dump contents (including water and coral) into a container large enough for the coral/water and some tank water For every 6-8oz of water in the bag, I add 6-8oz of my tank water to the container (I generally use a plastic measuring cup with handle and hang it in the tank to adjust to temp) Start dipping procedure Move corals into QT QT 1 week to 2 weeks Treat as necessary Move to DT I find a magnifying glass and head lamp are awesome tools during this procedure (not to mention a multi-timer) Planeden: In reference to your question, Zoa's can tolerate being out of the water for lengthy periods of time. In the wild, its not uncommon for them the be exposed to open air during low tide for hours on end. Zoas are more tolerant of being mishandled than most corals. Paly's are a close second, and other softies follow this same trend. Things like sponges begin to die the moment they touch air. Things like SPS begin to slime, and can begin to RTN almost immediately if mishandled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Is it necessary to use all these dips or is the Coral Rx sufficient? I know this will probably kick off much debate, but I don't want to feel confident that what I'm doing is enough when it's not and then introduce something unwanted to my DT. I'm going to guess that what you use will greatly depend on what you're dipping. It's really up to the farmer/aquarist. I personally only used to dip lugols, until I had a bout with zoa pox. Then I witnessed my friends MASSIVE eye of rah colony get decimated by a nudi outbreak, and FWE entered the dipping process. If you stage it just right, with a large enough container, a beer, and some simpsons reruns, you can be done with dipping in less than an hour (took me 45 mins to dip 32 corals) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Planeden: In reference to your question, Zoa's can tolerate being out of the water for lengthy periods of time. In the wild, its not uncommon for them the be exposed to open air during low tide for hours on end. Zoas are more tolerant of being mishandled than most corals. Paly's are a close second, and other softies follow this same trend. Things like sponges begin to die the moment they touch air. Things like SPS begin to slime, and can begin to RTN almost immediately if mishandled. i read a book that was adamant about sponges never being exposed to air and making sure not to get any of the bag water into the tank. i have yet to see any explanation of how that is supposed to work. ok, put bag under water. hold onto bag water? open bag under water. pull out sponge under water. yeah, seems a bit futile. maybe if you freeze the bag solid, hold the ice under water, chip it away and pull out all the ice chips? make sure QT water is at 32.1 degrees to minimize melting. in case it is not clear, at this point i am just being silly. at least, i'm pretty sure these procedures are silly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 What I do for sponges is the following : Take large container (my 4 cup measuring cup) Place below bag (i used a wire shelf to make this easier) Take drip acclimation tube, and begin drip acclimation into bag poke hole in the bottom of the bag, so that water drips into measuring cup below bag. Increase/decrease valve on acclimation tube to match water drainage from bag. Once done, pinch bag where hole is to stop dripping/streaming Dip bag into tank/sump wherever, turn upside down and place sponge where desired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I also read that sponges can't be in open air. I had a sponge growing over some zoas once so I pulled it out of the tank. Picked off as much sponge as I could and left it out for an hour then put it back in the water. Long story short. Sponge came back and killed the zoas by smothering them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 I also read that sponges can't be in open air. I had a sponge growing over some zoas once so I pulled it out of the tank. Picked off as much sponge as I could and left it out for an hour then put it back in the water. Long story short. Sponge came back and killed the zoas by smothering them Clearly it was living on a desire for vengeance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 REVENNNNNNGEEE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 For us dipping noobs, other than the RO/DI what's in those bowls and what's your process? Currently I just dip in CoralRx and then rinse in some fresh salt water. Dips are : RODI / Lugols / Flatworm Exit / Furan2 I dip in an assembly line in the following order Zoas : Lugols - FWE - Furan2 - RODI Lugols will get rid of the majority of the undesirables, i.e. small snails, pods. FWE will kill Nudibranchs, Furan2 treats for ZoaPox and other bacterial infections, and the RO/DI rinse is to help rid them of the yellow/green stain of the Furan2. After battling an outbreak of zoa pox almost a year ago, and losing almost all of my zoas, I started using Furan2 for EVERY SINGLE zoa I purchase/trade/frag. SPS : Lugols - FWE - SW Rinse LPS : Lugols - FWE - RODI Other softies - Lugols - FWE - SW Rinse So does the Bayer insecticide or Coral Rx fulfill the purpose of any of the products listed here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 bayer would be more for anything alive, and not in egg form. So it would put the kabosh on pods, nudis, etc.. It would be a good replacement for FWE. http://www.reefdup.com/2012/09/02/bayer-coral-dip/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+etannert Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Also kills red bugs and the LPS "black bug." There's also some folks on Reef Central that are doing an H202 dip. I'll see if I can turn up the page... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+etannert Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Here it is - describes the three part dipping process (h202, Revive, Bayer) that is having a lot of success. This is from the Reef Central LPS forum - really cool thread called Rescue Corals. I have a few rescues of my own I'm proud of, but nothing like what these guys manage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niko's Reef Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Interesting and informative post. At Stinky's we've been asking a lot of our ARC members, staff, vendors what they use for dipping. We have gathered mix results about Coral RX. Seems like the majority of our club use Bayer and have great results. We also have Revive, but were told that is more for the healing of coral. We were looking into inceptor, but that isn't always the easiest to obtain. We want to start a process at Stinky's that we dip coral 3 times, and enter everything that is done for dipping and qt into a database for customers to view the history of the coral. Once we receive it, once when it has made it out of the QT tank, and once when it is sold. We are wanting to have a meeting at our shop to see what our customers are desiring and what we could do to ease our customers concerns about parasites. If anyone is interested please let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesreyn Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Interesting and informative post. At Stinky's we've been asking a lot of our ARC members, staff, vendors what they use for dipping. We have gathered mix results about Coral RX. Seems like the majority of our club use Bayer and have great results. We also have Revive, but were told that is more for the healing of coral. We were looking into inceptor, but that isn't always the easiest to obtain. We want to start a process at Stinky's that we dip coral 3 times, and enter everything that is done for dipping and qt into a database for customers to view the history of the coral. Once we receive it, once when it has made it out of the QT tank, and once when it is sold. We are wanting to have a meeting at our shop to see what our customers are desiring and what we could do to ease our customers concerns about parasites. If anyone is interested please let us know. Cool concept to view the history of each coral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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