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Planeden

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There's a pin in the little box that's between the pump and the outlet, if that makes sense. You can change out the pins and each pin gives a different flow. Or you get the controller that's an extra cost, or use something like apex.

Awesome, thanks. It seems to make sense. And odd way to do it, but whatever works. So, without a fancy box you can change the flow in a number of increments, not "dial in" 447.2 GPH.

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+1 for tunze. If for no other reason than the mounting equipment.

There's also the much debated JEBAO powerheads we've been discussing in the other thread ;)

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3 blue green chromis (at 9" of fish, this will take almost half our rule of thumb "1/2 inch per gallon")

Orchid Dotty Back

Undetermined Blenny

Royal Gramma

...

Have an Orchid Dotty Back and love it. Blenny, we have a bi-color. Both have tons of personality and are very different fish. Blenny is very shy and non-agro. Dotty back is shy but can be very agro when it wants to be. I will have to say the blenny is one of my favorite fish I've ever owned. The colors, behavior, attitude, just a cool fish. Needs sand though. Likes to sift through it. Don't think I would house one with agro fish though.

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Thanks again victoly. Appreciated as always. Forgot to mention that with the tunze I may forgo the second powerhead. Do you think that'll be good or should I run the second one at near minimum strength and the primary one a little higher?

Esacjack. I've been in the jebao thread and actually was going to go in on the group buy that may or may not happen. When it was a $30 pump it seemed great. Then it was a $40 pump with $25 shipping. Then I'd have to buy and splice in a dimmer switch...suddenly the price just didn't seem as awesome compared to the short track record. If I were dead set on the mp10, then it may still be. But with $25 more I can get a quality pump with a proven track record and recommendations on every forum in the Internet...peace of mind won out. I'm sure I'll have enough go wrong my first time to have to worry about a powerhead.

I do hope they end up being good pumps. Then maybe someday I'll upgrade.

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3 blue green chromis (at 9" of fish, this will take almost half our rule of thumb "1/2 inch per gallon")

Orchid Dotty Back

Undetermined Blenny

Royal Gramma

...

Have an Orchid Dotty Back and love it. Blenny, we have a bi-color. Both have tons of personality and are very different fish. Blenny is very shy and non-agro. Dotty back is shy but can be very agro when it wants to be. I will have to say the blenny is one of my favorite fish I've ever owned. The colors, behavior, attitude, just a cool fish. Needs sand though. Likes to sift through it. Don't think I would house one with agro fish though.

Great, thanks grog. I mentioned the orchid because my book said they were the one non agressve dotty. Is that not your experience? Maybe it's a relative thing...compared to all other Dotties, this guy only picks on some fish. agressive dotty backs is also how the gramma made it on the list. We found it because it looked like a royal dotty back.

Blennis are an awesome group of fish. It seems there is a Benny to mimic every other fish in the sea. I admit I love the one that hangs out on his little stream corner dressed as a cleaner fish, doing his little cleaner fish dance, and takes bites out of his customers. Don't want him in my tank, but I have to give him credit for his ingenuity.

Oh, and the tank will have sand. If sand in this case applies to aragonite, crushed coral, and all the other small grain substrates.

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Drs. Foster and Smith just dropped off a package. The Reef Aquarium Vol. III sure looks like some nice light reading. If anyone needs it, it was $65 at Drs. F&S compared to $85 at amazon or BRS. Also qualified for free shipping. The drawback is that they include a catalog to tempt you into more purchases.

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I am a lot more informed now than I was a few hours ago. Thank you subsea for generously spending the evening with me and letting me see your setups. I have learned a lot from books, articles, and through these forums. But to just sit around and be able to ask questions with someone knowledgable and experienced was great. It just tied together a lot of loose ends.

Next step: ordering stuff

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I'm thinking of trying the skimmerless refugiume sump. after debating through the weekend about tearing apart my sump and redoing it, removing one baffle, or just using my sump as is; I think I am going to use it as is. It may not be ideal, but it will give me the peace of mind of having a professionally designed sump and allow me to add the skimmer back in if it ends up a total failure. so for now I'll just fill the skimmer and fuge sections with mud and macro.

My question is, do I need to worry about slowing down the flow rate in my sump to give the stuff more time to do its filtering thing? At current rates I think the sump will turn over 20x to 40x an hour. And the tank will turn over 7x to 15x per hour. I can get plenty of flow with powerheads to make up for a reduction from the return and add aeration for the lost skimmer.

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Sorry, so this is sort of turning into "The Ramblings of a First Time Builder" thread. But, it is good for me getting everything done on epaper. Also, I figure that if i am dong something egregious, someone will say so. So, unless some it is against some forum rule, i will carry on. end of PSA.

Exitment Begins, coming in the mail this week:

2 - tunze turbelle nanostream 6045 power heads

60 lbs. - BRS Reef Saver Rock

20 lbs. - BRS Rock Rubble

1 - BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor - Deluxe with MJ1200 pump

0.5 gal - BRS Bulk Small Particle Lignite Carbon

1 gal - Refugium Mineral Mud

80 lbs. - Caribsea Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand (1mm - 2mm grain)

I think I will have more rock and mud than I will need. I think I have about the right amount of sand for what I'm doing. I have no idea about the rubble. I may have way to much or way to little. I know (hope) that it sounds like a lot for a 40g tank, but i plan on using a lot of it in my aquascaping. So, I'm pretty sure I will need more than the average tank.

*updated first post with new equipment

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Since your getting dry rock what you will want to do is right now get a big enough rubbermaid container to fit the amout of rocks you are getting and get your salt mixed and pick up a piece of LR either off the forum/CL and throw it in there and throw one of the tunzes in there. You'll be cycling the rock so do it in the garage. I would throw that refugium mud in there as well as the rubble rock.

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be weary of the BRS rock leaching phosphate. do a bit of googling for the cooking process to make sure that you're not dosing your display tank. additionally, pay attention to the lignite carbon releasing phosphate. they don't do the HCL wash on the lower grade carbons, and therefore they have a tendency to dump some phosphate initially.

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Thanks Brian,

I was thinking about seeding with a little live sand and/or live mud and dosing ammonia with a shrimp. But it just occured to me that the reef saver rock may not have anything on it to decay. For those that don't know, the reef saver comes from an ancient dry reef that has not been in the ocean for a long time. So maybe I need some LR in there, too.

Since the tank is empty I was planning on just curing it in the tank with the powerhead(s) and return pump running. no substrate yet. I have lots of reading still to do on this. But, I'm still a month of so away from watering anything.

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be weary of the BRS rock leaching phosphate. do a bit of googling for the cooking process to make sure that you're not dosing your display tank. additionally, pay attention to the lignite carbon releasing phosphate. they don't do the HCL wash on the lower grade carbons, and therefore they have a tendency to dump some phosphate initially.

thanks victoly. The site said no phosphate in the rock, but I will test it as it cures. I also thought BRS carbon was high quality so wouldn't leach carbon. should I soak it for a week before putting it in the tank, like you do? boil it like capt does? get some acid to cure it and try not to kill myself? ok, probably toss it and buy new would be better than the last one.

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If you use live sand/mud this should be enough so no shrimp is needed but I would pick up one LR at least. Bio is selling his rock and it's nice and purple. This will really help seed your tank and give you coraline algae for your other rocks. You want to do this in the garage because it will smell.

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be weary of the BRS rock leaching phosphate. do a bit of googling for the cooking process to make sure that you're not dosing your display tank. additionally, pay attention to the lignite carbon releasing phosphate. they don't do the HCL wash on the lower grade carbons, and therefore they have a tendency to dump some phosphate initially.

thanks victoly. The site said no phosphate in the rock, but I will test it as it cures. I also thought BRS carbon was high quality so wouldn't leach carbon. should I soak it for a week before putting it in the tank, like you do? boil it like capt does? get some acid to cure it and try not to kill myself? ok, probably toss it and buy new would be better than the last one.

Yeah, I know they advertise it as such, but rock isn't homogenous. Just keep an eye on P04 outside of your tank before you introduce it. It's a heck of alot easier to catch this stuff before it hits your DT than after. BRS sells multiple grades of carbon, lignite being the low grade, ROX being the high grade. I'd do a little experiment and see what kind of leach you get. It may be perfectly passable for a FW tank, but cause problems with a tank where nutrient control is a priority.

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i think that Bio's schedule is a bit quick for me. I will be out of town for 10 days at the end of the month and wont be able to babysit the rock. So, i wont start until June. But there never seems to be a shortage of LR on the site.

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be weary of the BRS rock leaching phosphate. do a bit of googling for the cooking process to make sure that you're not dosing your display tank. additionally, pay attention to the lignite carbon releasing phosphate. they don't do the HCL wash on the lower grade carbons, and therefore they have a tendency to dump some phosphate initially.

thanks victoly. The site said no phosphate in the rock, but I will test it as it cures. I also thought BRS carbon was high quality so wouldn't leach carbon. should I soak it for a week before putting it in the tank, like you do? boil it like capt does? get some acid to cure it and try not to kill myself? ok, probably toss it and buy new would be better than the last one.

Yeah, I know they advertise it as such, but rock isn't homogenous. Just keep an eye on P04 outside of your tank before you introduce it. It's a heck of alot easier to catch this stuff before it hits your DT than after. BRS sells multiple grades of carbon, lignite being the low grade, ROX being the high grade. I'd do a little experiment and see what kind of leach you get. It may be perfectly passable for a FW tank, but cause problems with a tank where nutrient control is a priority.

got it. thanks. next time i'll look at the ROX stuff. i don't currently run carbon on my FW tanks, maybe i should start :).

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ok, i think i can finally quit work, or at least take a break, and go play with my new packages from BRS and Drs. F&S. I'm assuming that no one wants to see a photomontage of unpacking mostly rocky and sand, so i will spare everyone that.

very exciting.

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