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Research advice for newbie


Planeden

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Hey all,

I started along on my endeavor and will be getting a 40gal reef ready system from Brooks and bought my membership to ARC. With the exception possibly adding a power head or two, all the hardware is there. So now I need to start narrowing my focus from learning the "what am I getting myself into" basics and reading masochism for dummies. After keeping FW tanks for years, I understand basics cycling, patience, and research. I like doing fishless cycles, but I'm unsure if there is an equivalent in SW since the rocks are alive.

My idea is an invert tank that may have a couple of fish. I guess I will start with softies because I think I can avoid some complications like calcium and whatnot that I would need with stones. So, rock, softies, inverts and a couple of fish.

So, is it too open ended to ask "what do I think of next?" to try to minimize my million and one questions?

Thanks for your time.

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Cycle your tank with either a raw shrimp or Dr.tims Cycle starter. If you have lighting and the bulbs aren't old then you should be good to go. Just get yourself on a weekly 10% water change schedule. I would check out the diy section on water change stations that'll help take the hassle out of it until your system is stable. Go ahead and list the parts you already have so we can make sure we can help with better recommendations like ATO, Total amout of LR, etc.

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Best way to do this is to start a "build thread" where you post your setup, what you want to stock, and ask questions :). Off to a good start with brook's old tank, looking forward to seeing it set up!

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Brian: Ok, this may be a bit embarrassing, but I don't know the specifics of my equipment. I bought this from brooks http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/23344-reduced-40g-starfire-front-panel-sump-stand/. But, it has fish in it that he apparently wants to keep for some reason, so he will be moving it to a new system and i will probably get it in a few weeks. once it is broken down I think I will be able to find part numbers.

The skimmer I think is probably the nac6, but maybe the nac7. The brand has good reviews and it had dirty foam in the top of it.

I will check for the water change stations. I should also add "how to make saltwater" to the list of things to look up. As for the ATO, I think I have a pretty cheap startup system. It involves pitcher and maybe an alarm clock or google alert :).

I think I am looking at 60-80 lbs. of LR. currently we are discussing pacific vs. Caribbean. I think a visit to the new LR store in south Austin will be involved.

Victory: stocking...eesh...the pssibilities there are a bit overwhelming. Right now I know LR and CUC. I hope live aquaria has a SW for beginners section that will help narrow the focus a bit. They have it for FW, so I'm sure I can find it somewhere.

I think a build thread will be a great idea. Most of the ones I have seen are experts putting up elaborate systems. I know it will help me, but maybe having one here will also help other newbs.

Thanks guys. Happy Easter.

Ps: why do I always find the glaring typos right after hitting post.

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First thing I would do is begin investing in an RO/DI system and storage containers for salt and fresh water. Then build out a mixing station. Making your own SW saves me a ton of money. Then start focusing on studying pests, aiptasia, nudibranchs, etc.. This way if you find something undesirable during your tank build, you can remedy the situation before it becomes a deal breaker.

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Bio: yeah, couldn't figure out how to edit the subject. I will start the tank build thread, but it should be a while. I have to see how much my taxes will be, currently rebuilding two FW tanks, and lots of other work going on. I was planning on starting in august or so, but that was the buy a tank in August plan. let's see how long I can look at an empty tank. I may start a betting pool of how long I can hold out.

esacjack: I am on the fence about getting my own rodi systems vs. buying rodi water for starting. I am trying to weigh the hassle/expense of setting one up vs. the hassle/expense of buying water. I know my own system will pay for itself in the long run and I have a few ideas kicking around of where to put it. But I also have the concern that if after six months of I realize SW is not for me, it will be on more thing to disassemble and sell.

I have found a couple of online "friend or foe" hitchhikers threads, but any references you have will be greatly appreciated. I imagine my build thread will also end up heavily populated with "what's this?" photos.

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By the way, I hope I am not coming across as argumentative with anyone. I figure if I point out my thinking on an issue, then someone can point out flaws in it.

For instance, someone mentioned an ATO being required for nanos because of salinity spikes. With a 60 gallon system will this be as much of a problem? Will daily top offs be stable enough? Will I just need to measure salinity everyday and judge then?

If I have come across argumentative, please accept my apology and let me know so I may avoid it.

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I see it as inquisitive, not argumentative. People suggest an ATO because its a task that is a)better for your tank in terms of stability, b) relatively inexpensive and c) allows you to focus your daily maintenance into more productive areas that are difficult, expensive or otherwise tricky to automate like cleaning the glass or removing nuisance algae.

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I see it as inquisitive, not argumentative. People suggest an ATO because its a task that is a)better for your tank in terms of stability, b) relatively inexpensive and c) allows you to focus your daily maintenance into more productive areas that are difficult, expensive or otherwise tricky to automate like cleaning the glass or removing nuisance algae.

Inquisitive works. Good points about the ATO. maybe I should start with an algae only tank though until I get the hang of all the parameters. Save lots of time.

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So i checked some of the water change and mixing stations. I am thinking they may be a bit complex for my needs. I also want it to fit in a fairly small coat closet. My tank will be less than 10 feet from a bathroom (which actually has a garden hose plumbed into for filling tanks that i may T off and run an RODI in later). I also figure that i will need no more than 6 gallons of saltwater a week (10% on a 40-60 gal system). Here is my idea to run by the smart people.

For saltwater maybe pick up a 10 gal trash (w/ lid?) and a small pump, heater, and thermometer. I will put enough line on the pump so i can pump from the can to the sump. To mix the salt i may be able to just coil the hose into the can and let that churn it around and mix it. I figure i can drop that same pump into the sump and pull water out and directly into the toilet or sink for water changes.

For fresh water (purchased or made into another bucket/can) pump that into ATO or sump for top offs. Any thoughts on using the same pump as the SW for this? Give it a quick rinse in the sink between them? Maybe i need to run some fresh water through it? Fill sink with FW and run it into the toilet? Or if i need to i can fill a bucket if cleaning products in the sink would be a concern. Man that hose is handy.

If anyone wants to add a hose to a sink you can order a 3/8" to garden hose outlet at http://www.catgenie.com/accessories for $15. Add some sort of shutoff valve to the system and you are done. Cat genie may seem like an odd place to get it, but i have never seen this adapter anywhere else. The litter box is also way cool if you have cats and the money.

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i started off just dumping my topoff water manually with a jug once a day for years on a 55 and had no prob keepping anythin, even sps

I may get my girlfriend to do that "automatically". I think it will also give me one less widget to fiddle with and make sure works right. There are several gizmos I already don't fully understand. But, I do know how toilets work, so it may give me the optomistic hope that I know SOMETHING about this hobby.

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  • 3 weeks later...

i started off just dumping my topoff water manually with a jug once a day for years on a 55 and had no prob keepping anythin, even sps

I may get my girlfriend to do that "automatically". I think it will also give me one less widget to fiddle with and make sure works right. There are several gizmos I already don't fully understand. But, I do know how toilets work, so it may give me the optomistic hope that I know SOMETHING about this hobby.

You are too funny. A sense of humor is invaluable with many things in life. When you can make others smile, then you have the magic touch. I have been following some of your post and hear a common sense approach. Good for you. I am a relic and would be the icon for "old school".

With respect to the wisdom of keeping condition parameters constant does not ring true to me. It is normal on the reef for upwelling currents to bring different temperatures and different salanities. It is normal for pH to rise during photosynthesis and to fall during lights out. On the open reef as well as in the lagoon, pH falls at night. Yet reef wisdom says to have an opposite photosyntic cycle to maintain constant pH. I use aroggonite in all of my substrates. When pH falls at night, aroggonite begins to dissolve at 8.1. Alkalinity buffering and addittion of trace minerals happen automatically. No monitors, no controllers, no testing, no skimmers and no scheduled water changes aside from slight gravel vacuming.

I say, keep it simple.

La bonne temps roulee,

Patrick

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[

You are too funny. A sense of humor is invaluable with many things in life. When you can make others smile, then you have the magic touch. I have been following some of your post and hear a common sense approach. Good for you. I am a relic and would be the icon for "old school".

With respect to the wisdom of keeping condition parameters constant does not ring true to me. It is normal on the reef for upwelling currents to bring different temperatures and different salanities. It is normal for pH to rise during photosynthesis and to fall during lights out. On the open reef as well as in the lagoon, pH falls at night. Yet reef wisdom says to have an opposite photosyntic cycle to maintain constant pH. I use aroggonite in all of my substrates. When pH falls at night, aroggonite begins to dissolve at 8.1. Alkalinity buffering and addittion of trace minerals happen automatically. No monitors, no controllers, no testing, no skimmers and no scheduled water changes aside from slight gravel vacuming.

I say, keep it simple.

La bonne temps roulee,

Patrick

Thank you Mr Sea. I do try to keep things light and make myself laugh. If others laugh too, it's just a bonus :).

I like to think I have common sense, but I'm sure you kind find arguments against that. But one thing that most attracts me to reef keeping is the idea of building a mini ecosystem that has all the bits built into to take care of itself naturally. I know a complete biosphere is not possible, and that I can't just toss animals in to solve all my problems, but that idea is fascinating.

I know that there are "old school" people, the techno-gizmo people, and all sorts in between. I, however, am a blank slate. I respect all types. I am not a Luddite, but nor am I someone who has to have the latest to with all the beeps and lights. I hope to get opinions from each type of reefer so that I can figure out what will work for me. Although, I would prefer not tend end up with discussion of arbitrary ideals of nano tanks.

I will soon be starting a build thread (picked up my tank last night). I will be seeking a ton of advice, perhaps more than people want to offer. Which, I would completely understand.

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