Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 OK guys and gals... where should the pumps go. I have 2 MP60s (60) 3 MP40s (40) 2 Variable Tunzes turned up towards the surface (T) Here's how it currently is. CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO SEE WHERE I DREW THEM Here's some options I thought of: Option 1 Option 2 Option 3 It's possible I won't need a few of the pumps now that I have 2 main rock structures and not 6. Just not sure which route to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Personally I like option 1, that way you can sell off or use the Tunzes somewhere else. I forget, yours is a 6ft tank right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Personally I like option 1, that way you can sell off or use the Tunzes somewhere else. I forget, yours is a 6ft tank right? 7 ft. Thus option also removes all cords from the tank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Any way you can hide an MP40 behind each rock structure so you can't see any pumps on the back wall? I think it would look really nice with a clean back wall... gives you that negative space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Any way you can hide an MP40 behind each rock structure so you can't see any pumps on the back wall? I think it would look really nice with a clean back wall... gives you that negative space. Maybe... But it also wouldn't be very useful. The way vortechs push the water isn't very directional... Would be kinda pointless behind a structure. The tunzes could be used behind the structures pointed up but makes the cords more visible. I still have time to figure it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Wouldn't behind a structure be ideal for a pump that is not directional? That way it disperses the flow on the sides and top while directly behind the structure and not seen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 my tunze is semiburried under rocks and seems to be ok at 70%. cleaning it will be a problem tho *lol* you should make your light go back and forth like RCA's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Wouldn't behind a structure be ideal for a pump that is not directional? That way it disperses the flow on the sides and top while directly behind the structure and not seen? The other thing I haven't incorporated is flow from my return. Might not need the tunzes at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 one wouldnt hurt if you want some wave action... really doesnt take much. I have 2 in my tank, and one is down.. havent had the need to fix it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Here it is with the 3rd bag of sand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 My tank is set up like Option 1, without the middle WP40. I would place the middle pump differently if you want to use it. It's going to push a lot of sand away from the front of the glass and it's going to look out of place between the two structures. I'm not sure how close your towers are to the back wall or how much flow you are looking for. I like the flow I get from four 3,300 gph constant flow pumps. You can always add the two Tunze later if you want more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemoon Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I knew Ty was an aggie at heart! The video really shows the intricacy in the main rock scapes....they're friggin awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christyef Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I tried to snap a photo of your video... What are the 2 cylinders in this pic? The last compartment of your sump... Rocks look GREAT! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 I tried to snap a photo of your video... What are the 2 cylinders in this pic? The last compartment of your sump... Rocks look GREAT! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Gfo and carbon reactors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christyef Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I tried to snap a photo of your video... What are the 2 cylinders in this pic? The last compartment of your sump... Rocks look GREAT! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Gfo and carbon reactors.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Like the ones on the left of the stand? Sorry if these seem like dumb questions... Jst have never seen 4 before. (2 sets)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 mine has 4 now- 2 carbon, 1 gfo, 1 extra for carx... more the merrier i say! I also prefer to have external-sump stuff, makes for more water volume... if you have room. I just cant wait for rory to be done! i wanna see it DONE!!! chopchop! hehe, paaaatience grasshoppa. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 I tried to snap a photo of your video... What are the 2 cylinders in this pic? The last compartment of your sump... Rocks look GREAT! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Gfo and carbon reactors.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Like the ones on the left of the stand? Sorry if these seem like dumb questions... Jst have never seen 4 before. (2 sets)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk If I'm understanding your question correctly, The bio pellet reactor, calcium reactor, gfo and carbon reactors are all from the same company. The bio pellet and calcium reactor are to the left of the sump, and the gfo and carbon are inside the sump after the baffle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christyef Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Ah.... They're all for different things. Makes sense now.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 OK... Nitrate is at .5 and Phosphate is at .05. I already plan on doing a 100% water change to switch over to the Red Sea Salt. I see a touch of diatoms on the rock so i'm thinking everything is working out as it should. Should I wait before I do the 100 change or go for it? Should I go ahead and move the corals over once that's checks out or wait for the diatom bloom to subside? i'm going to have another bloom over the right rock work since there's no light over it right now i'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 OK... Nitrate is at .5 and Phosphate is at .05. I already plan on doing a 100% water change to switch over to the Red Sea Salt. I see a touch of diatoms on the rock so i'm thinking everything is working out as it should. Should I wait before I do the 100 change or go for it? Should I go ahead and move the corals over once that's checks out or wait for the diatom bloom to subside? i'm going to have another bloom over the right rock work since there's no light over it right now i'm sure. Swap to the red sea salt if you want now. I see no difference or reason to though. If its the Red Sea Pro salt, all you'll do is just jack up your alk/ca/mg levels since the salt has higher levels of all of those. I'd say go slow. You are essentially starting a new tank with cycled rock. The bacteria levels in the rock still need to catch up to the bioload of your tank so throwing everything in there at once may not be ideal. I'd move over some tester colonies and see if how goes. If everything looks good after a week, then move some more, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 OK... Nitrate is at .5 and Phosphate is at .05. I already plan on doing a 100% water change to switch over to the Red Sea Salt. I see a touch of diatoms on the rock so i'm thinking everything is working out as it should. Should I wait before I do the 100 change or go for it? Should I go ahead and move the corals over once that's checks out or wait for the diatom bloom to subside? i'm going to have another bloom over the right rock work since there's no light over it right now i'm sure. Swap to the red sea salt if you want now. I see no difference or reason to though. If its the Red Sea Pro salt, all you'll do is just jack up your alk/ca/mg levels since the salt has higher levels of all of those.I'd say go slow. You are essentially starting a new tank with cycled rock. The bacteria levels in the rock still need to catch up to the bioload of your tank so throwing everything in there at once may not be ideal. I'd move over some tester colonies and see if how goes. If everything looks good after a week, then move some more, etc... Just trying to keep the chemistry as close to the corals as possible. The rock is in instant ocean saltwater right now. I run regular Red Sea salt on my tank. I had the instant ocean to use cheaper salt to finish the cure and or cycle if there was one just in case. I have no livestock other than coral at this point in the bin so will that create a bio load that it needs to catch up with? I have been feeding the coral zeo foods. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 i switched from pro to instantocean/coralife reef variants since i have the CARX. no reason to pay extra for stuff you are already adding in at a more costly manner. I wouldn't do a large water change until you have a full algea bloom on both sides, or you are just extending the bloomtime[tm]. lack of patience in the enemy! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 i switched from pro to instantocean/coralife reef variants since i have the CARX. no reason to pay extra for stuff you are already adding in at a more costly manner. I wouldn't do a large water change until you have a full algea bloom on both sides, or you are just extending the bloomtime[tm]. lack of patience in the enemy! I was thinking of putting that BML over the right rock scape to make sure it blooms on both sides. Ordered my new cuc too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Add my old BML over the right structure to let the diatoms bloom! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 Diatom city! Test results Na3 - .25 Po4 - 0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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