caferacermike

My tank has been in the "works" since I bought it 5 years ago. I may win longest tank build ever. But then again I'm trying to sell it now.

I'm selling my 400 gallon tank and all equipment. Sponsor epic reef has a nearly new 125 listed in his forum.

Well is it full?

Rust? Come on Callahan you should know better. GFO-Granular Ferric Oxide=Rust. Purely rust. AKA Phosphate remover. Your BFF@BRS sells it to us by the ton, http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/carbon-and-gfo/bulk-gfo-granular-ferric-oxide-phosphate-remover Webster says: ferric oxide noun Definition: of FERRIC OXIDE The red or black oxide of iron Fe2O3 found in nature as hematite and as rustand also obtained synthetically and used especially in magnetic materials, as a pigment, and for polishing Webster says: rust noun \ˈrəst\ Definition of RUST 1a : the reddish brittle coating formed on iron especially when chemically attacked by moist air and composed essentially of hydrated ferric oxide b : a comparable coating produced on a metal other than iron by corrosion Phooey. I expect better from Mr. Saltwater. Yeah I'm calling ya out in Spades on that one.

BUMP I'm willing to entertain offers of $5,000. Just wanting to move my life in a different direction and would like to find a new home for this tank.

That RO unit you have a new pic of is not a quality unit. The water is not, and never will be forced through the DI resin such as that in a good updraft canister. Those are purely cosmetic. That last thing on the unit is some sort of "taste effector" meant to replace the "taste" of RO/DI water. Usually it's ground up coconut charcoal and actually adds TDS to the outgoing water. The idea is that people don't like the taste of RO/DI water so they add a little something back to it. Those units are the $100 specials that go under your sink for drinking water. Now I'm not saying that the units we buy for the hobby are much different, or necessarily better, but there are faults in it's design. Swap out the DI thingy for a real DI canister set up, ditch that last thing that they put inline and make sure you are using a Dow Filmtech membrane. That will help lower the TDS in the new unit.

7-10TDS IS NOT ENOUGH TO RUIN A TANK. Seriously we all use RO/DI because we know it makes our hobby easier. I've met several people with nice tanks that use only tap water at 400-600ppm. So scratch your other idea to. It's not what you are putting in your tank, it's what is already there. But hey you've shot down everything that has been suggested so it sounds like you've got purely mean Gremlins.

I've said it a hundred times that the 3 days of darkness is bogus. And how many times must it be pointed out that YOU MUST DO A HUGE WATER CHANGE IMMEDIATELY AFTER the 3 days of darkness. Nobody ever mentions that. If you ever saw any sort of die off because you left the lights off for 3 days or 3 weeks, that decaying algae is still in the water. As soon as you turn your lights on it will become an algae feeding frenzy. Once when I had a tank meltdown and algae grew in because of all the death, I shut the lights off for like 6 months while the tank stabilized. Sure enough it was still covered in algae. Jeremy is right that something is feeding your algae bloom. Not sure what. My TDS comes out of my RO/DI at around 20 and I don't care a bit. It works just fine and I don't have algae problems. I also disagree with the comments about getting more clean up crews. I went through that game when I first started in the hobby. What I found was that the more snails, hermits, crabs etc that I had the more algae I had. They consume left over food and crap perfectly condensed algae food. The more snails you have, the less fish you can have. It's a simple matter of ratios. Basically I am going to call it "The Butthole Theory". The more buttholes you have, the more waste is being produced. You only want a certain number of buttholes in your tank. Feed less than you are now, in fact the less buttholes you have, the less you need to feed. In my 75g the hermits fought and killed all of my cleanups until I have a nice little mix of 10 nassarius, 3 hermits, and about 9 cucumbers. Not exactly a huge cleanup crew in a 75g tank. I only feed my tank about once a week and only about an 1/8th of a teaspoon at that. My fish are healthy, my pod population is very large, my corals are fine. If there is any 1 thing I have noticed, it's that the more corals I have the more stable the tank. Corals really help purify the water, same with clams. I'd say it's time for new bulbs, a couple of weekly back to back large volume water changes so you can "reset" your parameters, stop feeding altogether, add more corals, and make sure your skimmer is working properly.

This confounds me and goes completely against the sound logic of a refugium. The idea that you provide an ideal place for organisms that grow faster and process waste better than GHA would in the display, and in a manner that you can physically control is somehow counterproductive has my mind in knots. Could you explain your position better?

I'm attaching a badly drawn idea of what I'm trying to say. You'll see that the inlet chamber is on the right and the pump chamber would be on the left. Non of what I'm saying is "factual science", it's just what I've come to understand over the years. By having the "middle" chamber it has an actual place to remove the bubbles. If your system was not making bubbles before you got your overflow synced, the plumbing wouldn't be your problem now. What is happening now is that your overflow is correctly mixing the air to water ratio and trapping microbubbles. These are just flowing right on through the trap because the water is so heavily mixed and your pump is moving water very quickly, thus the contact time through your current set up is not long enough to purge the bubbles. I bet if you slowed the pump it would go back to the way it was before you got it dialed in. The problem here is you want it to run as it is now that it is dialed in.

I asked you yesterday if you got a bigger pump when you upsized the tank but we never got back in touch. Chatzy now. I'm still saying that the baffles are backwards. There is no place that the bubbles will be purged from in that pic. The bubbles travel down, under, and back up yet the water line is such that the bubbles are never forced to the top. They are always under the water line.

The cart will certainly hold up. Give me the dimensions of the one you want. Let's just say I have access to "some". I might even have one in the garage for you. Do you mind if it's used? I bought my reservoir from Tractor Supply but there was a place in Burnett selling them cheaper but that's a long drive.

Bozak, Steve right?, you really should swing by sometime just to look at it. You may be surprised when you see how well the dimensions work together. You might change your mind. I'm willing to work with you and negotiate a fair price. You'd probably be surprised at what we could work out. Unless you've moved, I know you could fit this right in your entryway. Yes MV, lol, in house financing.

I've got one you can borrow.

A friend of mine has decided it is time to leave the hobby as well. He has asked if I could help spread the word for him as he is not a "forum type guy". He wishes not to create an account to sell this tank. Please PM me for information and I will forward his phone number to you. There are not any recent pictures. If you know what a BioCube looks like, then you have a pretty good idea what this tank looks like. Included are recent bulbs, Korallia powerhead water jugs, about 20lbs of live rock, a 5 year old clown fish that could probably live in freshwater, sand bed, and some corals I have given him over the years including mushrooms, zoas, pipe organ etc. The tank has been running for about 5 years that I know of. There was some algae problems about 7 months back that we addressed and cleaned up. He has decided that with his young twins and new home purchase that the tank is not getting the attention it needs. Asking price is $200. Please PM me for info. Thanks.

Forgot the extremely large MRC dual chamber calcium reactor (used but clean), new Milwaukee regulator/solenoid. Controlled by Reef Keeper II. I also have small CO2 bottles. I'll probably find lots more stuff as time moves on.

LEAVING THE HOBBY So I've decided that these days motorbikes are way more important to me than reefing. With the house still shifting and my reluctance to get the foundation thing fixed, I've decided to see if anyone in town wants a really big tank. I've never been able to enjoy it set up due to the foundation issue. I am being lazy, and honest at least, I don't have any pictures of the items at this point. I can certainly post for someone with enough interest. Of course at this point I want to list this as a package deal. Not going to break it up and part out. I will let the sale ride for 6 months before parting out, so I'm kinda saying don't even bother asking. A partial listing, 380g acrylic tank 84"L x 34"T x 30"W, 2 corner overflows. matching Oak stand and canopy approximately 400lbs NIB Caribsea aragonite approximately 300-400 lbs of dry reef rock "Caribsea reef bones" before they dropped dry rock. about 7 large leaf bags full. NIB Tunze wave box with the extra heavy magnet mounts for 3/4" and up glass. NIB Reef Keeper with PH probe, DC8 controller and other bits Euroreef CS12-5x4RC upgraded to SPE5 Eheim 1262 needle wheel pumps (upgrade alone is $1,600), This was a $3,000 skimmer before upgrading to the SPE5 pumps. Think closer to $5,000 delivered ready to run. This really is the largest skimmer you will see in someone's home. You will laugh when people say "my new huuuuuuuge skimmer". Reeflo Dart pump NIB 1/2 HP inline chiller with digital controls built in. Used but in great shape. custom built acrylic sump. This takes up most of the space in the stand and is about 150g. A handful of used but working Ice Cap ballasts. 2 660 ballasts and 1 250w MH. 1 660 will need a harness. I don't have anything for the lighting of this tank. I was planning on using natural sunlight for this project as was shown in previous threads. Magnavor Great White algae cleaner. A full set of Novus cleaners (3 bottles of different compounds) for acrylic and felt cleaning pads. The tank looked great when last set up. I have decided I want to buy more Ducati's instead. I will take into serious consideration for trades containing Ducati Motorcycles. A partial plus cash trade would include a clean M620 or M750 Monster for the Misses, a super clean 900SS pre 99, small displacement bevel, or a Super Light. Straight trades would be for an 848, 06 Sport Classic 1,000DS (with Termi or Zard), S2, or S4. Asking price is $8,000. This is a number I'm tossing out do to the "rules" of the site. I will consider offers. I'm not in a hurry to sell, so don't think I'll be giving it away. I can help with delivery. For my asking price I will deliver from Round Rock (central) to San Antonio (South), Dallas (North), Houston (East) and not sure how far West I'll go. For less, you will have to transport it yourself. I would consider a finance option with half of negotiated price down and options for recovery in the event of.... A few searches containing key words and my user name will bring up some pictures of the tank and skimmer. Once set up and running, I will help hook you up with corals and fish both from my current tank and other cost saving "alternatives". Mike.

I did and nuked my tank. Very random as it had been running for months. Make sure to run an ORP meter that can shut down the unit if the ozone levels get to high.

But Will, what defines why one coral is significantly "better" than another? How is it possible that there is a "best" coral? Unlike a piece of machinery that can be compared to another for craftsmanship, usability, reliability, fitment, practicality and so forth, they all just sit in our tanks and look nice. Looking nice does not mean "best".

Acro, he was nominating Mark. We'd all love to watch a Mr. Saltwater episode were Mark nukes his own tank for our pleasure.

Any of you that ride and won't be at the frag swap, I expect to see you at the rally this year. www.harvestclassic.org Platinum Sponsor, Mike.

I've been able to rent cars with cash. I pay cash at the airport for tix. Pay cash for hotel rooms. When and only if I must, I get a prepaid Visa card to make online transactions. Normally I plan for events and pay with bank checks in advance for what I need online. I don't mind waiting an extra 3-4 days to get my items knowing that I won't later be ripped off.

Way to vague a statement there. If you don't want to give any info as to what it's for, then there are several great ones available in the for sale section. Did you check there first?