Reburn

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I don't believe it. I'll need you to hold a newspaper with today's date on it and take a picture. [emoji12] Congrats bud! Seeing is believing Ty. You should help him uncrate it. Once he figures out Felix uses a whole box of screws to put his crates together.

Looking good!!!!!!

Whoop!!!!!!!!!

I agree with you Ty about adjusting bubble rate to match the desired ph rather then 100% relying on the controller.

I'm going to be using the "toXIc method" to tune my CaRx. Which is set a stable effluent rate and use your controller to slowly decrease ph by 0.05 each time. Bubble rates vary due to speed of effluent, size of reactor, amount of media, etc. if I remember correctly he advocates a very fast drip / stream. http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tuning-your-calrx-alternate-method-thats-too-easy.202048/

Thanks. I think an acclimation box will go on the shopping list. I have heard they are a good idea with wrasses anyway. They are a good idea for wrasses. Right now I have 2 synergy reef fall out shelters. They are nice. They are a bit delicate assembling and you must follow the instructions. One they are assembled they are decently sturdy. I have ordered a couple elite aquatics acclimation boxes and they should be in any day now. One thing is the reef synergy no longer come with holes in the lid, the holes make it very easy to turkey baste food right to the fish. A set of true acrylic drill bits should be in every DIY reefers tool box. I use mine frequently. This is the set I have. I think I found them for around $30. https://www.amazon.com/Norseman-Acrylic-Point-Drill-Black/dp/B003BQOFFQ?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top

That sucks I'm sorry to hear that. I still use a colander Or one of my acclimation boxes. The acclimation boxes with a hinged lid and holes in the bottom are best. You can use it to catch the fish as well as move them over and if need be leave in the acclimation chamber in the DT tank.

Remember to use stainless steel nails on the hardi backer at the tub and red guard those seams

I'm ready to start chopping PVC to get this baby ready!!!

Doesn't trust worthy friend and criminal mastermind conflict. Must be Ty. Keep your tank stable while changing everything.

Ty is going to be the expert on fallow times. I think 76 days fallow, meaning no fish in the display will suffice. And don't give me too much credit for the QT procedure. It is Nuxx's procedure. I just learn fast. For what it's worth it takes a hot minute to learn how to run a QT. I lost some fish when I first started. They can be kinda difficult to find their stride.

Don't feel too bad about the fish. Honestly those of us that qt commonly lose fish in qt. it's kinda the dark side of the hobby that no one talks about. Look at it this way. In qt there is nothing for a fish to pick at, no pods, no worms, absolutely barren. Some fish just can't take the stress of a bare bottom qt without sand and rock. The only thing they get to eat is what you give them and it's a vicious circle. They are stressed so they don't eat which makes them sick and not want to eat and they don't want to eat so they get sicker. 10% of qt is treating diseases and the other 90% is conditioning to you and to eat frozen / prepared foods. Another member and I were just talking last week about how we hate running qt's. But at the end of the day getting the fish disease free and conditioned is what's best for the display community. Generally speaking if a fish can make it through qt and makes it into the display they are bomb proof and will almost certainly survive.

1) Wks 2,3,4, do you dose the Prazipro and Paraguard both on same day, or skip the Paragurad on that day?2) On Day 7 do you do the water change first, then dose the Paraguard? I feel like that's kind of obvious, but might as well ask... Both Paraguard and prazipro on the same day.Yes after change and then redose Paraguard. Make sure to not be running a skimmer or carbon they will suck out the meds.

Wrasses are interesting little fish but very sensitive. A lot of wrasses don't move well. Even tank to tank in the same house. I have experienced this same thing myself. I have even had them thriving in QT to just decline in 3 days and die. What I was told by a long time wrasse enthusiast is wrasses don't handle stress well at all of any kind. Some do better then others.

Yea that's it........ Says my older mini me and his REALTOR....... hahahahahaha

My rock ended up baking for 18 months instead of the planned 6.........

Very good explanation of cpvc. It's also referred to as the devil. Why it's on your water softner is anyone's guess. It doesn't need it and it shouldn't be there. As far as your tank, talk is cheap......if I had a dollar for every time I hear my tank is shipping soon I'd have a bunch of dollars. Felix is a good guy and it's definitely worth the wait. The oh so long day dragging wait. I'll believe it when I see pictures of the tank getting on the truck.

So I worked out another kink yesterday. I'm running the tank at 80. When the halides turned in I could see a steady increase over the 5 hr photo period to 82 degrees. Some days 81.6, 81.7. So I have been contiplating cutting 200mm fans into the top of the halides to pull air through the casing and vent it up. If you have been following the thread you know I decided to run my mogul based halides without the glass. Since they are 20" reflectors I just didn't want to put the weight on the light rack and also the only way you can get the glass out to change the lamp is by pulling the glass out for the back. Thanks Hamilton for that bad design...... This makes it impossible to do when the rack is in the air. Now I did design the rack where I can pull it down fairly easily. I decided it wouldn't hurt to put the glass back in to see if that helped the heat problems. All in all it took 30 minutes to take the rack down and put the glass back in and rehang the rack. The result yesterday is the tank only rose 0.5 degrees. I'm quite happy and am going to be running with the glass in the fixture it looks like. I still haven't completely scrapped the fan project but I'm going to table it for the time being and monitor the temperature of the halides and tank when they are running for a couple days.

Hah, yup. Glad its being used to fuel the advancement of this reef forum. Honestly you're probably better off either just using outdoor air for your simmer intake OR using soda lime to remove CO2 to the skimmer intake. DUDE? WTF? I wanna see a jungle of pothos ivy since it can't be killed and his c02 at 950. Don't spoil my dreams.But seriously, everyone says skimmer line drawing outside air will work I have done it and your like, nah bro, some idiot says get some house plants and your like that's is a marvelous idea......and for the record indoor plants with grow lights usually gets the cops called on you.

You could always. #breatheless. Or try to get some house plants

I don't know if either are available locally I Amazon almost everything nowadays. I just picked up a cobalt oxypro for like 35 on Amazon. You really need a proper air stone in my experience.

Look to be either blacker ice or snowflake I can't ever keep the 2 designs straight. I didn't know tim so I couldn't say for sure.

Ive done exactly what you did. I found that the airstone didn't make as much as an impact as I hoped and it basically turned the area I had it in into a skimmer compartment where the Skimmate just formed on the walls and was a pain to clean off. I have had much better success running an 3/8" airline outside for my skimmer.

Paraguard is only effective against velvet if dosed daily at lights out for 21 days and only effective against ich if dosed daily for 30 days. 3 days isn't doing much really. Even for fin rot they reccomend 7 days. The reason behind dosing at lights out is the Paraguard breaks down faster with uv exposure. My QT method taught by Nuxx Week 1 Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone) Week 2 prazipro Monday, Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone) Week 3 prazipro Monday, Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone) Week 4 prazipro Monday, Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone) Weeks 5-8 observe, resume skimmer, carbon or chemipure, stop airstone Notes: Paraguard will bun the decorative fins of fish like Yasha gobies or flasher wrasses. They will grow back. I use a Jebao Doser to dose Paraguard since. Paraguard has a pretty wide safety margin for being overdosed (4x). I dose prazipro in half doses 12 hrs apart on the first day of the week. Prazipro is known to create a bacterial bloom that will lower the dissolved oxygen of the water.