Planeden Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 When I started this hobby, I was trying to take the advice of most people and going to use RO/DI water. But I was having trouble with the initial expense of the system, the labor of installation was too much to counter my inherant laziness, and there was too much waste water for my tastes with nothing useful for me to do with it. So I found, and started playing with, an alternative. The Drs. Foster and Smith tap water filter with an initial cost of $40 including one $20 filter. It has a valve that hooks onto the sink with a replacement aerator. And there is zero waste water (if you discount the cup or two used to get the flow rate correct and whaterever i slop onto the floor due to laziness and idiocy). I will say that the aerator is pretty cheap, so I take it off and put the real one back on after each batch. I started using it, and I think I was getting about 50 gallons per filter, for apprxomiately $0.40 per gallon ($0.33 if you buy filters in bulk). It was giving me about 11 ppm on my TDS meter. Not being that sure how water works, I was still using prime in case the chlorine would be the last to go. Then I had a thought. The way the hook up is so simple, I bought a second one and installed two in series. Now TDS is 0 ppm. Not being a waterologist, I can't be sure, but it would seem that 0 ppm is 0 ppm whether it comes from an RO/DI system this filter system. It also does this at between 7 and 10 gph. I am now tracking how much water I can make with each filter. I think the way that it should work out, I will be getting a lot more life out of the second filter that just gets 11 ppm TDS to filter out. One thing i need to watch out for is that when the filter goes out it will spill stuff into the water increasing the TDS over the tap water. So, I will need to monitor the first filter or it will fowl my second one very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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