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muddybluewater

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Everything posted by muddybluewater

  1. I have 250w XM 15k and vho 110w super actinics
  2. The only fish that I know of that eats red bugs is the Dragonface pipefish.
  3. It can contain heavy metals and many other impurities that we try to remove from our systems.
  4. I agree, canisters don't have a place in salt water
  5. This is where my info came from. It is copied from Eric Borneman and is not my writing. I am trying to get the site up. Here is the information from that page ""Suggested Treatment Protocol Based on my observations and work described here, I suggest the following as a treatment protocol for Acropora colonies that have been colonized by the parasitic copepod, Tegastes acroporanus ("red bugs") as a modification of the novel protocol developed by Dorton. The process is more labor intensive, but should be more effective in preventing any future need to treat Tegastes-parasitized Acropora in the display tank (provided quarantine is utilized for any new coral acquisitions). It should also help to reduce the current epizootic within reef aquaria by limiting the potential for spread between tanks by trading or purchase of Tegastes-colonized fragments or colonies. 1. Assume that every Acropora in the tank is colonized, even if there are not visible copepods on the colony. rationale: copepods are cryptic on normally colored colonies, can be cryptic on pale colonies, and are small enough to be easily missed by examination through tank glass or even by direct observation with the naked eye. Furthermore, the copepods are motile, and swim between colonies. Therefore, any colonies removed for treatment may leave unnoticed indivuiduals on other colonies or allow for copepods that abandon hosts being removed for treatment to locate uncolonized Acropora. 2. All Acropora colonies should be removed from the tank and placed into a container for examination. This can be perfored one colony at a time. A magnifying glass, magnifying lamp, dissecting scope or some other method should be used to slowly and carefully examine each colony from every possible angle. The corals will tolerate extended handling periods out of water to facilitate examination. The copepods will be covered with a smooth and somewhat shny carapace and with coral mucus and a thin film of water. Without examination from multiple light incidence angles, it is possible that individuals will go undetected. If a colony is too large or too densely branched to allow for a complete examination, consider it to be colonized. Any colonies that are determing to be free of copepods can be placed into a quarantine tank without treatment, but I would suggest reexamination prior to reintroduction to the main display tank. rationale: Examination by the naked eye is insuficient to detect all copepods. 3. All Acropora colonies found to have copepods present should be treated in a treatment tank or container where dose levels and colonies can be carefully monitored. The treatment tank can be large or small, and can be used to treat many colonies at once or one at a time. The water should be circulating strongly across colonies to not only for drug exposure but to help dislodge dead copepods. Following treatment, each colony should be re-examined in water under magnification to ensure 100% kill rates. Copepods still attached to the coral can be probed with a needle, pin, pipette or syringe and removed from the colony. If copepods are found to still exhibit any motion, retreatment should occur immediately. rationale: treatment in the tank should be avoided for several reasons: a) it will be impossible to assess whether or not a 100% kill rate has been achieved; b) in tank treatment will result in mass loss of other suscpetible species including amphipods, shrimps, lobsters, crabs, polychaetes, nematodes, copepods, and possibly other invertebrates which have not been tested for toxicity to the drug ; and c) repeated treatments can result in resistance making future treatments more difficult. 4. Treatment dosage appears to flexible, if not variable. Given the apparent low toxicity to corals even at elevated dosages, I would suggest a dose level equal or higher (up to 10x) than suggested by Dorton. Dorton suggestes three separate treatments of six hours. Upon examination of treated colonies, six hours appears to be insufficient for a 100% kill rate, while 12 hours seems to be more effective. In the one test where coral mortality was observed, the treatment time was only six hours, and in all other tests, no ill effects to the coral were seen with extended treatment times. It appears that time, and not dosage level, is the critical variable towards providing 100% kill rates for the copepods. Regardless of the dose or treatment duration, all colonies should be carefully examined before they are removed from treatment. For colonies being treated that are too large or densely branched to allow for examination, the treatment should be continued for 24 hours with careful monitoring to ensure that the colonies are enduring the treatment well and that the water does not become fouled from excessive mucus production, other fauna killed during treatment, or other stressors. If these conditions occur, treatment tank water should be dumped into buckets, sterilized by the addition of bleach to the water, and disposed down a sanitary sewage line. The treatment tank should then be refilled with tank water and new drug added to the water. 5. All treated corals and completely free of Tegastes acroporanus, as well as those examined and found to be uncolonized (#2 above), should be placed into a quarantine tank filled with tank water filtered through a coffee filter or other filtration apparatus. The quarantine tank should have filtration, water flow and light sufficient to keep treated colonies alive for five days. 6. No Acropora should remain in or be placed back into the main display tank for five days. This is the longest period of time it has taken for any Tegastes acroporanus to survive without a host from observations to date. This assumes that there are no other surrogate hosts for this species, and that the observations of death from 3-5 days without a host are realistic of what would occur in a display tank. rationale: It is possible, even likely, that during the removal of colonized Acropora, some copepods swim off the colony into the tank. They will seek out other hosts. It is also possible that some are in the tank at any moment seeking new hosts, even without the process of colony removal. As far as can be ascertained, they are direct developers and thus do not have a free-swimming larval stage and they do not lay eggs on the host or substrates that can later hatch. However, they can live without a host for several days. Ensuring that any copepods left in the tank after removal of hosts die requires, at my best estimate, 3-5 days. I suggest five days to be conserative. 7. After five days, colonies in quarantine should be re-examined under magnification and if found to be free of copepods, can be returned to the display tank. If copepods are found on any colonies, repeat steps 3-7." _____________________ Eric Borneman
  6. muddybluewater

    Hello!

    Welcome and thanks for joining.
  7. Red bugs do not lay eggs they are live birth. Their life span with out a host is 3-4 days, They will only host acros. They will not host millis or montis. I treated my acros out of my tank in a QT for 5 days and it has been several weeks with no sign of any bugs. One 5 day treatment. I treated them for 12 hours and then did a 80% water change with tank water. I did a second water change on day 3. I then left them in the QT for 2 more days . On the 5th day I retreated for 2 hours and then returned everything to the display tank. my 2 cents
  8. How much water did you add the salt to? You should always mix the salt over night.
  9. Welcome, thanks for joining in.
  10. Approximately 1/2 cup per gallon
  11. Good. They are filter feeders
  12. T-5 come in 48"(54w) max lenght. You could use 4 30" Ho T5(31w). VHO come in 60"(140W). Either would work for supplimentation. Led lights are used for night time lights.
  13. A couple of things natural sea water is actually 1.026. Not much will it make it at 1.035. Things you need for saltwater 1 Patience 2 Patience 3 Patience 4 ask as many questions as you can 5 Research all purchases, you can waste a lot of money in this hobby 6 Saltwater is very different than FW 7 The larger the system the more stable and easier to keep 8 reef keeping is an addiction, Welcome
  14. Just keep an eye on the want to sell threads. Some one is always selling tanks for one reason or another. It is better to do things right the first time. It may seem expensive but will save you money over spending it twice by making mistakes
  15. Try a tunze osomlator, it has a 8' head height. cost under $25
  16. Get rid of both of the filters. Canisters really don't have a place in saltwater. Yes you would need an overflow box if your tank is not drilled. The other option is to have it drilled. Dave at Epic reef can drill it for you. I am a big believer in skimmers, I also feel that Octopus skimmers are the best value on the market. You should definitely put in a sump with a refugium. I would build a sump out of a 20g long. You can buy one at petsmart for $25 and another $15 for acrylic or glass and silicone you have a sump.
  17. I don't like phyto, IME it just causes problems. If you feel you need to feed corals use oyster feast or similar. It can't hurt to rinse the mysis, try it for a couple weeks and see if it helps. The cyano is feeding off the phos and waste in the substrate. That is why high amouts of flow are required in a reef tank to keep it suspended in the water column until it can be removed. The other source of removal is CUC. I like skimmers for removing waste. I know subsea does not. There are many methods in this hobby to achieve the same goal.
  18. As stated above the rock could very well be the problem. Something else to think about is what you are feeding. Flake food is also a source of phos. Pellet is better or frozen. If you are using frozen, thaw it and then strain the water out. Add only the solid to your tank and see if that helps.
  19. I am still waiting for the 55g
  20. Go horns!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  21. come on you don't need info just send him $155. He does have 2 posts here and has them listed for sale on several other sites. You can always hope that there are no pests in his tank. Sorry for the sarcasm but it seems strange.
  22. I have not thought of that place in years. Great b-fast tacos.
  23. That is why you use a GFI. It could have killed everything in the tank, and possibly you.
  24. When I said I had to change them out I meant that I had to have my electrician change them. They were on a 20 amp breaker and 12-2 wire. All of this per the 2008 NEC. My house is wired to the 2000 NEC and has 20amp breakers in it. Definitely look at you panel and see what size breaker you have. A 14-2 might be an issue with 20amps but I would have to look it up. I am not an electrician but do own a copy of the 2008 NEC.
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