caferacermike

It's all those extra PPM or TDS that are rejected from the membrane. Basically it takes about 4-5 gallons of "waste water" to produce 1 gallon of RO/DI. I doubt a MAG9 will amount to a hill o beans coming out the end of a hose and forced through a sprinkler. You have way to much coefficient drag through the hose, near nothing GPM, a no load impeller, and that all equals a high head pressure on a non pressure producing pump. The impeller will cavitate and churn instead of push with to much back pressure on it.

Kkiel, did you stop at Darby's by any chance? Tiny place but when the corals are in, they are top notch.

I've had a few and can say they are very interesting. Easy and hardy enough. Problem is that I lost one to jumping, one to an overflow, and one inside a blue ribbon eel. Watch the prices. Rumor is that they are harvested about once a year for a short period near Mexico. Basically the further away from that time of year, the more expensive they are. Try not to pay more that $90.

Per our agreement, I'll call this evening. CManning, I bought the other Duncans last time they were listed. They are of great quality and you'll have no trouble fragging them. Best bet is to not frag it though as they look great all bundled up. Might only want to snip off 3-4 single heads from the outside edge and then let it heal up instead of fragging it into thirds. It just won;t look the same if you do. This is easily a small showpiece just the way it is.

PM sent for Acan.

The "book answer" is that you want to put your rock in first and then your sand. This is supposedly because rock placed on top of sand causes dead spots that create poor anaerobic areas that will eventually kill everything in the tank. Now that is what some of the books claim. The idea is to pack the sand around the rock so that the weight of the rock does not pack the sand together so tightly that water will not flow through it. The main problem I see with this is that your sharp pointed areas of your rock are now touching the glass bottom. Keep packing the weight on and it is all transferred to these points, thus causing stress that may crack your tank. Don't worry because the books say to place egg crate on the bottom of the tank first so that the rock won;t be directly on the glass. Personally I like to put about 1" of sand down first and then my rock. However I don't put the water in before the sand. That way I can place it where I want with a large spoon or other instrument.

Yeah but the problem is that it's not just about getting some light, hell we'd all run some cheap 75w light bulbs over our tanks if that's all it took. You can't grow much with a plain ol T12 on your big tank, no it takes several T12 VHO's or lots of T5's packed together with very specific reflectors, and at that halides still work better. It's all about the intensity of the light. That's why halides work so well.

I've seen several adequate fuges set up using the 75w flood light for plants. Just a little $7 clip reflector light and that bulb produced all kinds of algaes and mangroves.

I'd be in for some blasto. PM sent.

Personally I think it's a waste of time and energy. Think this through real quick, you'd have to run it twice as long or your corals would end up with half the intensity of just running 2 bulbs. So for it to be beneficial his light would need to be on for at least 16 hours to mimic most reef tanks.

I've only ran Seachem Reef for over 4 years now. I have ran at least 10 buckets of salt through my 75g in that amount of time.

Plus 1 for just ordering a unit from Buckeye. The concept and materials are all pretty much exactly the same. Try to avoid Kent as their older models used to have a proprietary system, you can't just use any old filters. I'm not sure if they've changed that. I'm running a 300GPD unit from Aquafx, a Mako with upgrades. 1 sediment filter, 2 chloramine filters, 3 100GPD Dow membranes, 2 DI canisters, plus gauge and dual inline TDS meter. Sells for about $500 new on their site.

Mine is dead silent.

Got my order last night, very nice pieces.

I'd like the blow pops, small branch of candy canes, and dragon eye zoanthids. Pm sent.

+1 for Caribsea aragonite.

I've got 150g of RO/DI always at the ready and can make 300GPD if you need some. You'll need to bring your own buckets.

What happens if I choose not to correct it?

Haha that's hilarious. Looks like Robb and are were thinking the exact same thing at the exact same time.

That's cyano bacteria. Not really an algae but just as much a distraction. It's considered to be a sign of overfeeding, over crowding and/ or still water. What type of flow do you have in the tank? What size tank? Inhabitants? Feeding schedule? Do you do frequent water changes? How long has the tank been set up?

If you think you can get me $4K by doing my taxes for me, I'll take it.

Jump in on the Reefcleaners group buy. Can't get them cheaper and of a better quality. John makes sure they are collected in salt water and are sprouting. Some are collected by others in fresh water, these can be killed by putting them in salt water.

What do I get for 1 of everything and how much? I could be seriously interested, make me interested.

Oddysea makes those units. They can be had almost anywhere for that price and make a decent moonlight source, but of course the reputation thing always comes to mind.

I use either my spare Eheim 1262 or my spare Tunze 6060 to mix it for about 4 hours. I like the Tunze because I have it on magnets, that way I can place it near the bottom and aim it so it swirls around in circles. I don't use a heater. In fact I've never ran a heater on any of my tanks.