caferacermike

Ah but what happens when you need to put your hand all the way into the bottom of the sump to repair a skimmer or pull that snail off the pump intake that got stuck there? Yeah I like space.

Just felt like playing numbers for a bit. As another reference I'll compare the values of my own designed and built sump for my 400g tank. My tank's dimensions would equal 84x30x4= 10,080CI/231= 43.63 gallons of back siphon. My sump's overall dimensions are 60x24x16= 23,040Ci/231= 99.7 gallons I have the sump divided at 10", this leaves 6" space available. Let's do the math 60x24x6= 8,640 CI .Just shy of the 10,800CI from the above 4" of siphon. In gallons this translates to 37.4g. You can see I'm about 5g shy of my ideal goal. This does not concern me much for 2 reasons. First is that I have already calculated the speed of water through my sump and know that my return chamber that leads to my external pump will always be lower than my main 2 chambers. It will only have about 6" of water in it at any time. The chamber is 12x24x16 total volume The second reason is that 4" is plenty of insurance with lots of room to play with without getting wet floors. The math is First 2 chambers while operating leaves a volume of 48x24x6= 6,912 CI The return chamber in operation leaves a volume of 12x24x10= 2,880CI Together that is 9,792 CI /231= 42.38g of available space. Exactly enough. It's just all in how you do your math.

Best bet is to figure out the amount of water MIGHT backfeed into the sump. I use 4" of tank measurement to calculate the space needed in my sump to catch extra water. I divide my length x width x height by 231 to calculate gallons. So if my 75 gallon tank is 48"L x 18"W and I want to contain 4" in my sump= 3,456 cubic inches divided by 231= 14.96 or 15g of tank volume to be safe. Being that your sump will happen to be exactly half that amount I'd say run your baffles at 8-9" to be on the safe side. I only ever get about 2" of back siphoned water in my sump but be it that day that I'm not home and I've lost power, it would be that day when a snail or something pushed my return line deeper into the tank. I'm all about insurance, not so much wet floors. If you make your baffles 12" tall then let's do the math. 30x12x6=2,60 CI divided by 231= 9.4g of water in holding capacity. This is exactly 2.5" of your 75g tank's capacity. If you can guarantee that you'll only ever see 2" of water or less in the event of a power failure then feel free to run 12" of baffle. I wouldn't. I'd play it safe at 8".

Word is that 2 polarized camera lens filters placed one on top of each other is supposed to help ID tempered glass. I believe that you spin one filter and if it makes a "+" sign then it is tempered. I'll need to do some digging to see if that's for sure.

If it is acrylic it is an easy repair. Generally some Weld-On solvent in a syringe will join the pieces back together. Buy Weldon at your local Regal Plastics or ask around to see if anyone has any extra.

It's a way to voluntarily donate money to help cover the costs of running a site like this. This site does not have a constant stream of revenue to help Admin cover the costs of hosting and updating the site, basically most of the costs of ARC comes directly out of Admin's pocket. If there were to ever be any extra cash left over it would be used to improve the meetings, possibly helping to cover the costs of having guest speakers. They don't come and speak for free. By donating you will also receive a few extra perks like an expanded PM box and photo uploading. On the upper left of the Home page you'll see a line for "support ARC". It will lead you to this page, http://www.austinreefclub.com/index.php?ac...&CODE=index

I've seen a lot of mushrooms melt under halides.

Tunze unit from Aquatek. Hands down the best.

Pinpoint PH monitors, http://www.americanmarineusa.com/ , the hobbyist standard for several years. Just make sure to get the AC adapter. I was sick of always buying expensive 9v batteries for it only to have them last a month or 2. Also when the battery wears out the readings are inaccurate. This leads to headaches. Another version, and in my opinion cheaper, would be a Reef Keeper 2 (RFKII) programmable controller. For about $300 total you get the PH monitor, temp sensor, light controller, etc... in a smart, easy to read all in one package. Note: while searching for the RK2 it appears that Digital Aquatics has made a recent change to their product lineup and have replaced our beloved RK2 with a much more expensive Reef Keeper Elite model.

DUAL! It is very very important. If you have only a RO unit you would splice it in just before and just after the RO membrane. Reasons. 1: You will be measuring the output of your prefilters, probably around 400ppm. When they begin to rise it might be wise to replace the prefilters thus increasing the usable life of the more expensive membrane. 2: You will be able to keep track of the output of the membrane, between 5-20ppm, and monitor it's performance. If it begins to rise it is time for a new membrane. If you have an RO/DI unit the standard is to place it before and after the DI canister. Reasons: 1: You'll be measuring the output of the prefilters and membrane. Unfortunately you'll lose the ability to keep an eye on the prefilters but if you replace them about every 4 months you should be able to get a year to a year and a half out of the membrane. If you see the RO output begin to climb while the DI output stays at or near 0 ppm, it is definitely time for new membranes. 2: If you see the DI output begin to rise to that just less than or equal to your RO output, it is definitely time to replace the DI resin. However if your RO output is still less than 20ppm your membrane should still be good. Using the dual inline helps you to monitor your entire RO RO/DI system to help make proper tuneups. In return your water will be of higher quality and you'll save money by only replacing what is actually necessary.

Welcome to ARC. I'm not to far away should any unexpected eventful events occur. I'd also be willing to help out with simple maintenance such as water changes. Have Kyle call me so we can work out the details.

Welcome. It does seem that many MAASTARDS have given up as the common goal of that site is no longer dedicated to the "local" hobbyist. You just missed a nice meeting over the weekend were the same sentiment was mentioned several times over.

I like using the Seachem test kits because they come in the little plastic first aid type boxes. It's nice not to have everything all mixed up in a kitchen drawer some where. On a budget AP makes a store kit that comes in a plastic tackle box, another ideal way to go about it. The simpler the test and set up, the more likely you'll use it. Elos are considered to be the high end kits now, a few years ago it was Salifert. The problem with Salifert was that there was a long shipping delay and word got around that the chemicals were breaking down in transport. That is one thing I've heard over and over is to use the test kits quickly. The reactants tend to break down and become inaccurate over time. It's hard to go wrong with the free testing done at the LFS. The kits are fresh and most of the employees have done the tests so often it would be difficult for them to make a mistake. Just know that you might need to wait around a little for an employee to become freed up to do the test if the shop is busy. BTW, a trend in San Antonio is that Aquarium Designs is now charging about $5 or more (depends upon what you want tested) for a reef tank test. Let's not see this happen in Austin. Free testing allows people to test frequently and possibly prevent or catch a problem early on. People will think twice about paying for testing and that can lead to tank meltdowns. Many hobbyists would rather get out of the hobby than deal with a total system failure. It is cost effective to give the test away for free and keep a customer than it is to drive them out of the hobby forever. We all use the little blue and white inline TDS meters that are sold on Ebay and at the RO/DI suppliers like Buckeye Field Supply for about $25.

Is that you ACE? As was pointed out it can be difficult to just state "here is how to do it". If it were that easy, you'd have already read that book and there would be no need to ask. If I were you I'd try to get in touch with your local "builder", that guy happens to be known as Prof here at ARC. The builder's username is Hobogato in San Antonio. What they do is build custom sumps based upon what you want as a customer, not necessarily some product thrust on the market that you need to make work for you. As far as pre-built sumps go Precision Marine (PM) and a hard to find company Trigger Fish systems make decent sumps. I've been generally happy with my Trigfish but there are a few things I might have changed had I built it myself. Not to mention I way over paid a retail price of $390 for it from a retailer that is no longer with us. The same sump could have been made locally for $200. In today's market I'd be looking for something that has a filter sock area, an area for your skimmer, a pump return and a refugium area. As far as size goes, I'd personally prefer to never use a sump smaller than 30g. It needs to be able to do what you want it to do plus it needs to also be able to handle some extra tank water in the event of a power failure as some will back siphon to the sump. A 20g might just do the trick on a 40g but it could also feel cramped and hard to service, not to mention the disappointment of a wet carpet should it ever fill all the way up. You ask about what order most run their set ups. Mainly you'll see a first chamber with some sort of media or filter sock. This is where the tank water comes into the sump. By adding a sock, live rock rubble or a foam media you'll help soften the falling water sound. As of late most people are turning to the socks for this as they are very cheap and reusable. Washing and replacing once a week will keep your water crystal clear. Some will then add a pile of live rock rubble below that to increase the bio filter area and also create a great place for "pods" to grow on. After that comes an area for the skimmer. Onto the fuge if you have one or to the return pump. I prefer to run an external media chamber to house some carbon from time to time. I'm not real keen on keeping it in the sump because then you end up disturbing the sump to remove and replace the media. Now I shut off a valve, pull a hose off and walk the entire reactor to the sink. There are a million answers to what skimmer, I prefer Euroreef RS-80 for under 100g. The newer line of Octopus brand skimmers are doing a great job for a little less money as well.

2nd for Prof, Dave. Keep in mind that the bottom of a tank is probably tempered glass. Tanks are often drilled in the side to create an overflow where there was not one before. What is offered might not look just like what is offered at the store from a manufacturer workign with all new materials.

It has been sold. Thanks.

I've never seen one of these for sale anywhere. I've not ever seen anything as interesting for sale anywhere. I had an opportunity to order one and I jumped on it. Unfortunately it is to small for me. I would have to empty the octo nano for me to want to keep it right now. This might be perfect for your pico tank. This fish is known as several different common names. I'll list them. Spike fin goby Spikefin goby Fire Prawn goby Paradise fish goby. This is an included picture borrowed from another website. I have not had time to try and figure out a good way to take a picture of this fish. (Note: I do not take claim for taking this photo nor do I make any extravagant claim that my fish is an LE version of this fish or the same fish in the picture, only for reference.) This fish is small and normally retails for $125 online plus your usual $40 shipping fees. I'll offer it at $90. Don't wait to long to think about it or I will simply add it to the 75g tank. If interested get back to me quickly, I'm also accepting reasonable offers. But by 8:00pm tonight it will live in the 75g tank. I will also allow you to pick a mate for this little fish. I have either an appropriate sized candy or tiger pistol shrimp to choose from that I will give to you for free.

I'd think that with a corner tank you could put both pumps back to back in the corner of the tank pointed out in parallel with the other glass. That way it can follow the "curve" of the tank and collide in the front of the tank and create a disrupted flow.

Anemones do much better under the intense light provided from metal halide lamps. With a need for 48" 2x 250w would be ideal. Then you'd probably want some supplemental "color" lighting, or actinics, to let the color of the creature glow. Lighting options are limitless. Your best bet is to ask around and see if folks will let you drop in, this can also be done at your LFS by comparing set ups at each tank, then decide what you like the best. Lighting can be the single largest argument, and one of the most important, amongst reef keepers. Without knowing every single aspect of your tank it really just becomes a bunch of people shouting out options, they may all be good ones at that. What it comes down to the most is what YOU want and what you wish to pay for it. I would recommend either a Maristar or Geissman for a complete all in one fixture, and if you have a large canopy I'd say to custom build using 2x Icecap 250w electronic ballasts with Lumenarc reflectors and an Icecap 660 fluorescent ballasts with 2 48" long T5 bulbs in 460nm actinic using individual TEK reflectors. Both options could easily set you back $1,200 or more. The thing is though is that you'd have the best lighting possible and that you would not have any troubles from it for years and years. A lot can be said about avoiding frustrating circumstances with this hobby. Lighting can quickly become a nightmare when something suddenly stops working. And then again you can save a lot of money and find Coralife 48" fixture with 2x250w and 2x 96w PC actinics for around $600 with bulbs, a plug and play option. But with this your ballasts might be cheap Chinese units that might begin to fail within a year. You may be displeased with the smaller reflectors and poor light spread. I'd take the suggestions, write them down, and then see if you can find hobbyists or shops that have similar units running and visit them all to compare and see what you like the best.

Dangded meeting stuff. I had really wanted to make it by but other obligations prevented it. Shoulda called but forgot.

I'd do it but not sure when I can make it. I've got stuff going on before the meeting today and of course I need to be there as well. Any chance you'll be going to the meeting?

Get some heavy black foam, the kind with the large holes, cut it out in the middle to fit over the down pipe. The water will trickle through the foam killing the noise.

Will it fit in my tank?

Dorm room fridge chillers are a joke. Do more research and you'll find out why. The single most obvious point is that PVC and vinyl tubing are INSULATORS. Thus trapping the heat in the water and preventing the exchange of heat. You must have metal tubing for this to work. It should be pretty obvious to everyone. Your refrigerator, your AC unit, and our expensive hobby chillers DO NOT use plastic tubing for the heat exchanger. If they did the prices would be cut in half. No they use copper, which would be horrible for our reef tanks, and titanium which is very expensive thus the high price of a quality chiller. It's a very simple and basic principle. The plastic parts of your fridge are used on the inside to insulate it and keep it cold. Beer kegs, which need to be cooled very quickly, come in aluminum. Thick plastic kegs would take forever to cool down. But hey it's just my opinion.

Holy crap. $15 a piece for 12x10 AND tempered? The Misses went to Binswanger a few year back to get me 2x 6"x 12" tempered = $90. I knew I got taken on that deal but now I feel like throwing a rock through their front window.