JimD

Well crap, doesnt look like Im gonna be able to make it up north this weekend so if you want them, I guess theyre yours.... If you only want five, I can take the rest off your hands sometime next week..

I'll take them off your hands.. Love the lil cridders..

Cool, I have some things that may be usefull...

Yeah, lots of people were using thet light a few years ago, mainly to promote algae growth in the fuge. Bite the bullet and shell out for some quality T-5's if you dont want halides.

The first pic didnt show up on my laptop, the second looks to be pseudocorynactis for sure.. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/mantisfreak/pseudocorynactis.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php%3Fact%3Dfindpost%26pid%3D2538950&usg=__VuQENqUtOTOy69fUKXH_50VUMcE=&h=448&w=600&sz=43&hl=en&start=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=sc5HGrTbXTIePM:&tbnh=101&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpseudocorynactis%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1R2GCNV_en%26tbs%3Disch:1

Google image search 'aiptasia'... Youll find tons of information. These are definately considered a pest and if not controlled, can quickly take over a tank stinging everything in their path,. Possible remedies are peppermint shrimp (Lysmata Wurdemanni) and injecting with Joes juice, kalk paste or liquid calcium.

6.5k Iwasaki is a fine bulb, yes its very yellow/greenish but with a proper balance of 6.5k and actinics, you can achieve a look thats pleasing to the eye and still get the tremendous growth the Iwasakis are known for. I ran that bulb for many years.

Octos eat just about anything with eyeballs, good luck.. Maybe some bristleworms or an urchin but even they might become lunch. More flow and a good skimmer??

So when and where do we pick up the goods? Anyone closer to south Austin making the trip?

Sent, thanks!

Please make this two seperate polyps .. Thanks..

lol, No kidding! This will be my very first Acan...

Ok, put me down for two 'Golden Fleece" Acans... $42.50, thanks. I can pick up up in north Austin or meet someone farther south, let me know how to pay asap.

Where the he!! can I find that golden fleece on the site??

Please give me a second or two to checkout the site, I just saw this group order. I swear Ill be back in less that a half hour... Thanks.

lmao! Damm man! Thats cold!... Cool video, well made, informative and kinda entertaining.

Simply for a friendly and informative debate... " Jim is right, you have to be careful with the kalk mixture as the pH in there is very high. So, start with a low dose of kalk in your ATO. I'd start with 1 tsp/gallon and see how it affects your tank - that is, what your pH and Alk to make sure they don't go sky high. Adjust up or down as needed. Max dose on kalk is 2 tsp/Gallon." Since the effluent of Kalkwasser wheather mixed and settled or in flurry form is 12.4 either way, You're using much more kalk per dose using a flurry than you would if you mix and settle. You can theoreticly put a pound of kalk in a gallon of water and the Ph will still be 12.4 when saturated. The Ph wont increase, only decrease as you dilute the solution... " 2. The slurry in the bottom is lethal to top off pumps, so what I did was I have the tube that goes into the reservoir resting about 1-1.5" from the bottom. This makes sure I don't suck up any slurry. When the water level is close to the bottom of the reservoir the end inlet of my tubing, that's when I mix up more kalk/Top off water. Thats another benefit of using a reactor, no need to push the solution through a dosing pump, it gets forced out under pressure. What you're doing is working because you know the routine and needs of the tank. Basicly mixing the remaining kalk with fresh ro water, eventually settling. Id be curious what the Ph is as the resevoir empties. The pre-filter just throws good kalk down the drain. A well calibrated 24/7 Ph monitor is the only safe way to dose kalk via ATO... IMO!!!! Also lets you know when to recharge. #4, Another reason for a reactor, an air tight mixing chamber,.. It really is what works best for you.

No, the 'life' of the kalk is directly related to the ammount of evaporation which changes according to ambient humidity. Really guys, please ask questions and do some serious homework before using kalk, otherwise your heading for disater. Its not black and white and needs to be completely understood. Aww Mikey, and here all this time I thought we were best buds, compadres, amigos, bros... Darn.. rotf..

Stirrers run the same way as reactors, they stir, then turn off via a timer then settle, they do not run constantly. I suggest you do a lot more research before you think about using kalkwasser. Ph is how you tell when to mix, when to settle and when to recharge. Im not just making this stuff up as I go, Ive been using kalk in one form or another for over ten years so I kinda know what Im doing. "I don't think people who use it in their top-off reservoirs stir/mix it any more after initially adding it to the top-off water" What makes you "think" that? Do you know this for fact?

When using a kalk reactor, you want it to stir the solution for a period of time >then allow the solids to settle to the bottom<, you dont want to dose the slurry. Once the kalk has settled and the solution is clear then you want to set the reactor to dose top off. I think youll find that most people that use a reservoir do in fact mix, settle then dose. Keep in mind that kalk has an inherent Ph of 12.4 so you have to pay very close attention to your tank perameters, also, try to get your Ca and Alk levels where you want them using additives like Bionic and such, then use kalk to help maintain them...

I called you that Sunday, left a message, never heard back.

Reeflux on a Coralvue e-ballast with vho/t-5 actinics.

The problem isnt adding the new sand, its removing the old. If you attempt to remove the old sand while the tank is inhabited, there is a serious risk of a major cycle that could wipe out your tank. I would strongly suggest that you empty the tank, saving the water, then remove the old crushed coral and replacing it with the new sand.. Thus the reason for the no "easy way to do it"... Ive done it before in the past with no issues. The other possibility would be to remove a small ammout in weekly intervals. Good luck.

An older pic of my Pearlberry.. Love the way the blue tips glow...

I dont know about 50 but 10-25 sounds about right. I guess it depends on the source water and the rejection rate of the membrane as Mikey said. My tds before DI is right at 12ppm. Also, if you plan to add DI, get a 1 micron sediment filter to help prolong the life of the DI media and RO cart..