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bimmerzs

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Posts posted by bimmerzs

  1. Unless you are using totally dry live rock, you will have coralline spores in the tank already, you usually see spot's popping up around the 2-3 month mark if condition's are otherwise inline....notably phosphate level's which also inhibit coralline growth. There are both lower and mid light level types of coralline, maintaining your alk/ca and magnesium levels at stable level's will certainly help with coralline development. Keep in mind that coralline algae is a big consumer of magnesium, elevated level's are also problematic to some critter's most notably turbo snail's. Warmer tanks seem to have a harder time getting coralline going. You also need to keep an eye on salinity level's if dosing up 100ppm - 200ppm. YMMV http://tinyurl.com/apusrv4

    Cheers,

  2. wow really? So too much carbon, or too much GFO can irritate the stability of the tank? I only recently learned that activated charcoal raises phosphates, is that correct?

    Here's info on pretty much everything you would ever want to know about carbon, and how to choose what's best. http://joejaworski.wordpress.com/2008/05/09/does-a-reef-tank-need-carbon/ Also.... marineland carbon is actually pretty good when stacked up against some of the very expensive brand names. I use the lignite carbon from bulk reef supply myself. Here's another interesting article that shows more brand comparison's. http://www.pets-warehouse.com/carbon.htm What is interesting is that a lot of the carbon on the market comes from the same supplier with maybe a step or two reordered or taken out of the process, then it's just rebranded. dribble.gif

    Cheers,

  3. Sounds more like the gfo being moved to a more appropriate reactor was the catalyst. Switching to a fair amount of gfo can cause an abrupt alk (and corresponding ph change) and really pee off sps. It's always a good idea to calculate how much gfo is needed and then start off with half of that. You can check your effluent over a week to see if the phsphates are dropping, if not then add more gfo and repeat process.

    Cheers,

  4. They didn't come from Ecoxotic's, the first post lists all of the information.

    Ahh, misread the name... neither the original post nor post #13 provided much in regards to the specs, and i didn't have much luck finding any on the web either... gonna pass then

    No problem, I will say that I used just these two bulb's on the 150G cube for a few months while I built my led fixture. They were 4ft from the sandbed and kept all of my coral's colored up(except the micromussa's and acan's). That's pretty effective. It doesn't matter what is printed out as spec's for led's, unless you know the actual bin number of the led's in the product you have, you are just getting a ballpark number anyway.

  5. You had some nice livestock in your build thread pics. What's your plan for it?

    Thank's for the nice word's. I hired a pet sitting company to take care of my tank in November while away on business. Pre-paid them to stop by every 4 day's to make sure nothing happened and they nuked my tank within a month. I've got a few pieces I've picked up since then that I'll post soon.

    Cheers,

    Wow that sucks man, you had an awesome tank.

    Thanks....I'm still working on making it really suck for them.

    Cheers,

    • Like 1
  6. You had some nice livestock in your build thread pics. What's your plan for it?

    Thank's for the nice word's. I hired a pet sitting company to take care of my tank in November while away on business. Pre-paid them to stop by every 4 day's to make sure nothing happened and they nuked my tank within a month. I've got a few pieces I've picked up since then that I'll post soon.

    Cheers,

  7. I'm movin to Europe with my job so selling my tank setup.

    1.Marineland Deep Dimensions 150G cube(36"x36"x27")

    2.Steel stand that seperates in order to get thru any width door. Dim's are 36"x36"x 38"
    _DSC4360.jpgCopyof_DSC4356.jpgCopy3of_DSC4352.jpg_DSC4758.jpg
    ** Tank and Stand together alond with stain grade cut plywood pieces for skinning the stand. - $600

    3. (2) Vortech MP40w ES - $500 for both

    4. (1) Dual battery backup unit for 2 vortech's - $75

    5. (2) Vortech MP10w ES - $300 for both

    6. (1) 39G sump - $40

    7. (1) Vertex / Royal Exclusiv Alpha Cone 200 Protein Skimmer - $500

    8. (2) Coralife turbo sea 580P return pump - $50 each

    9. (1) Sequence Dart Pump with AO Smith motor - $120

    10.(1) UPS for Apex backup power - $35


    11.(1) Apex (full) controller - $300

    12.(2) EB8's - $200 for both

    13.(1) VDM modules - $75

    14.(1) Profilux 3 channel Doser - $350 includes solution reservoir's and alk/ca/mg from BRS(minimum of 2 lbs each) http://www.vividaquariums.com/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=09-0074-10

    15. I-Tech 100 cone skimmer with Tunze pump - $250

    16. Level-Loc top-off unit - $40 - keeping

    17. (2) 50G poly water containers and stand - $100 for both with stand. Stand dim's 44"lx20"wx16"h

    mixingstation.jpghttp://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n186/PostaL254/4 sale/mixingstation.jpg]

    18. (1) Custom built 100+ 3W LED light system (9 different spectrums) + (9) Meanwell dimmable driver's - $650 including custom stand that fit's above tank.

    **Lowball offers will be ignored. If interested contact me for my paypal information and pickup detail's.

    More pic's can be seen in build thread here: http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/22483-bimmerzs-150g-cube-build/

    Added item's:

    TLF 550 reactor - $45
    TLF 150 reactor - $25
    4lbs of Lignite fine particle carbon from BRS - $55
    4.5lbs of Lignite course particle carbon from BRS - $45
    Refractometer - $25
    Hanna phosphate tester

  8. If you are setting up from scratch I would recommend going LED. A properly setup led system will not display artificial looking coral's, the bigger challenge is realistically photograping tanks that run led's. Here are three tanks using led's, two that show the progression from MH setup's to led's and the last showing a relatively newly setup tank with led's.There is a reason why all major manufactureres are switching their product line to led's...they work. If you cover as many spectrum's as possible in the 400-700nm range, then all coral's will be happy, the source of that light doesn't matter and that is a proven fact. I recommend the reefbreeders controllable fixture, even their 32" controllable fixture is under $500 shipped, it has adequate spectrum and is highly rated if you do research on them.
    http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=25991

    http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=68625
    http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=99413


    Cheers,

  9. The more important issue's with everything being covered is the reduction of oxygen exchange. You will have less oxygen coming in, less C02 escaping which will depress PH/alk.grin.png I vote for larger container and automating your reservoi refill.

    Cheers,

  10. I'm not to sure how much you value your time but by the time you spend a couple of hours rinsing, and more time generally messing around with old sand, it's cheaper and faster to just get new. doh.gif YMMV(your money, my viewpoint)

    Cheers,

    • Like 1
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