bimmerzs

Glad ya'll made it. I would personally find a good sized apartment and have a tank if that is your desire, why should someone else dictate how you choose to spend your off time. YMMV

Cheers,

Cool....congrats on the new addition.

Cheers,

Understood

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Hi,

Do you know the wavelength of the led's you bought. Choosing any "blue" led light to make your coral's "look" good does not necessarily mean they are of benefit to your coral's. You need "blue light" with a predominant peak wavelength of 445nm which not only produces visually stunning colors, but it's the wavelength found in nature which helps to stimulate growth. Choosing a light source that incorporates a broad spectrum is of greater benefit to the coral's than choosing something that just looks appealing to our eye's.

Cheers,

Looking for a frag of the mystic sunset monti.

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Interesting article with new evidence why it may be better to switch to daytime feeding. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/12/corals2

Cheers,

I decided to go with this kit http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/Aquarium-24--LEDs--DIY-Dimmable-Kit.html. This way i can have more options. Plus, I have the same kit on my 40 and can always add extras to my current setup

Have you looked at stevesleds.com?

Cheers,

This is my recommendation. http://reefbreeders.com/led_fixtures.html

Cheers,

I use a GHL doser and BRS alk/ca/mg solution's. I also run biopellet's on my cube.

Cheers,

Looks pretty cool.

Cheers,

There are several different types of coralline algae, some are lower light types and others require medium/moderate light level's. Having elevated phosphate level's can also hinder coralline algae growth. If you seed your tank with a variety of coralline algae species, you will more likely introduce the types that may be better suited for your lighting and water chemistry.

Cheers,

Keep in mind that most experience pretty good growth under led's and that growth, sucks up additional element's. Coralline needs/utilizes a fair amount of magnesium so make sure you are still at NSW levels for mg. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/10/chemistry

Cheers,

how old is it and what kind of condition is it in?

Maybe 3 years old, not sure of the pumps age.

Out of curiosity why are you selling? I just put my BRS dual reactor into service.

Several reason's really. 1. I really prefer running seperate reactors off of a manifold. 2. It's size creates volumn conflict's in my current setup.

BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor – Dual with MJ1200 Pump for $60. Will trade for high end zoas/palys or select sps frags.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-gfo-carbon-reactor-dual.html

(1) Par38 bulb 12 led ALL BLUE LED'S (20k) - $48 firm
(2) 24W T5HO ATI CORAL PLUS bulb's (bnib) - $18 each or $35 for the pair

These are still available.

Cheers,

I meant to say whelk's above, whelk's resemble nassarius s but have a painted snout. Once something is on the way out you will find pretty much everything taking advantage of a free meal so finding something snacking does not mean that particular animal is the culprit. Here's a pic of a whelk snail. http://www.melevsreef.com/id/whelk.html

Cheers,

Whatever route you take make sure to buy quality equipment, I like to say "do it right or don't do it at all. Quality does not mean the latest and greatest or most expensive, that is where research comes in. A tank in the 60G to 90G is a lot more forgiving to a newbie learning about water chemistry and how the elements interact and affect each other. A ph monitor really will show you what a test kit can't on how adding certain thing's influence. A ro/di unit ensures you are putting in good water, an auto top-off helps with the all important stability aspect as does a refractometer. Read, read and read some more before jumping in.

Cheers,

Looks like a goner. Any whelk snail's evident in the area?

Running carbon will remove any smell. Any chance that your new water cycled on you before you got a chance to use it or was it just mixed? Maybe check out those canister filters. I would mix up more fresh saltwater just to have in case it's needed. Have you checked your parameters yet...including ammonia and nitrites?

Cheers,

I use three items for a similar type of situation, a kent style float valve(has positive shutoff), a normally open solenoid valve and a float switch. The float valve works by itself(as long as it can handle the pressure) however, the float switch and solenoid are there in case the float valve somehow fail's. I use this to auto refill my topoff reservoir. Of course this is just to handle the waste water reservoir part but it may be better to split up the two function's.

Cheers,

Looks really nice.

Cheers,

What length at the t5's

Still available. I'm in the Fairways at Star Ranch Apartments where 685 crosses under the tollway.

Cheers,