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bimmerzs

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Posts posted by bimmerzs

  1. I would consider their light's age along with nutrient reduction. I think lanthium lathium for phosphate control is a good choice here, I would also look at the skimmers efficiency, if it is a 10 year old skimmer, it may be time to consider a new more efficient model such as the Reef Octopus super skimmer with the bubble blaster pump. A lot of the turf algae can also be beat down with the addition of mexican turbo snail's along with tuxedo type urchin's. It's hard to chose a fish that will reliably eat a certain type of algae, they all have different personalities and even though they eat one type of algae in one system, that doesn't necessary mean they will eat them in another system. If this system has had a high level of sustained level's of phosphates then the LR most likely has absorbed it and it is leaching back out feeding the algae. If the LR is good quality there doesn't need to be a ton in there, I would even think about bleaching and acid washing small quantities at a time and open up the rockwork to facilitate better flow and lessen areas for detritus/gunk to settle. Turf algae is a tough character and can live with relatively low level's of fuel ime.

    Cheers,

    • Like 1
  2. If you want it get it....I ran 1300Watts of lighting over a 130G, my house at 78* and could keep the tank at 77*-78* with just fan's over the sump. I evaporated about 5G a day buy water costs are cheap with your own ro/di unit. Same with the temp 90G I had with 800Watts of MH over t, my chiller in both cases was strictly for backup and rarely cycled on. Plan ahead and you can have a manageable setup....buying strictly by price ain't alway's cheap in the end, evaluate the equipment etc., and make an educated decision. You have folks that value a rio pump the same as an ehiem pump, be smart and you will be better off in the end.

    Cheers,

  3. SIGN ME UP TOO!! I will get the normal one right now so that it reduces my phos levels slower and then once another group buy comes around ill jump in for the HC.

    Don't be mistaken, the regular GFO can bring the level's down pretty fast also. The best approach is to measure your tank level's before adding, then start out with 1/3 the recommended amount. Check the effluent level daily to see how much it's dropping, if need be you can add a bit more later in order to slowly reach your desired level. As always YMMV.smile.png

    Cheers,

    Ok, cool. I can do that! Thank you! That is good to know. With my 20g display w/ 10g sump, the amount of GFO needed should be very mniscule.

    You may be better using lanthanum chloride initially if you have a large phosphate concentration and less of the gfo later to maintain low level's, super cheap and very powerful, if I didn't travel as much I would be using it on a timed dosing pump periodically along with my gfo but that would be overkill and pretty much pointless. Definately read up before going that route because it can reduce pretty high level's in a matter of hours, leslies pool supply has it. I wouldn't use it for lower level maintanence. The important thing is to see where you are at first then formulate a plan of attack.

    Cheers,

  4. SIGN ME UP TOO!! I will get the normal one right now so that it reduces my phos levels slower and then once another group buy comes around ill jump in for the HC.

    Don't be mistaken, the regular GFO can bring the level's down pretty fast also. The best approach is to measure your tank level's before adding, then start out with 1/3 the recommended amount. Check the effluent level daily to see how much it's dropping, if need be you can add a bit more later in order to slowly reach your desired level. As always YMMV.smile.png

    Cheers,

  5. I have run both and on my tanks and my changout schedule is right at the 2 month mark and even then my level's are below 0.05ppm. The HC gfo will bring your level's down faster using less but do be carefull bringing down really high level's too fast, sps really do not like that.smile.png

    Cheers,

  6. Hopefully you find what your after! I just helped mitch with this same type of thing.

    Whats a major cross street near you? I dont have tons of spare time but I can always swing by after my classes if its near.

    Just trying to toss ya a bone and help since you seem to need it right now... completely fine to turn me down it wont hurt my feelings.

    Also lets get your APEX up and reporting before you leave. I was not home one time when i lost apex control and my GF called freaking out and I couldnt do anything except walk her through the network and try and fix the problem.

    Thanks for the offer, finally got in contact with north austin pet sitting and they were out here about 1.5 hrs ago so I have finally stop running around like a madman. I really killed off some brain cell's at MACNA this weekend so I really was losing it.smile.png

    Cheers,

  7. Still haven't found anyone....no call back from the professinal member I emailed last week. Full panic mode engaged since I leave out tomorrow morning. I just need someone to stop by every 4 or 5 day's to make sure it's ok and do supplemental feeding, no water changes or anything else needed. Reefer in need here, I can pay if necessary or give you some frag's. Rat's

  8. Running parallel reduces the number of drivers you need but is also really not the best choice for those new to led's unless you fully understand all key point's surronding this method. If you do have wiring issues then you could wind up with a very expensive flash bulb if the current distribution becomes unbalanced between the string's. Adding resistors and fuses provides protection but is not necessary but would be a good idea to protect your led's against damage. As mentioned, it may be a good idea to go back with the 9V and check a few led's per string to make sure they are ok, then use your multimeter to check the integrity of each string.grin.png You can use this as a guide to help troubleshoot common issues also. http://reefledlights.com/trouble-shooting/

    Cheers,

  9. I've seen many smaller reef tanks as well as reef tanks up to 75G tanks use HOB filter's sucessfully. There are ways to mod them into fuges etc., one drawback is the smaller volume of water that they can hold/process however you can impliment purigen or similar types of filter media to make it very functional and effective. You do want to have adequate LR in the tank, maintain a reasonable bioload and make sure to have a good waterchange schedule.smile.png

    Cheers,

  10. Hi,

    Led's are misleading....it is difficult to visually determine how much light a led is putting out. While some led setup's may seem dim to our eyes, your coral's could be receiving almost double the amount of light, as compared to another lighting system. PAR comparison's also mislead, led's are tight with spectrum and the bluer end is hard to measure with a PAR meter. A lux meter will give a better picture where as full spectrum lights have those "extra" spectrum's that also add to the PAR total. Do your due diligence and research fully, also go check out a few different setup's that have led's lighting their tank. If you get quality led's such as the rebel es, cree's , etc., you are working with known performance values so as long as your system is planned out well, you can certainly have not only enough but possibly too much intensity. The bigger concern is making sure that you have the necessary spectrum's available for your coral' need's.

    Cheers,

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