offroadodge

XM20Ks, I have used reeflux and coralvue also. I like the color and longevity of these.

Binswanger Glass can cut you a new piece, IMO it would be easy to fix and agree with Capt Obv that empty would be better. I have plenty of silicone from my tank build.

I have had an Aqua Medic 18W for almost 2 years with no issues. I will never run another tank w/o one.

did u sell it?

depending on the size of the piece, I used solar tube from homedepot. If you just want aluminum, I agree Westbrook or Metal R U.

I don't know why I just found your thread Chris, I have been waiting to see what the stand looked like painted and tanks installed...Im realy happy that all the measurements worked out. Really glad the skimmer cup clears the stand, I didn't think to ask about that dimension. It is gonna be one nice set-up.

well how is the Direct TV?

Andrew, life throws curve balls when we expect the same old fast ball. I to was scared about my 1st kid and everyone in my family told me "put it in the Lords hands and he will always provide and prevail". When I stress about money, paying bills, etc at the end of it all everything gets paid or taken care of. Trust in yourself and great thing WILL happen. Congrats on the newbie!!!

I agree Direct TV, they have there new 5 LMB dish that doesn't hardly ever go out. Im thinking of switching from UVERSE to them, but like my internet have now.

looks good

i took an air file and 40grit paper to my stand to level it. it doesnt look good. u could take bondo and wipe it on the top then sand it flat and repaint it. would be easier to sand than the wood,

i have a waterfall type overflow and it took a few different fitting to figure out a way to make it silent and provide flow. Those HD check valves are junk, Aquacave sells a nice check valve. i have 1 on each return line and they have saved me numerous times. Dont go cheap.

the top pic is so blue i was gonna say Baby Blue Teraki, but the pic when u 1st got it looks like Chips Acro needing to be colored up. The pic dshel1217 posted looks like pearlberry. The are just my suggestions

ya i dont use taptalk but this morning i can see ARC on phone but cant sign in on phone

i use API for a quick check and if something looks crazy then i grab the NEW Red Sea test kits to check KH,PH,CAL, and MG. Im like Tim all i ever check is KH CAL .

DSA or build a tank on your own, thats what i did. DSA is a nice tank and local to Texas.

Inks Lake, constant level and always nice.

i would just EURO brace it, hell with that nasty brace running across the middle. I built the current tank i have and it 1/2" glass euro braced 200G, it has between a 1/8" and 1/4" bow in the front glass from about half way up to the top. I know of a tank that is bigger than mine rimmless 3/4" glass with 1/4"-1/2" bow. I would defntly eurobrace it.

ok to many people to quote here...So i started my 1st SPS dominante tank in 2005 and have NEVER had an issue with my CA reactor. Since 2005 i have had to replace the impeller in the pump on the reactor ONE time cause i wore out the shaft in the tunze pump ($15) other than that i buy a bucket of ARM coarse Media once a year and buy NEO MAG for the reactor. This is ONLY my opinion cause this is the only thing i have used but to me its a NO brainer. I havent even recalibrated my PH probe in 2 years and havent purchased a new one since i bought the 1st one in 2005. Remember the theory of buy the CORRECT/BEST item the 1st time. When i started my 1st CA reactor YES i spent alot of money up front (but a SPS dominant tank REQUIRES it) if cost is and issue dose manually for a few months till you get the $ saved up and buy ONCE. As far as "How CA,ALK, & MG work in correlation"? Here is the simple and easy thing to understand it. CA and ALK are a direct correlation of each other but without MG neither one will work. MG is the binding agent for the 2, no matter how much CA you add to raise the CA level it wont do a thing unless you add MG. I have(a very long time ago put 4oz of CA in the tank at one time and all it did was settle). That being said, thats why i put NEOMAG in my CA reactor. I now dont have to dose anything. My CA stays at 460 My ALK stays at 11 and My MG stays around 1400. 24/7 365 days a year. I NEVER EVER even check the levels anymore. All i look at is the PH of the tank on the controller and i can tell you what all 3 of those levels are. Also there are MANY things a dosing pump cant dose that is naturally dosed with a CA reactor normally. If you melting coral skeleton, and media you are putting back what the corals and all needs. REMEMBER i and no professional. These are JMOs over the last years. But i did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, JK. If you would like help feel free to PM me. Sorry to ramble

check with your car insurance, if the deductable is cheaper than the objects then it may help you in getting new ones.

+1 for Grim, its because you arent putting enough water back into the tank to keep both overflows full. either throttle the returns outta the tank down or get a bigger return pump

agreed, if there is no air bubbles between the glass then cut all the radius silicone out of the inside and redo. use tape and when you finish ajoining seams pull the tape on them, dont wait cause it will pull the silicone once it starts to set and you will have the same look as you do now.

glad to she she still doing an awesome job. It has to make you feel on top of the world when the child you have raised is doing so well in life. Good job. we all hope for the best in her future!

sweet looking good