offroadodge

i like the new oldies station 98.9. reminds me of when i was working as a kid in garage with dad who was listening to it. other than that radio isnt radio anymore. Agreed PANDORA or I heart radio.

i taped a circle off and used my dremel to do my sump when i installed my 1.5" bulkhead. Doesnt have to be perfectly round.

Ya im sure Parker will get one in a few years, im thinking about building him an HO scale train table in garage. I had one when i was a kid, was (2) 4x8 sheets of plywood with mountains, train tunnels, running water everything, it was awesome but EXPENSIVE...

thats what i did when i built my stand, knowing the the door opening was 31" (for the door from garage to kitchen) i starded by building the stand 30" all was good BUT i forgot the trim...1/2" on each side and a toptrim of 3/4" so the stand finished was 31.5" OOOPPPPSSS, built a dolly and wheeled it around the house threw the street to the front door which had an opening of 36". If i knew about this sooner i i could have cut your metal stand and made it bolt together.

sweet

sure do, i have mine vacuum sealed in 1lb packages. LMK

good building...

mmm...theres a reason why the instore stands are cheap...IMO either use 2x4s with plywood or if you have the patience to glue 1/2" plywood together and cut the frame out then you would be ok also. Have you ever seen how a houses corners are built? as long as you build it that away you will be fine. My 200G is built this away with 2x4s and 1/2" plywood and is a tank. I bet the stand alone weighed 60lbs. This is JMO, there are many ways to achieve the end result.

From what I understand it shouldn't as long as its cured properly. I looked around and found this info on 2 different websites one of which was written by a veterinarian, I won't take any chance and I'll do as it says. Another website recommended to do this same routine with 100 degree water. Fiberglass polyethylene, and polypropylene liners are all relatively inert materials. They do need to be carefully leached to remove toxic metals and plasticizers used during the manufacturing process. One leaching procedure is to soak the material in HCL (pH 3.0) for 24 hours, then at pH 11.0 with sodium hydroxide for 24 hours, repeat the pH 3.0 for 24 hours, and finally rinse with salt water. That article is talking about the mat itself. I believe the resin leaches out the chemical during the drying process, thats what causes it to get HOT as the chemical react. I have seen tank builds with 1/2" glass for the front and plywood sides lined with fiberglass mat. I dont thn k it will be an issue. LOOKS GREAT!!!

lookn good

I just purchased an AquaMedic 18W, loooks to be nicely built. I will share the outcome in weeks to come.

have the bars powdercoated for rust prevention or when it is at the bare metal stage use and EPOXY base primer then topcoat with a good enamel base spray paint. Looking good. 12" of lift is fine since you can open the front. i only have 6" and a hinge and its plenty of room to do anything. Keep up the good work.

looking good...bring on the water

Looking SWEET!!! I realy hope that if your gonna use actuators they are heavy ones. If its gonna be a pulley system it will be no biggie. Let me know when your gonna work on the lift and if its on the weekend i'd love to help you if i can. I guess that your gonna have the 6" exhaust out each end (left/right). It WILL be very hot air coming out, water over air for the inlet might be something you should look into. (get ahold of HYDRO) Venting it into the house might be ok in the winter but remember theres no way to turn down the heat once the lights are on. If you vent it to the garage i would run it all the way outside unless your gonna do some kinda water over air to inlet air. JMO i am not an expert (HYDRO is). As far as your return flow my tank is the same way, it doesnt seem like alot of flow but it is. Just match how fast it drains to the return flow, if you have to slow down one no biggie. Thats what i have to do, my 2-1" drains are to fast for a mag 24 and mag 18 together...this is just alot of the stuff i have gone thru, dont let me make your decisions. Give me a call.

there is also the Copperband Butterfly fish, hard to keep but will eat them also. Peppermints are a good way also. I have done both and they both worked.

ya...is that to cheap?

i'd say anywhere from 4" to 12" from top in high flow, i had the same coral and it like ALOT of light to keep it a pretty purple.

For Sale: 1-Mag 24 $100 1-Mag 18 $80 used for 6 mnths in new set-up, removed this past weekend. Need a little cleaning other than that they work fine. PM if interested

Salinity 1.026 KH 11 CA 440 MG1400 PH 8.22-8.30 TEMP 79.4-79-7 FLOW (currently) return= MAG 24 & 18, and intank (2) Tunze 6105s and (1) Tunze Big Wave Box Fixing to change return flow to a Reeflo Hammerhead Nitrates O PO4 .02-.04 LIGHTING 2x400wMH, 8x54wT5HO, 2x48"VHOs SA and 3 LED pods for moon light. So IMO the only key to keeping SPS = STABILITY, and KEEPING your levels as close to natural saltwater as possible. I to was scared at 1st of SPS but once you have had them its realy not that hard.

theres a thread on Reef Central from Japan (i think) his tank is exactly as you want Stephen just a little smaller.

AQUACAVE ?

we defntly have the dwarf version, waiting on mine to eat as well.

Gonna be cool, can't wait to see the new tank

sump