offroadodge

sweet looking good

anything new Chris? hows it going?

man that looks awesome, coming along good now. I may have to come by and look at it this weekend. Pillars turned out great. When you get ready to switch thing over LMK im just right down the road.

Chad, i have found that if i mix my water to long it clouds up BAD. Now when i mix my water change water i watch it and when its clear i do my water change.

i have been throwing this idea around also, but i just like the natural look of the light of a MH.

@LUDAKRIS Well Steven summed it up pretty much. I graduated TSTC '96-'97, i can still rememeber the instructors Mr.Lovejoy (retired now) Archie (paint) and I think MrsMills or Miles does all the paperwork. There were other instructors but those were the most influentual. The colliosion repair industry is a dieing trade cause of insurance companies trying to cut corners. At the shop im employed we dont have to worry to much about who is gonna pay for what cause most of the time if the Insurance doesnt pay for it the customer will, being that i work on mostly cars ranging from $65K-$250K + usually the owners dont care what it costs. (Lambogini,Lotus,Aston Martin,Bentley,Ferrari,Mercedes Benz etc) They just want it RIGHT. I have worked in dealership atmospheres and independant shops, the shop im at now will be (baring and unforschene occurance) the place i stay for the rest of my life. We use caroliner and celete equipment and can make a car look like it never been wrecked down to the way the factory seam sealer looked. When you get outta school give me a ring or PM, i can give you a tour of our facilities.

hey i have been following your thread on here and RC. I have used a place on EBAY twice for 200#s of FRESH liverock, and i mean fresh like hand picked the day you order and shipped 24hrs to you. I have seen the LAX airport scan of the LR coming threw customs from FIJI and directly to destination here.(ME) Price was realy fair and the rock was nice in its variety of sizes. Also i havent had and bad hitchhikers. i will search my ebay purchases and get back with you if interested. I just checked and it was aquacon.com For some reason now they arent selling 50# boxes anymore and the price is a little higher. i paid $149.99/50#s and got 2 boxes everytime. was some nice fresh rock.

Looks great, even better in person. There was no water when I saw it but it is huge and viewable from 3 sides, that's really cool. I think that its increasing the flow in to the tank will help. If you are able to cover the bulkhead(s) with water it will stop pulling in air which makes it loud. +1 for what Stephen said, you will either have to put more water in the tank or throttle down the overflow rate. Its easier to get the timing correct with the 1st option but may require a larger return pump. In my build thread you can see i tried 4 different pumps till i found the one that worked W/O a dought. I tried a MAG 12,18, and 24 none worked. So i went overkill and bought a Reeflo Hammerhead, problem solved. Now if its the water entering the sump socks and the sound there, just extend the pipe down into the water in the sump 1/2" and it will be completely quiet. No need to glue the pipe there either, just put a union and small piece of pipe slipped together.

u could have put it on the outside? looks good.

thats what i did when i built my stand, knowing the the door opening was 31" (for the door from garage to kitchen) i starded by building the stand 30" all was good BUT i forgot the trim...1/2" on each side and a toptrim of 3/4" so the stand finished was 31.5" OOOPPPPSSS, built a dolly and wheeled it around the house threw the street to the front door which had an opening of 36". If i knew about this sooner i i could have cut your metal stand and made it bolt together.

good building...

mmm...theres a reason why the instore stands are cheap...IMO either use 2x4s with plywood or if you have the patience to glue 1/2" plywood together and cut the frame out then you would be ok also. Have you ever seen how a houses corners are built? as long as you build it that away you will be fine. My 200G is built this away with 2x4s and 1/2" plywood and is a tank. I bet the stand alone weighed 60lbs. This is JMO, there are many ways to achieve the end result.

From what I understand it shouldn't as long as its cured properly. I looked around and found this info on 2 different websites one of which was written by a veterinarian, I won't take any chance and I'll do as it says. Another website recommended to do this same routine with 100 degree water. Fiberglass polyethylene, and polypropylene liners are all relatively inert materials. They do need to be carefully leached to remove toxic metals and plasticizers used during the manufacturing process. One leaching procedure is to soak the material in HCL (pH 3.0) for 24 hours, then at pH 11.0 with sodium hydroxide for 24 hours, repeat the pH 3.0 for 24 hours, and finally rinse with salt water. That article is talking about the mat itself. I believe the resin leaches out the chemical during the drying process, thats what causes it to get HOT as the chemical react. I have seen tank builds with 1/2" glass for the front and plywood sides lined with fiberglass mat. I dont thn k it will be an issue. LOOKS GREAT!!!

I just purchased an AquaMedic 18W, loooks to be nicely built. I will share the outcome in weeks to come.

have the bars powdercoated for rust prevention or when it is at the bare metal stage use and EPOXY base primer then topcoat with a good enamel base spray paint. Looking good. 12" of lift is fine since you can open the front. i only have 6" and a hinge and its plenty of room to do anything. Keep up the good work.

Looking SWEET!!! I realy hope that if your gonna use actuators they are heavy ones. If its gonna be a pulley system it will be no biggie. Let me know when your gonna work on the lift and if its on the weekend i'd love to help you if i can. I guess that your gonna have the 6" exhaust out each end (left/right). It WILL be very hot air coming out, water over air for the inlet might be something you should look into. (get ahold of HYDRO) Venting it into the house might be ok in the winter but remember theres no way to turn down the heat once the lights are on. If you vent it to the garage i would run it all the way outside unless your gonna do some kinda water over air to inlet air. JMO i am not an expert (HYDRO is). As far as your return flow my tank is the same way, it doesnt seem like alot of flow but it is. Just match how fast it drains to the return flow, if you have to slow down one no biggie. Thats what i have to do, my 2-1" drains are to fast for a mag 24 and mag 18 together...this is just alot of the stuff i have gone thru, dont let me make your decisions. Give me a call.

AQUACAVE ?

i thnk or thought REEEFPUG did. if not i believe SUBSEA hads one.

100% and just gradually ramp up the time over a few weeks. I started my tank with the frags getting blasted with over 1300Ws of light and didnt have any problems. But since ur tank is established i would graduate into longer photo periods.

The bulbs aren't designed to be manipulated. I know of someone who had there 400s turned down to 250s and it ruined the bulbs. IMO the 20Ks will be whiter when they are at 400Ws. I have 20Ks and they look fine.

right at or just below $300 for the whole house a month...OH and i had a mis type in the post above, it only 2x400s.