jolt

Well my wife could care less about SPS. She would be very happy if I did an all LPS tank

Oh that is too bad

Wow, I can't take such nice pix with my iPhone 4. But at least now I know it's possible

It's like when someone says "squirrel" in the presence of my dog

And his friend creeperty

Actually, the only question I had was if 2x Radion Gen2 is enough for some of the more light hungry SPS in that size tank? Maybe with the TIR wide angle lenses?

You've got a nice equipment list. Should be able to take this system pretty far!

Your kids can do laps in it !

Man I can't wait to see what the dimensions of the future DT will be, given how this frag mothership is shaping up

You're gonna have to build a new wing on the house if you keep growing it!

Personally, I really like the mother ship and detachable frag swap scout ship concept.

Very nice

You're gonna make Bigsby sad with that Christmas present ...

I'm thankful for my family and my health. Also, I'm thankful for the continued advice and support of the illuminati here on ARC, I'll be needing more ...

It's quite possible you are bleaching the chalices, depending on your Kessil settings. Reburn and I just spent saturday measuring PAR of our Kessil A360WEs in each of our tanks. We identified a sweet spot in his tank where some acros seemed to be doing well. This spot surprisingly measured at 87 PAR using SAMs meter. It's no wonder I was bleaching things as I was trying to get mine up to a PAR of 300-400. The meters just really don't seem to read the Kessils well at all. I'm currently at 43% intensity and 60% color at the peak of a 10 hour parabolic curve. I'm 7" over the water and it's about 22.5" to the sandbed from there. This gives me about 100 PAR by the meter at about top dead center in the water.

No problem. If you need help measuring the red wires just let me know ...

OK, I watched the video. They are using some loose terminology there. When they say power they mean 120VAC. They don't really mean there is absolutely *no* power on those wires, its just a control signal not supply power for the fan. So the red wires do not carry 120VAC. They must carry a small current at some (probably DC) voltage supplied by the internal components in the fan. The switch makes or breaks the circuit and the fan's internal components see that and deal with setting the fan speed. So, you definitely don't need a relay that's rated for 120VAC. But I still think you need some form of relay to do this job and an SSR will likely be more reliable in a marine environment. This page lists several alternatives. I would think you'd want to put a meter on the two red wires and see exactly what voltage and current it had so you pick the right relay. http://www.jameco.com/1/1/730-kf0604d-dc-dc-solid-state-relay-control-voltage-3-32vdc.html

Do you have a link to the video? Never mind I see it above

Jeeper all wires can have current flowing in that circuit diagram. That's what makes circuits work (electricity) The high/low switch connecting the two red wires will enable the current to flow through the wires when it is closed, or disallow current to flow when it is open. I read that diagram as saying the red wire is tied to your 110AC supply neutral. Closing the switch would allow current to flow from the black wire (110 AC supply hot) to the white wire via the red wire. That indicates 110AC to me Are there other interpretations folks??

I can't really speculate on that unless I know what voltage and current are flowing on the red wires. Do you know the answer to that? I had assumed it was 110AC, but if the red wires themselves go to an internal relay on the fan then a different solution might be available. The 110AC is just the rating of voltage that the relay can handle. Anything less than that is not a problem for that relay. At $35 I wonder if you can really find a more robust solution?

Right, that is what's called a normally-open relay. When you apply greater than 3V DC to the switch side it turns on the 110VAC load switch allowing the 110 to flow. When you drop the DC signal below 3V the 110AC switch opens and no current flows in that circuit. I've not used APEX or SSR, but reading the data sheets makes me think it will work. Perhaps there is a person with more hands-on experience who will comment ...

I would maybe look at something like this: http://www.phidgets.com/docs/Solid_State_Relay_Primer http://www.amazon.com/Opto-22-Control-Optical-Isolation/dp/B0058UX04U I should add you need to pay attention to the kind of device you are hooking up on the load side. The link above is a zero-crossing module. Here is a random-crossing module: http://www.onlinecomponents.com/crydom-cl240d10rc.html?p=45157876 The first link explains when to use each kind of relay ...

Borrowing a page from Victoly's book: