Sascha D.

Prices of remaining items lowered

When the calcium reactor media needs to be refilled then I pull it, the skimmer and the circulation pump; about every six months. Once a year, usually in January, I pull the return pump. I clean the mixing barrels and the ATO reservoir when I notice they're starting to get slick on the inside. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

A penductor and a random flow generator work a little differently. It might be a good idea to try the penductor. I'll research it a little more. Also, I believe random flow generator reduce the amount of flow and can clog easily. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

I don't even remember what it's like to not be in build-mode! Still keeping an eye on Diver's Den though

Has anyone had experience with penductors on the return nozzles? I never considered flow accelerators as viable powerhead substitutes, but two people have recommended them to me in a week.

LiveAquaria is having a 20% off flash sale and, as I was filling my cart with shiny things, it unceremoniously struck me that I don't really need anything. I'm also not willing to take the same risks as I was last year when everything was starting to recover from the flatworm crash. Now every new addition has a small chance to destroy everything that I've worked towards. The whole premise of this hobby is wanting more than you have; to create something special. Is it ever enough? Do we ever have enough corals or fish to just stop and enjoy the harmony for the short time that it lasts? I'm going to empty my cart and really assess what I need moving forward. At some point you have to stop building and just enjoy the results. Fish - I'd like to replace the ones that jumped out over the holiday and finish my stocking list, but I'm really happy with what I have. Still, I wouldn't mind adding some of my favorites. Blonde Naso Tang Melanurus Wrasse Would also consider adding 1-2 Yellow Tangs, Convict Tang, Desjardini Sailfin, Cleaner Wrasse, Dusky Wrasse or an Ornate Wrasse Corals - I have 5-7 spots to fill before letting everything grow out. At least two of them need to be stags to help fill some of the vertical space that I've left for coral growth. Would also like 1-2 tabling acros or plating montis. My current stock has some of every color, but more green and purple than others. Below are some of the species that I'm considering right now. Ultra Gold Torch Branching Acros: Cali Tort, Strawberry Shortcake, Desalwii, Pink Milli (Love this one and wouldn't mind propagating another colony.) Tabling Acros: Ultimate Efflo, PC Superman Stags: Red Robin, Paletta Blue, Paletta Pink Tip, Green Slimer (I already have this coral and I wouldn't mind propagating it to another colony.) Montis: I already have Idaho Grape, Reef Raft Nauti Spiral, Rainbow, Setosa, Jedi Mindtrick, Mystic Sunset, Yellow Lantana and True Undata. Maybe add a Green Apple, Candy Red, Grafted Cap or Chili Pepper?

Fish trap and pumps sold.

I've used the Jebao CP150 pumps and here is my review if you're interested. I'm completely done with Jebao circulation pumps, but the DCT return pump has been working flawlessly for three years. IME you'll need at least two circulation pumps around 2,000 gph to create enough flow in that footprint. I personally use six Hydor Koralia Evolution pumps rated at 1,500 each plus the return. I bought them on sale for $23 each and your best bet for a sale in President's Day.

I agree with everyone above on the Chromis. I started with 15 in a 150g and managed to keep 10 of those after two years. Chromis live in stoney corals for protection. In our tanks they substitute live rock crevices and sleep in them at night. I believe they become too weak from the competition and don't have the strength to come out again. My Azure Damsels both bite and attack anything that gets near their home, including magnet cleaners, tongs, siphon vacuumes, and my fingers. Dan and Meg had a similar problem with Talbot's a few years ago. Sapphire and Pink Smith Damsels have been great additions to my tank. They haven't been aggressive and they're both interesting to watch. I've also had good experiences with Allen's Damsels but they're not really available locally unless you request them. However, I don't know if their good behavior is natural or has to do with the size of aquarium since I've never kept them in a smaller system. Also, it's worth mentioning that they don't act like Chromis/Anthias. They often stay close to the aquascape similar to dwarf angelfish and don't freeswim across the tank. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Direct sunlight promotes GHA growth and moving the aquarium may help with the issue. It probably wouldn't solve the entire issue, but it would help. Moving an existing reef can be very difficult and I would consider it a last resort unless the reef is fairly young or most of the livestock has been lost already. I've battled GHA twice in the last three years using the techniques in the previously linked article. The first time was after a new tank cycle and it took about two months. The second was after a tank crash that took about five months. My tanks don't utilize a CUC of any substance and excluding herbivore invertebrates is a personal preference. What worked for me was manual removal, herbivore fish and time.

I'm selling Hamilton Technology Aruba Sun 4' T-5 fixtures with LED strips almost new. PM if interested Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Ich is nearly impossible to eradicate long-term. It's not only quarantining every fish like Dogfish stated above. You also have to guard against every drop of water entering the tank. This means a separate qt for corals and inverts that doesn't include any fish. Everytime a new coral or invert goes into the qt the fish fallow period starts over. You also need separate equipment and utensils for every tank to prevent transfer of disease. I've heard that there are many strains of Ich and fish eventually become resistant to the strain in your aquarium. It makes sense, but maintaining a minimum of 3 tanks for 5-7 years without slipping up seems pretty hard. There's also speculation that Ich can travel through evaporation water by people attempting to run Ich-free. If true, then quarantine has to be completed in an entirely separate room than the display. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Post updated.

The link doesn't open in Tapatalk, but works on the computer. Fu Manchu Lions primarily feed on inverts. They're also ambush predators and don't covert well to dead silversides. I believe your best bet is to stock the tank with saltwater feeder shrimp until the lion is established. I had one in a 55g FOWLR up until I joined the military in 2007 and I was never able to covert it to silvers. They're surprisingly shy and mostly hung out in the backside or underside of caves and ledges of the aquascape. Both of my fish books list this species as the most difficult lion to maintain. Michael W. Scott further writes that most specimens ignore healthy fish and often refuse to eat in captivity. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Oh my goodness! That seems like a lifetime ago. Brackish fish are unpredictable in a full salt environment. They don't swim around or through the rocks like reef fish and instead swim in the top 10% of the tank. Scats and puffers will eat almost every type of coral. Mollies don't understand the reef environment and swim right into anemones or pick at random things. They often look at other fish and invertebrates like they have no idea what they are. Their behavior looks very unnatural against the backdrop, like a supermodel at a barbeque buffet. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Updated as of this morning. Still a few frags left.

List updated.

There's a lot going on in your system! Avelopora and sea whips are much more sensitive than digitata. Generally the filter feeders would be the first to show signs of nutrient deficiency. The pavona and cyphestrea don't look healthy, but I would have expected them to fade or wash out. It could be that you have enough particles in the water column, but not enough DOC's. Have you tested PAR? I would start with the lights because it's the easiest to correct or rule out as a suspect. If PAR is okay, then pull the media and feed normally. I had a nutrient issue in my tank two years ago and it took about two weeks to show signs of improvement.

Sorry, both sold yesterday.

Pickup in pflugerville. Will consider trade for Euphyllias colors that I don't have, Desalwii, Ultimate Efflo, Cali Tort, pink staghorn, Strawberry Shortcake, or a sea fan. Also looking for a Blonde Naso Tang and Convict Tang. 1) GSP $10 SOLD 2) GSP $10 SOLD 3) Purple Stylophora $10 4) Rainbow Montipora $10 SOLD 5) Tyree Pastel Favia $20 SOLD 6) ORA Tricolor Valida $10 SOLD 7) ORA Tricolor Valida $10 SOLD 8 ) ORA Tricolor Valida $10 9) ORA Tricolor Valida $10 SOLD 10) ORA Tricolor Valida $10 SOLD 11) Watermelon Mushrooms $10 (see close up) SOLD 12) Tyree Pastel Favia $20 (see close up) SOLD 13) Purple Stylophora $10 SOLD 14) WWC Bizarro $50 15) Atlantis Meteor Shower $20 SOLD 16) True Undata $10 SOLD 17) True Undata $10 SOLD 18) ORA Green Elkhorn $10 SOLD 19) ORA Green Pocillopora $10 SOLD 20) ORA Green Pocillopora $10 SOLD 21) ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $10 (picture to come) SOLD 22) ORA Green Elkhorn $10 (picture to come) SOLD 23) ORA Green Pocillopora $10 (picture to come) SOLD

12-16-18

We've all been there. It can take awhile, but stick with it and you'll win! How long is your total photoperiod? It looks like you're only running the lights from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. How much are you feeding those two clownfish? How long has this tank been set up and what kind of rock/sand did you start with? Every tank needs a different approach depending on what's caused your algae problem. It's generally a nutrient or lighting issue. IME blackout only works on cyanobacteria. How to Remove Algae From a Reef Tank also has some good tips to help you as well.

In a normal cycle the GHA would consume the PO4 and then start to turn white when it reaches the point of starvation. Since you've added fish, you've also added a source of food for the algae and it will be harder to remove. At some point the macroalgae and film algae will outpace the GHA and manual removal will be the best solution. You could also add a couple of CUC members to keep the algae in the display trimmed while the other parts of the system mature. I would be against stripping the water with carbon or GFO because you'll affect the refugium in a negative way and prolong the cycle. I would say around the four month mark you should see significant improvements. Unfortunately, the diatoms will grow until the silicate has been consumed and there's nothing useful that you can do about that one.

Mystery Acro - I don't remember what it's call or where I got it from, but I save the tiniest nub from a dying colony after my last crash. I never expected it to live and now it's doing awesome! 3-11-18 6-28-18 12-8-18