victoly

you can really go wild with them ( i have) but at a basic level, what you need is a 5 stage (mechanical, universal carbon block, RO membrane and DI canister) for a high quality DI water. BRS is pretty popular and they have some great videos on the subject. I'm assuming youre in Austin and have chloramines, which is what most water utilities use to sanitize their drinking water. Chlorine is a bit easier to deal with, but the setup will be the same either way.

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bump

Honestly that doesnt look too bad. Scrape the glass. Top off your sediment with new sand, and add in more cleanup crew like snails and urchins and rabbitfish. Maybe try to waterchange your way out of 50 ppm nitrates also. It's not hugely problematic, but its probably contributing. Adding more coral will also take your attention off the algae. Another thing that helps is to run bluer lights, even though the algae is still there its not as visible.

any new frags or inverts? Was there anything different about the way the fish looked?

any new fish added lately?

per forum rules, please post an asking price.

Here's my followup email from Eli: I'm writing to follow up personally on this automated email, and share my perspective on your reports. I'm sorry the delay getting these to you, and hope you had a good Thanksgiving in the meantime! Lets start with Diversity. The community in your tank was more diverse than the majority of tanks I've sampled, at the 85th percentile. You're probably familiar with the debates about the value of microbial diversity in the hobby. I consider high diversity a positive feature because as you are probably aware, diversity is associated with productivity and resilience in a variety of ecosystems including coral reefs. More specifically, healthy coral reefs show higher microbial diversity than degraded coral reefs. So from this perspective, this is a positive finding. Next Balance. Your balance score is even higher than the raw number appears -- this is actually the 99th percentile. In other words, the community in your tank is exceptionally similar to the 'typical' profile (the average levels across all healthy tanks in my database). So both of these primary scores are very high - your tank has a very diverse and normal community. That will make this section of the email much briefer than usual! Most tanks deviate in some way from the typical community. The community barplots (part 2) show more details about this community. Its useful to focus on the most abundant families from the typical community, then locate these in the barplot for your sample. You can see that all five of the most abundant families from the typical community are also readily visible in your sample. Nitrifying microbes - your sample had slightly low levels of ammonia oxidizing microbes (AOM), in the bottom half of the typical range. In your tank, like most, these were entirely composed of Archaea (family Cenarchaeaceae) rather than Bacteria. However, there were no detectable nitrite-oxidizing bacteria (NOB). This is actually not too unusual, notice that the >10% of tanks lack detectable NOB. These populations typically increase or decrease in proportion to the levels of the AOM that feed them, so its not unusual to see undetectable NOB when you have low AOM. Usually when we see this, there are reasonable explanations for competition for Nitrogen, such as a macro algae refugium. But I don't see any such thing in your tank. I wonder whether in your system, the AOM and NOB populations have become very localized on sulfur denitrator. We should sample that directly! I think you're the first client I've had that used this system. Happily, your tank lacked any signal from known bacterial pathogens of fish or corals. I also checked for the bacteria associated with the Caribbean coral disease SCTLD, but found no evidence of these either. So overall some very good evidence of a diverse and normal microbiome in your aquarium. I remain interested in getting a sample of your denitrator if possible so we can explore whats living there directly. I hope this analysis and my explanation have been useful. I'd be happy to discuss further, and would be curious to read your thoughts about this report based on your knowledge of the tanks involved.

@FarmerTy@Gig 'em @ NDstructible

I know a few of us have sent off for microbiome testing by Eli Meyer at aquabiomics. I thought it might be cool to share them all in one place and discuss results. Aquabiomics 20201019.pdf

That's pretty atypical behavior for any genicanthus. That being said, fish can have individual tendencies and behaviours. Is it only one of the pair or both? Is it possible those corals had some algae on their skeletons that they were picking at and the coral just got in the way? They're not typically grazers, but then again they're also not typically coral eaters....

Just out Put in to test. So yes.

updated price

updated prices

right on. updated sold items and prices

i have not

Tapatalk on iOS is still whack too.

Ecotech radion G3 XR15 1 $180.00 175 Ecotech radion RMS tank mount system for XR15 1 $75.00 70 Ecotech radion RMS slides gen 3/4 style 5 $20.00 15 Aquatic life 48" MH/T5 with ballast 1 $50.00 MH ballast 2 $10.00 ATI Blue Plus 24" T5 lamps 6 $50 for all 6 UV Lighting 454 24" T5 lamps - similar to blue plus 6 $40 for all 6 Glass in and out tube set for freshwater 1 $20.00 Reef octopus BR-MF-70 biopellet reactor 1 $115 110 100 Let Lighting 36" 2 bulb T5 retro kit 4 $90 70 each or 250 for all 4 kits Kessil H80 Grow light 1 $85.00 Inovative marine Mini reactor (desktop) 2 $50.00 Custom Zen reef 5 gallon ATO chamber 1 $100.00 80

Tank. overflow, building an obsession sump, stand, polycarbonate net top, sicce 1.5 return pump and 300w finnex heater. $500

i can add two more of the exact same ballasts to the mix if you're interested

https://marsh-reef.org/index.php?threads/lumen-max-elite-fixtures.62695/ Here are some in houston.

This is just anecdotal for me, but as far as dinos go, they seem to correlate with non-detectable phosphates. When i get the phosphates a bit higher, they seem to go away. But its a fine line between keeping the dino at bay and making the GHA take off.

If your corals are happy I would try to add in biological control. Tangs, foxface, urchins and snails.

Honestly youre best off just getting a new or different tank... rotted and cracked plastic is bad news. Most tanks with plastic rims need them to keep the tank together unless they are specially constructed. This top is for a bowfront, which wouldnt fit your tank anyway.

Price Drops Ecotech Vectra L1 - $240Eheim 2213 - $4024" BML 7K LED - $30(2) 36" 18K BML LED (one missing lense, will include dimmer if you buy both) - $5530" 18K BML LED - $40