Mindflux

I got most of it out, just some little bits floated off presumably the hermits and other creepy crawlies will get to them. Though looking at the tank almost all of my yellow eyelash's are closed up. Wonder if that was a hermit crab cruising through or related to the anemone pollutants.

Came home today to a detached anemone. Picked it up and it literally started falling apart in my hand. R.I.P Greenie.

No additional iodine dosing, no. I just did a WC which should have replenished what trace iodine might be needed.

My GBTA has done surprisingly well in my tank despite the newness of my tank. (4 months?).. though the live rock came from a well established system. The last week the poor thing has been completely deflated and just hanging on by it's foot. It's coloration still seems good and it's still hanging on to the rock it's been on for months. I haven't seen it inflate in almost a week now and it's been too deflated to feed it (I usually give it krill or broadcast feed the tank). Lighting on the tank is only a couple months old with new bulbs so lighting should be adequate. Is there anything else I can do to help remedy this poor fellas disposition? I just did a water change today as well, hoping that would perk it up (it usually makes my other corals perk up) but no change.

bump for price drop.

bump for interest?

If I could do it again (which I will with my 90) I'd avoid the dwarf ceriths. They get into your powerheads and make noise when the propeller clips their shells. (or stops the pump). I've had some die off of my Nerite snails for some reason. I can only attribute it to the lack of feeding I give the tank while my fish are in QT. They'll just drop off the glass and by morning my nassarius snails and crabs/shrimp will have hollowed out the shell.

Also while in QT I feed daily to keep them fat and happy. I add Garlic Extreme at random intervals (due to laziness) and Selcon. Best of luck!

Well, lighting wouldn't HURT .. but you don't need anything but your typical tube lights. The things that get expensive in saltwater tanks are the high end fixtures that help corals grow. Fish for the most part require considerably less lighting (think freshwater). In your case, yes you could use some of the tank water to help kickstart your biological load in the QT tank but with that could bring water born ich parasites. If it were me I'd put together a 10g with a powerhead OR small HOB filter for water circulation/aeration. The HOB filter might be ideal here since that will help with detritus. (poop/etc) but will add more expense. IF you wanted to provide any lighting a small wattage clip on reading lamp would be more than enough, but as I said my QT tank is NOT lit (the bulbs are burned out) and the fish are fine (the tank is near a window with the shade mostly closed). As for treatment either Cupramine or Hyposalinity. Hypo would be the way I'd go but with a 10 gallon tank you are going to need to watch evaporation closely, because you need to keep your salinity at 1.009 and small fluctuations can bring it up to 1.010 and above pretty easily. Cupramine doesn't have that drawback but you'll need to be able to test for it to keep it at the recommended dosage for the recommended period of time. If you chose the Cupramine route and you use a HOB filter for filtration and circulation you'll need to be able to remove the carbon from it otherwise it'll take the cupramine right out of the water. These are just my two cents on the issue after facing Brooklynella with my clownfish. I have 3 more weeks to fallow my display tank before I can move them back. Also since the tank is not truly cycled watch closely for ammonia spikes. Water changes will help here. If you can find them (I haven't found them locally) you can get ammonia alert badges. Stick one inside the tank and it'll change color as ammonia rises. They're good for 6 months I believe. Once you've used your QT for the recommended treatment time and fallowed your display tank for ich, giving the empty/fishless QT tank a little bit of fish food regularly will help keep the tank 'cycled' by giving the bacteria stuff to consume.

Of course, the hardest part is having your QT cycled instantly. Best you can do is remove any sort of mechanical filtration from your display tank into the QT and add new filter media to your DT.

Even if the fish seems to get better you are best off adding him (and your other fish) to a QT with nothing in the bottom but some PVC elbows to camp out in. Itch shows up on the body, drops off into the substrate to multiply and then comes back for another round. The second time is usually the fatal one since the fish have a compromised immune system from the first 'infestation'. Pardon my cross linking to another forum but this is the best description of ich I've found: http://reefcentral.c...d.php?t=1992196 PetCo is still running their $1/gallon sale. You could pick up a 10 gallon tank from there, buy some PVC from Home Depot and borrow a small powerhead/airstone to circulate/aerate the water. In the present climate a heater is not needed, and my fish have been in QT 6 weeks without any additional lighting other than ambient in the household.

$180 Used for 3 months. Great little pump with tons of interesting modes. Just isn't gonna cut the mustard for my bigger tank though. Please note this is the MP10 ES, not the MP10w ES. Wireless module can be added later if desired. Glad EchoTech did that in case you want to expand later. Still have the original box, manual, cable holders (unused) etc. Pump never registered with EcoTech either.

Shane at Fishy Business or Prof from Epic Reef.

Great, now open a store north. That'll fix the other problem.

Doh, really? ...

Before you go losing a stack of cash trading them away consider a 6205 shroud. That'll widen the flow, for $30 bucks you may as well try it on at least one pump. You can get them from Roger @ Tunze off Braker.

It was nice to meet you and your wife. Thanks so much for the birdsnest frag too! Olivia was asking about Lily the whole way home... ha ha.

I've seen some pics of some pretty bad Cyano outbreaks, in most cases it seems that folks just let it run it's course. It's kind of one of those things that goes with "new tank syndrome". I'll be interested to hear what other folks think. I know there's a product called "Red Slime" that gets rid of it right away, but I generally like the idea of not adding weird chemicals to a tank if at all possible.

pm on wavebox and tank

I can see them just fine?