etannert

I have two fuzzy green mushrooms for sale. Each is half dollar size or larger when fully expanded; $5 each. I'm in Northwest Austin, Parmer/McNeil area.

Very cool!!

This thread is from 2009.

Patrick, I highly recommend a service called SquareSpace. That is who I use to host my website (www.emilytannert.com). It is very functional, easy to use, and only $8/month. You can easily insert a PayPal cart - I have one. SquareSpace is a great service for people who don't want to spend a lot of time building and maintaining a website so even if you have someone else do it, I would highly recommend their service. I've also never had an outage in the 3 or so years I've used them for hosting.

They look like People Eater Palys to me. Don't know if I've ever seen them in orange, or if there's a name for them, I just know I want some!!

Yep, cleared the cookies and I'm back to mobile on my phone as well. Thanks everyone!

I can't get my phone back to the mobile version. I'm logged in constantly on the "infinite" version on my laptop... my phone won't go back to the mobile version and I can't find a drop-down or other way to toggle it back. Didn't have this issue before. The full site makes my phone run reeeeaally slow.

HAH! No worries, I don't think we've ever met face to face!

Hey Robb, thanks for the info, but my name is Emily.

Timfish, I've always read that distilled water was not an accurate fluid with which to calibrate a refractometer. Can you go into more detail on this?

Oooo, ooo! I want it! Pick me!! Only problem being I'm out of town, and Saturday would be the first time I could get over there. But I can PayPal you the money.

You can even put chaeto in your DT, if you keep it in a net or mesh bag of some sort so that it stays contained and possibly tucked behind a rock. Why all the rubble rock and bio balls? A fuge would be a better use of that space IMHO.

If he's eating and breathing normally don't put him in QT. The stress of catching and moving the fish will only increase its susceptibility to the infection. Plus the only way to rid your system of ich is to let the system sit fallow with no potential hosts in the system for a minimum of 6 weeks. Your tang is NOT going to be happy in a bare bottom 10 gallon tank for 6 weeks, and if you don't let the system sit fallow, you're just putting the fish back in with the parasite anyway. Let the infection run its course, as long as the fish is healthy and eating well it will fight it off on its own. As all the LFS guys say, if you sneeze in the same room, a tang will get ich, the key is not to freak out about it. Keep soaking food in garlic, keep him well fed, and keep the parameters consistent - a raise in salinity or major change in temp or pH can worsen the infection. If you do decide to put him in QT - do a 10g water change on your display tank and used the removed ("dirty") water to fill the new tank - do not put the fish in a new, un-aged batch of saltwater. The parameters are not likely to match and you'll stress the fish out even more and worsen the infection. Put some PVC pipes in there so the fish has some place to hide and watch your nitrate levels since you won't have live rock in there to provide filtration - you'll probably have to do frequent water changes. But I wouldn't put him in QT. Just my 2c.

Looks like red turf algae. I have had good luck with turbos controlling it, though you have to put a number of them in since they won't really go for it till everything else more tasty is gone. The roots go deep into the rock, so it's hard to kill even if you pull it out by hand, and I have read threads on Nano-Reef of people using very thickly spread Kalk paste and even flame to try to kill it. My turbos keep it trimmed short and it doesn't spread, so that's good enough for me.

+1 what jestep said. Keep it in a bucket of clean saltwater with a pump for circulation until you get a chance to clean it off a little. If you already have live rock in the tank, it already contains the needed bacteria and will seed any new dry or dead rock you may add. But whether what you got is live or not, you should clean it off pretty thoroughly before putting it in your tank. Use a soft toothbrush to scrub any algae and rinse very thoroughly in clean saltwater; detritus can really hide on cracks and crevices and dirty rock can kick off a cycle in your tank. A really good idea is to do a water change on your tank and then use the removed water to do your rock cleaning. Kind of kills two birds with one batch of saltwater.

Floating the baggie alone won't do anything but temperature-acclimate them. You need to add water from your tank to the baggie, a little at a time every 5 mins, until you have at least half and half old water and new water, to acclimate them to the water in your tank. As 10g says do not allow the water from the pail to get in your tank, or at least, as little as possible. If you're not able to get the shells off then don't sweat it, just put the rock in your tank. Look up "drip acclimation." This is the procedure you'll want to use for future additions.

Okay,I'll take a couple more swings. #3 looks like a green montipora me. #6 looks like a strawberry prostrada #7 looks like a green millepora +1 on the candy canes. Most mushrooms don't have proper names so I wouldn't worry about that one, ditto on the hammer. The RCA one might also be a colt coral, looks very similar to Kenya tree, hard to tell from the pic.

The first one is a ricordia yuma, the second is Texas Trash palys. I'll let the SPS experts weigh in on the rest!

Just my 2c... Does the system come with livestock? (Fish and corals.) If so you should pass. As a beginner you will probably make a lot of mistakes early on (we all did) and it should not at the expense of the lives of your critters. Besides, stocking the tank is half the fun. :-) If the system does not have livestock - then go for it - bigger is not really any harder. For tank moving services, you should call the LFS and ask who they would recommend. Probably will get more info/response than this post.

C Lo, I know how you feel. I was mystified by the whole siphon thing too until my boyfriend showed me. All you have to do is stick some plastic tubing in the tank and suck slightly on the other end to create the vacuum. As long as the end destination for the water is lower than where the water is, it'll work, no pumping action or bulb squeezing required. For refilling, we use a Maxijet with some plastic tubing. Working together we can do water changes on all 4 tanks is under 30 mins. By myself I can do water changes on my 2 tanks in that amount of time. You're welcome to come over and check it out sometime.

Most of mine died with high mag. My problem is that I have some zoa frags with a few hairs here and there embedded in the frags/plugs. I keep my mag high and I've tried long (~5 mins) dips in half tank water, half hydrogen peroxide. I initially thought the H202 worked but by the time my zoas had opened back up the bryopsis had grown back too. I've gone so far as to try to remove individual strands with tweezers. At least none of it is on my live rock but I'd rather not risk it moving around the tank, and I don't want to lose my zoas.

If you find one let me know... high Mag has helped some but not totally eliminated the problem for me too.

Got it. Well, that makes lots of sense, and you should listen to the very sensible advice given above. :-)

Daisy, I'm confused. Is your fixture getting ready to blow (if so how do you know) or do you just need new bulbs? Or is this a (happy) excuse to upgrade? 4 bulbs seems a little light (no pun intended) for a 70, but I'm no expert.