nemirn Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 (edited) Does anyone know what kind of algae this is, what makes it grow, and how to get rid of it? In the pics, it is the maroon colored carpety stuff. Edited March 5, 2009 by nemirn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Looks to be cyano, a bacteria. Flow, nutrient reduction, photoperiod reduction. It can be vacuumed off too, but you need to find the source and get rid of that. Excess nitrate and phosphate arebeing the main sources I believe. Before someone asks; what are your parameters like? Water change schedule? Water source? Feeding schedule and what foods do you feed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 That's cyano bacteria. Not really an algae but just as much a distraction. It's considered to be a sign of overfeeding, over crowding and/ or still water. What type of flow do you have in the tank? What size tank? Inhabitants? Feeding schedule? Do you do frequent water changes? How long has the tank been set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Haha that's hilarious. Looks like Robb and are were thinking the exact same thing at the exact same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Great minds and all... I saw you "looking" when I hit the send button. I was also thinking, "Cafe mike will want to know all this stuff, so let me ask for him."!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbnj Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Are you by any chance feeding your tank flake food? That stuff raises your phosphate levels, which in turn leads to a cyano outbreak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemcd Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Are you by any chance feeding your tank flake food? That stuff raises your phosphate levels, which in turn leads to a cyano outbreak. Are you saying you should never feed flake food? MJM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjohn Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I feed flake daily and I have never had a cyano outbreak. 3 years and counting, with fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbnj Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Are you saying you should never feed flake food?MJM Not unless you can keep your phosphate levels under control. You should test your water for phosphates. I never use flakes, so many other better options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemirn Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 That's cyano bacteria. Not really an algae but just as much a distraction. It's considered to be a sign of overfeeding, over crowding and/ or still water. What type of flow do you have in the tank? What size tank? Inhabitants? Feeding schedule? Do you do frequent water changes? How long has the tank been set up? Yeah, you're right. it's cyanobacteria. This is in my 10gal nano. Inhabitants: 1 falco hawkfish, 1 pistol shrimp, 1 serpent star, 4 snails, 1 hermit crab, 1 clam, plus various soft corals. Feeding: 1/3 cube frozen mysis daily. Some cyclopeeze every other day for the clam and little chili coral. (The hawkfish, shrimp, and starfish end up catching most of what doesn't reach my clam and chili coral) Flow: HOB filter and oscillating powerhead/wavemaker. (I'm thinking I should put the powerhead lower in the tank just high enough that it doesn't stir up the sand) Water changes: Water top-off every other day. 40% change every 6 weeks. (The fellow at aqua dome recommended this, but maybe I should be changing less & more frequently) Tank age: I set the tank up about 10 months ago. I think I know what might be contributing: One of the bulbs in my dual actinic (which I bought used) has gone out, so I'm sure the remaning bulb has been putting out the wrong wavelengths.... I think above 460nm would contribute to red cyano. Is there a way to measure phosphates? How about nitrates? I've always just used ammonia & nitrite tests to infer nitrates. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbnj Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 API makes a phosphate test kit. All the LFS carry it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 If the tank is 10months old, you can safely stop testing for ammonia and nitrites. You need a nitrate, phosphate, pH test kits. I'd also add Ca, Mag, Alk to the mix just to be complete. The downside to phosphate testing is most of the hobby grade kits don't go low enough. Spend a few extra $ and get an Elos or Salifert kit. Those two seem to get the most love as far as test PO4 kits go. (I think the API nitrate, alk, and Ca kits are fine.) I'd also increase the frequency of the water changes. 10g is not a lot of volume and things can go south in a hurry. I'd do them weekly in that small a tank, and less volume too. Heck, do 1g a day. That would even be better. I'd stop feeding cyclopeeze too. Maybe target feed the chili if it needs it. (Shut off flow, maybe put a 2L bottle over it and squirt some over it.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medi Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 definitely more frequent water changes. I would recommend 20% every week, but if you want to mess with it then go for the gallon a day. I just know I wouldn't be able to keep up. Also, I could be lying, but I don't think your lighting would contribute that much to the problem unless you are keeping it on for too many hours a day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medi Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 one more thing. I would stay away from the API test kits. I know they are cheap, but in my experiences they are not accurate at all. I would recommend spending the money, and picking yourself up a few Elos test kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GKarshens Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 The advice above is all good. I would go ahead and get the new bulb though. I have heard of people having Cyano problems and then it getting better once they get a new bulb. Something to do with the spectrum being better or worse for the cyano's photosynthesis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 (edited) *edit - foot removed from mouth Edited March 6, 2009 by Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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