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Upgrade to 90


Bburrage04
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Hello reef family. I am currently running a 55 gal and I was recently handed and blessed with a 90 gallon tank. Im still new so would like some input as well as feedback and opinions. I’m currently running a hang off the back overflow to my sump with 1”pvc

1 will that work with the 90 gallon?

im going to be building a “shaker style”  stand with built in led lights and on/off switch when doors open and close for it in the next 2 weeks out of walnut.

The sump is a 40 gal tank that I will diy into a sump( I have a picture posted of what I want to do with the sump 

I’ve attached pictures of running tank and plumbing along with new tank, 40 gal sump and stand drawings, the stand will hide all plumbing as well. 

I see a lot of set up where there are 3 inlets into the sump. Will I need that or will I be ok with one as I have it now 

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I've never used a hang on back setup like that so I can't say too much about that.    I know other have so hopefully someone will comment.  The people who run three drains are usually running an extra line for an emergency drain in case the main drain clogs up

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15 hours ago, Bburrage04 said:

Hello reef family. I am currently running a 55 gal and I was recently handed and blessed with a 90 gallon tank. Im still new so would like some input as well as feedback and opinions. I’m currently running a hang off the back overflow to my sump with 1”pvc

1 will that work with the 90 gallon?

If it works for you in a 55 it will work in a 90. As long as you dont try to change the amount of flow. LIke if you were to get a larger return pump your overflow system might not handle it.

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I have used a similar type set up on my very first tank, it was a 55g strech hex. I was great when I didn't know any better. I was just excited to have my first saltwater tank. My advice if you are set and love the hobby, get what you want now. A hob overflow system is not very sustainable for long term use. If it we're me and you want to use the 90 see if it's glass and drill it. Or best 90gal I ever had was the dsa neo 90 I wish I would have never upgraded from that tank way back when, but the emergence on starphire glass was the next best thing so I bit in. But tanks are a ton cheaper from 10 yrs ago and there are so many veriations to choose from. Just make sure you get what you really want and are going to be happy with 6 months from now. Don't put all that work into a nice stand and then want a better system down the road. 

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A few thoughts on filtration for you to consider. I've been setting up and maintaining systems for 30 years and the most important thing I've learned is "Keep It Simple", with systems as old as 26 years old the life expectancy of equipment is far shorter than the life expectancy of reef ecosystems and equipment design needs to focus on ease of replacement.  And this leads to the second which is redundancy, if a piece of equipment fails it shouldn't cause any death.   (From experience I know my systems will go at least two or three weeks any human intervention.)   Research is showing how critical microbial populations are to healthy corals and I would suggest getting a copy of Forest Rohwer's "Coral Reefs In The Microbial Seas".  It's an excellent and very readable introduction to the role of DOC (Dissolved Organic CArbon) and microbes in reef ecosystems, the kindle version is only $10.  When I think of the filtration on my systems I think of corals as the only critical element and most of the equipment suggestions as superfluous.

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Taking a closer look at your 90 you need to make sure none of the tags stuck in the bottom say it's tempered.  There are exceptions but a tank with a single piece plastic frame around the top and bottom have tempered bottom panes that can't be drilled.   If so an internal overflow can still be installed but hoes for the plumping will need to be drilled through a side.

 

When locating an overflow my first consideration  is where a tank is going to be located in a room.  Generally, when it's first seen when a person steps into a room I want the aquascaping to slope up away from them giving a greater perception of depth.  The overflow would naturally be located behind the tallest aquascaping in the corner away from the entrance to a room.   Giving a greater perception of depth, or making it look bigger, is also why I like have aquascaping that leaves views that go all the way to the back of the tank.   When thinking about the layout I also really like the "rule of thirds" and the similar golden ratio of 1 to 1.6 used in art and architecture and try to have a large aquascaping structure divide the tank into two unequal sections.  

This worked thought process basicly in reverse with my rimless 220 build.   Even though the tank cannot be seen from the foyer with the lights and mangrove a person is immediately drawn to look closer.   With the aquascaping sloping down and away from where the system is first approached it pulls the person down the stairs to look closer and giving the impression it is a lot bigger than it really is as there's a lot of steps to get a complete view.

Of course where it's going to be viewed from when someone is sitting in the room may be reason to aquascape it differently.  And there may be reason to divide the aquascaping equally like in KimP's design I helped her with.  If you look at her dry aquascaping video on page 4 of her build thread you can see the holes for the closed loop were located 1/4 the way from each end.  This allowed the aquascaping to be built to the surface essentially dividing her system into three roughly equal sections.

 

 

As far as the overflow itself I prefer to use just a section of 1" to 2" PVC pipe and a basic sump with no baffles/sections.  If you think you need to run a high flow rate through your system you'll probably want to go with a overflow box and a durso or herbie to deal with the associated noise. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

You can still do an internal overflow box.    You'll have to have the bulkead fitting on the back side but you can have a full height internal box with the bulkhead fitting just above the bottom.  You can locate the overflow at the top with either a shallow overflow box on the inside or some type of intake screen and a box on the outside that has a drain or you can have plumbing go directly from the bulkhead fitting to your sump.

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I’m excited to say that today is the day to swap tanks, the stand build went well, I decided to keep it simple and not drill tank and use HOB overflow that I have already. I’ve done a lot of research leading up to swapping tanks and I think I have and I have some help from a guy who works at a lfs in south Austin, I’ll keep post updated as the day goes, wish me luck

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