Reburn Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 I agree with you Victoly with richardL having a sadistic side. I can't imagine trying to balance all 3. It's insanity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 I agree with you Victoly with richardL having a sadistic side. I can't imagine trying to balance all 3. It's insanity.Victoly? [emoji15] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Ooopppssss Victoly Jeeperty. It's all the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I want to hear anyone's thoughts/criticisms on the following: BornToHula’s Plan of Attack against the Evil Cyanobacteria First attack: Operation Black-out Initiate 3 days of light “Black-out”. After a full 24 hours of darkness I may turn on the lights on 2 hours a day, depending on how my anemones are looking. (The last time I did a full 72 hour blackout I had a green BTA die. I'm not 100% sure if it was the lack of light that did it though.) Second attack: Chemical Warfare After the 3 days of black-out, start dosing Dr. Tims Re-Fresh for a couple weeks to kill whatever cyanobacteria remains. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23665 **Update** As I am writing this I see the label says “Re-Fresh may be harmful to snails and shrimp. Do not overdose on tanks containing these organisms.” Huh… that is vague statement. My fire and pistol shrimp are some of my favorite things in my tank. Not sure about this now. Third attack: Biohazard If there are no traces of cyano after the first two attacks, I will be putting a bio-pellet reactor online to reduce nutrients in the tank. I’m thinking about getting the all-in-one “PM-I Reactor Kit” package: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=25164 I will be starting out with a really small amount of bio-pellets at first to avoid possibly starting another cyano outbreak. During this war against cyano I will continue to do the following: · Weekly 10g water changes. · Feed very conservatively (unless any ill-effects are noticed on the fish) · Run carbon/GFO, changing out both every other week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 I like the idea of carbon dosing to lower your nutrient levels. If it were me, I'd invest in a recirculating type biopellet reactor. They are about the same price or maybe even cheaper than the one you linked. That will allow you to keep the flow fast enough that the pellets always tumble but can control the output into the tank separately. With normal biopellet reactors, to lower the output, you have to lower the flow, which causes the pellets to tumble less, reducing their efficiency and it might also cause them to clump up, which is not what you want. Otherwise, good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 I do like the idea of being able to adjust the output from the reactor while being able to maintain the internal flow for good tumbling. Any suggestions on a brand for recirculating bio-pellet reactors? There doesn't appear to be many reviews online for them. I can only find options from Avast Marine, Aqualund, and Reef Octopus. Out of those three I'm leaning towards the Avast Marine, I can get the reactor, recirculating kit, bio-pellet nozzel and a Sicce Syncra 1.5 pump for $233. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 I believe two people on the board use the Cadlights version and like it. http://www.cadlights.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=213 I'll let them chime in on their personal experiences with them. Too bad this forum doesn't have a tag option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 After doing some more research I went with the Avast Marine reactor with the re-circulation kit. In other news I'm experiencing a weird bug in Apex Fusion where the Alkalinity and Calcium measurement's time scale can no longer be adjusted. Not a big deal but a little annoying. Anyone else experience this? I circled the missing adjustment bars in red below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 You mean you are missing your sliders at the bottom? Odd, mine still has it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Yeah the sliders, haha I couldn't think of what to call them. Mine are only gone from the Alkalinity and Calcium charts, all the others still have theirs. Maybe its a sign I've been testing to much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Could it be possible that you don't have enough readings on the alk and Ca yet to be able to slide yet? Just being Captain Obvious here as I'm sure you looked at that already but wanted to mention in case you overlooked that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 I checked mine and noticed I didn't have a slider on my Magnesium chart. I just touched the graph and had it "reset zoom" and my slider appeared. My laptop is a touch screen, if yours isn't, maybe try click it with a mouse to see if the reset zoom will show up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 I think I have enough data entered for the sliders to be there. I probably have about 20 entries for both Alk and Ca. The sliders were there yesterday before I entered in the test results for the night. After I entered them in they were gone. I couldn't get a "reset zoom" to come up, I'll have to try it on my office computer which has touch screen. Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 No problem. I tried clicking on the screen to no avail. Hopefully the touch screen takes care of it. It's odd either way and Neptune should look into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Using a touch screen to reset the zoom worked, all the charts have their adjustment sliders again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 I had made a thread in the equipment section, but I figured I'd post this here too: I replaced my Bulk Reef Supply RODI system's membrane, filters and DI resin yesterday and now it is very loud when turned on. I thought the noise would probably go away after a few hours, but so far no luck. My first reaction was maybe air was entering the system through a bad connection, but I took the plumbing all apart and put it back together to make sure the connections were tight. Everything seems connected well, and no water leaks after 6 or so hours of use. Here is the sound its making. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 It sounds like air is being sucked into one of the connections. I would pull all John Guest connections, recut the tubing on it as straight as you can (crooked cuts tend to not seal as well) and if possible, use a sharp tool that cuts cleanly more than smashing it if you know what I mean. Also, if you didnt, I would pull the membrane back out of the tube (use gloves, you don't want to contaminate the membrane with bacteria on your hands) and reinsert it but not all the way back in. Then use the cap of the cap of the tube to push on the membrane and allow it to be pushed back into the tube via you screwing the lid on. This allows your membrane to be seated properly. Pushing it all the way back into the chamber first and screwing the cap could allow some water to bypass the membrane entirely! Hope it helps and maybe I'll be 2 for 2 this week! [emoji4] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 After reading that I bet its the membrane. I pushed it all the way back in the tube, and pushed it down pretty hard to make sure it was in there good when I was installing it. Didn't know I wasn't supposed to do that. I'll re-install the membrane tonight and see if you are right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Was the mystery solved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 I ended up having to work late last night so I haven't had a chance to re-install the membrane yet. Hopefully I'll have a chance to get to it tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 I re-installed the membrane tonight and also re-plumbed the flow restrictor line with new piping. It's still making the sound. Can anyone compare this to their BRS unit and see if I have the flow restrictor plumbed correctly? That's about the last idea I have before I start ordering new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Well, I re-plumbed the entire RODI system with new tubing to make sure no air was getting into any of the connections. Still makes the noise. I also removed the Mur-Lok Elbow Check Valves that go into RO membrane housing and inspected them. Everything looked fine. Before I put them back into the housing I removed the old thread tape and put new tape on. Still makes the noise. Replaced the flow restrictor with a new one. Still makes the noise. I give up. I'll just buy some earplugs. I could re-buy all the connections and housings that I suspect could be the issue, but by that point I'm more than halfway to paying the price of a brand new unit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Have you called BRS and talked to them? Maybe it's coming from the new membrane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckyuv Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 When it makes a noise you can't diagnose you can fix it like I do on my truck and get a good sound system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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