Sascha D. Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 I'm going to hit Round Rock Welding on my way home today. I'll let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 I went to Round Rock Welding Supply. The guys I talked to was really nice. The whole transaction took less than 5 minutes. He told me that if I exchanged my tank for a full one, then I wouldn't have to pay inspection fees...ever. I got a full tank for $11.95 out the door. However...Since I was bored yesterday, I made a Kalk Dripper. It works pretty well. I ran a fully saturated gallon of water overnight and raised my dkh by 12ppm to 115ppm starting value for the CaRx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I think I'll be heading to RR welding supply on my next refill. Thanks for the heads up Sascha. Pretty creative with the kalk dripper. I'm sure you have it set in the bottle correctly but just in case, make sure you are off the bottom and not sucking up sediment at the bottom. Also, check your Ca levels buddy. If you do kalk, you are adding Ca as well. Not sure if that was your intent but just wanted to mention if it helped. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 I appreciate the heads up. I set the tubes 1" off the bottom so they wouldn't suck the stuff that didn't dissolve. I would definitely need a larger container if I had to rely on it for an ATO though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Nice, that's precicely the same method I use to dose magnesium when I need to. Hopping on board of your tank thread. Interested to see what you think of your new calcium reactor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 So far so good. The siphon feed broke during the night and stopped the effluent. I started it again this morning from another source that shouldn't break. I wish that I could feed it from my return pump but the feed is only an airline. I need a hose at least 8' long to route the siphon from the display to the CaRx without beeing seen. One day I hope to have nearly all of the electrical hidden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) The first day of CaRx has gone by. The effluent comes out at a solid 6.5 pH. Dkh tested at 118 (+3). I lowered the drip rate from 20 to 10 per minute and lowered the bpm slightly to compensate for the lower effluent drip. Oops... I forgot to say that the DT pH stayed at 8.0. I imagine with the water volume it will not change until I'm dripping 30+ per minute. Edited May 21, 2014 by Sascha D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Day two tests: DT Ph 8.2, effluent Ph 7.9, alk 215 (-3). Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Guessing you mean 115 ppm, right? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 (edited) Yeah. I have to stop drinking. I'm aiming for an alk of about 125-200ppm and a ca of 380-450ppm, but first I have to find a setting for the reactor that doesn't increase my levels. I think I may need to let it go for a couple of days and then check it again. Edited May 22, 2014 by Sascha D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I think you got the right plan sir. I wouldn't read too much into the +/- 3ppm right now and just see how it looks over a week since you are only seeing minute changes in ppm. That could just be read error margin on the Hanna Alk checker. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 The effluent drip has stopped a few times over the last couple of days. I'm afraid that the siphon design isn't going to cut it. I may have to splice the feed line into my drain or buy an aqualifter. I'm running out of plugs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I think i have a spare aqualifter sitting around that I'll never use...It's not as reliable, flow wise, as if you were to get a peristaltic pump, but it will definitely be more reliable than a siphon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I'd just tap your return flow if possible. Put a ball valve on it to be able to meter the flow and you're done. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 I'd just tap your return flow if possible. Put a ball valve on it to be able to meter the flow and you're done. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk I thought about that as well. The problem is that the feed line is simple air tubing. I wouldn't need a ball valve because the reactor is designed to be completely full of water at all times and would only draw enough to cover the drip rate. I guess cut a small hole in the drain line and silicone in the feed line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 You can get a male NPT threaded push connect fitting like this and then drill a hole slightly less than the diameter of the NPT thread (tap the hole if you're feeling fancy), and then add a push connect needle valve like this. voila. You can use a ball valve, but the needle gives you a ton of precision, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 OR you could go the more traditional (probably safer leakwise route) and just add in a tee to your effluent manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks Victoly. I'll check it out. I need to clean up all of the wires and tubing in there. I may also add a worklight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Get one of those taps they use for RO/DI and just tap your return line. The ball valve is also for shutting it off while you service your CaRX. When you throttle the effluent down, you will create some pressure with the higher amount of water going into the reactor. Really depends on the pump you use too. For me, I use a small water flow throttle to lower the input into the reactor since the pump I feed off of runs 5,550 gph, I felt safer pulling it back a bit. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Yeah, what victoly is saying about the tee. My last tank I just added a tee to the setup and used the appropriate plumbing parts to downsize it for tubing. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 My manifold still had open 0.5" hose barbs. Can I use any of that to connect the two? In the meantime I ran the feed into the drain line and it works fine. The effluent had been steady since yesterday. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Can you take out the barb and put In a push connect ? Less connections is a lower leak risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Oh totally just back out that barb and replace it with a threaded push connect. You may need to get a reducer bushing to make it all tie together. You may also need a gate/needle valve if you find that the ball valve doesn't give you enough control to get your drip right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 do they have that at HD or do I have to order it? Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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