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Auto top-off


KarenM

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I put a nice 2 drawer nightstand beside me yank. I put a 30 gallon plastic square bin w/ lid on top of it. I took the float valve from my RO/DI and a fitting from home depot (about $3) and I have gravity fed RO/DI into my sump. Total with valve and fitting from home depot around $20.

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The new tank is where the old one was, which is right around the corner from my laundry room. Gabriel and Craig pointed out that I could put something to hold the top off water around that corner, behind the door, and run line behind the tank and into the sump. I'didn't know anything about top-offs until I saw Gabriel's. Now I'm sold on them!

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The new tank is where the old one was, which is right around the corner from my laundry room. Gabriel and Craig pointed out that I could put something to hold the top off water around that corner, behind the door, and run line behind the tank and into the sump. I'didn't know anything about top-offs until I saw Gabriel's. Now I'm sold on them!

well mine just uses a simple float valve and works excellent...

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I found a tunze kit for $175, but that's it. George - Can you find s pic of yours online? I plan on using a 55 gal drum. Would the gravity feed still work if the water had to travel up the tubing, over the barrels top, and then down to the sump?

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I found a tunze kit for $175, but that's it. George - Can you find s pic of yours online? I plan on using a 55 gal drum. Would the gravity feed still work if the water had to travel up the tubing, over the barrels top, and then down to the sump?

The barrels bottom would have to sit on a stand/platform that was higher than the inlet to the float valve on the sump.

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/accessories.htm

$15.00 - PVC Mini Adjustable Float Valve With 1/4" OD Tubing Inlet

and

http://www.shop.com/Couplings_JG27CC_1_4MP...14-o!.shtml

1/4MPT Plastic Ball Valve

(found at home depot or lowes)

and 1/4 plastic tubing, like is on your RO/DI... Also from lowes.

1. Drill hole into sump and mount item 1 inside with float level at max fill level in sump.

2. Drill hole into bottom edge of barrel and mount item 2. I used silicone to seal it in there

3. Elevate Item 2 higher than Item 1

4 Run tubing from 2 to 1

5 fill barrel

6. open item 2

7 monitor level in sump and adjust item 1 until set right

8 fill ro/di barrel as needed or allow RO/DI auto shut off to work.

Call me if you need anymore help

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Karen I really think this is the one your should go with:

http://www.top-off.com/viewitem.php?it_id=...2c3c94036077f18

Just for ease and reliability.

You can us an Aqua lifter pump

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~Sea...es~vendor~.html

The drum doesn't have to be elevated and it has a back up switch for redundancy. I have heard of several horror stories of float valves clogging and staying open.

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Karen I really think this is the one your should go with:

http://www.top-off.com/viewitem.php?it_id=...2c3c94036077f18

Just for ease and reliability.

You can us an Aqua lifter pump

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~Sea...es~vendor~.html

The drum doesn't have to be elevated and it has a back up switch for redundancy. I have heard of several horror stories of float valves clogging and staying open.

The same float valve you use on your RO/DI... Everything has a chance to fail. That is why you do "Preventive Checks" on your equipment. I will take a mechanical switch/valve/assembly over a electric switch any day.. I guess it is the mechanic in me wanting simpler.

Either way Karen you will be ok with whatever you choose.. It is nice to leave your top-off alone for awhile..

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I'm with you, Gabe.

I manually fill my Top Off container.

I never have more water running into the system than can be handled should a problem occur.

I've spent enough hours with a wet vac in my life already.

I like the Top Offs that use a powerhead to add water to a system. This way, I can mount the powerhead high enough in my top off barrel where it will run dry if a problem occurs. I'd rather replace a $20 powerhead than wet vac my living room.

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I order the top-off yesterday. The aqua-lifter website says it pumps water up to 30". What does that mean, that the tubing needs to be close to 30"? It's probably going to be longer by the time it goes from the bottom of the water container, around the corner, and over to the sump.

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Just to re-emphasize what tomanero said, be careful topping off with a 55 gallon drum if your system is unable to deal with all of that water at once. Although the topoff you are getting has a backup switch, if for some reason it fails and the Aqualifter keeps pumping, your system will overflow and drop your salinity. I use five gallon containers only for that reason.

The 30" refers to how high the Aqualifter can lift water. If you set your input line 4' above your lifter it won't be much more than a trickle if that.

Another warning, you need to set your water input at a higher elevation than your water drum used for topoff. If not and once the lifter gets the water started, it will gravity feed and cause a spill. Lesson learned.

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