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GE Silicone question


esacjack

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I realized this morning I assembled the hoses to my new tank using GE Silicone II for Bathrooms and Kitchens. The tank wont be going into full swing for another month or two. With that in mind, do I need to redo my hoses with GE Silicone II for windows and doors? Or will the long curing time before cycling be sufficient?

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do you have water in the system? If you have it all empty and let it dry/cure thoroughly it should be fine. you can go read Chipp's build thread and see the effect of not curing it and hear what you have to do to use it.

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Oddly enough, I had read Chipps thread many times, love that ADA. For some reason, the silicone type didn't stick to my head. I was too distracted by his tank! ha. Well there isn't any water in the system, and there wont be till I'm done with construction. So it will likely be about another month or month and a half before I put any water in it at all.

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I dunno man, a quick googling turns up quite a few " EVERYTHING IS DEAD" GE silicon II threads. If it were me, I'd redo it with something that was reef safe :/ Everything could totally be fine, but I just wouldn't take the chance.

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Just talked with Shane, and by process of elimination, he agreed it was probably my silicone. He says he uses the same silicone BUT he said he buys it by the case, and 1, sometimes 2 of the tubes are bad-- meaning the silicone won't cure completely, and for me to check my hoses and see if there's any slime indicating it's not cured. Silicone won't cure if wet and will keep poisoning the tank.

I pulled the above from chipp's thread. To add some context he is saying he used GE II and it killed the tank, he checked with shane at FB and he uses the same thing but as you see abovve some tubes dont always cure completely.

If it was my tank I'd pull it and redo it with 100% silicone, often near the glass/acrylic/lexan area there is DAP 100% silicone in tubes and hand tubes.

I'd only do that because it's known that some tubes won't cure completely, I suppose you could use more of the tube and see if it does cure completely and not worry about it.

Your call :D

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i'll keep an eye on it, but i'll plan on redoing the tubing and start buying parts (just in case) . The return hose currently has a T and honestly I'd prefer a Y :) Can anyone recommend a good place for 3/4 tubing? :D

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You must use GE silicone 1. The GE 2 version has the mildew resistant stuff in it. VERY BAD FOR THE TANK!!!!!!. I would let it totally dry then peel it off if you can. Just clean it real good before you apply the other silicone.

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You must use GE silicone 1. The GE 2 version has the mildew resistant stuff in it. VERY BAD FOR THE TANK!!!!!!. I would let it totally dry then peel it off if you can. Just clean it real good before you apply the other silicone.

Bingo!

But, I'm also a little skeptical of silicone 1 as far as being a long lasting caulk for below waterline waterproof seals. Read the fine print on the back of the tube. I try to use special tank caulk now for important seals, ASI makes a good one.

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Replaced as of last night. And as for why, it was mentioned to me by a few other reefers that putting silicone on my return lines at the junction, would keep it from slipping off and shooting water on the floor. I'm not a big fan of metal hose clamps or zip ties on plumbing.

Better safe than sorry; just replace it all now.

The better question is why were you sealing/assembling hoses with silicone?

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