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Nick's 115 DAS build


jaggedfire

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Yeah, the glass on its own is pretty easy. I have an old 75 in the garage that I decided to 'practice' on before tackling this larger seal next weekend. Time table is going to depend on if I can get this new silicone.

Anyone familiar with Wacker brand Elastosil products? The e43, e41 and e47 specs look to have 50% greater tensile and tear strength as the Momentive 100 and twice that of DC732, AND! comes in translucent. Supposed to have excellent adhesion to cured silicon also. The cheapest I can find it so far is around $40/tube....but, it would be worth knowing I wont have to worry. I am calling another rep tomorrow for sources and see if I can order in the US.

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I have Momentive RTV103 in black that I will use for the 75.IF this works well and I cant get my hands on the Elastosil, I will press forward with the Momentive on the 120 tank. It is rated much higher (tear) than the other products already.Real quickly here is what I have dug up; Tensile is important, but from what I have read, the tear strength is the more important stat here. Some numbers are converted from metric while others are not stated. GE I silicone (GE012) is not included as I have not found a datasheet.

post-2213-0-07810100-1345479327.jpg

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I am very interested in your tank. I cut out the old silicone on my 90 gal bowfront (prior to reading your problems). Resealed it last week and have let it dry and set for 9 days. I plan on filling the tank tomorrow to see if it holds. please.gif

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I managed to get the top rim/moulding off without incident. This is pushing me the way of the dark side and cut the whole thing apart. Trick was 20lb test monofilament.

I need more razor blades..........

Nick, don't go to "the dark side". FoxFace and Coral Beauty are doing very well and they need you to stay with us. Patrick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I started rebuilding the tank and have the braces on front/back panes. I am using the Wacker Elastosil E952, and the stuff is incredible. Crystal clear, excellent flow properties and it has incredible specs for tensile and tear characteristics. I will post some photos soon.

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Here are a few photos of the silicone after curing.

The first is a test sample after curing to test clarity:

post-2213-0-38630300-1347047262_thumb.jp

Even with the slight ripple, this stuff is supper transparent.

This is the leveling performance of a 48" length on the front euro brace.

post-2213-0-32816700-1347047270_thumb.jp

I used tape to clean up the edges. If you zoom in, you can see a slight wave. This is over a long span though so this isnt visible normally. Zero bubbles, excellent work-ability and skin time. It will sag on vertical seams to a degree if you you too much.

I am pretty satisfied with this stuff.

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Don't go to the " dark side".

If you can take a break, come visit. Coral Beauty and Foxface want to flash their colors at you. It looks to be a bodacious day to enjoy outside and I plan on doing some BBQ. Come get some Red Ogo. Good for fish and people. Bring kids and family. I just did put a new batch of mollies into my outside 75G tank which has no center brace. I have to get Sea Robin out of this tank. The mollies do not stand a chance with this ambush predator.

In any case, the suggestion to get away from the thick of it is well intentioned advice. Take a break and go have some fun with your family.

La bonne temps roulee,

Patrick

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Thanks Patrick.

After I got the rest of things under control last night I decided to take a break. The other tangs werent eating so I gave them a variety of macro/nori and let them be while I took the day to spend resting and catching up with the kids. I missed your invitation until too late, but it was quite thoughtful and appreciated. I wish this weekend were longer to enjoy the weather and company more!

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Hey Gator.

I am having to build one panel at a time. I cant seem to find hands (or coordinating schedule) for help. It is coming together and the Elastosil is really easy to work with. It does have a longer cure time though, so I have roughly 24 hrs before I can reliably move each panel group.

I have decided to euro brace the bottom as well, so I am taking my time with the outer (mechanical) seals. After this, I will assemble the lower braces all at once for a better bond.

The adhesion from fresh (newly cured) to new silicone is incredible.

My next step is to find room and tackle the stand as it seems this is where all my troubles originated. The back-center dips around 1/8-3/16 of an inch. I am not sure whether to just shim the stand to tank interface, or float the stand surface with a leveling material. Also, the back of the stand does not have a center support. I do plan on adding this first by placing a 1x2 in compression. This will tell me how much adjustment needs to be made to the surface.

Hopefully, the new plywood (3/4" vs old 5/8") that the tank is built on top of will help disperse the load under the tank and further buffer the uneven surfaces.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Well, I needed to update this. I ended up getting the glass all back together. Leak tested for 4 weeks. De-prioritized and moved off to the side while I changed jobs....Just to move again and loose all my SPS/LPS coral.

After the move, I found a chip in one of the bottom floating panels in the corner......so I am rebuilding... again. Anyone know what Binswanger (or better company!) charges per sq/ft of 10mm or 3/8" glass plus drilling of 2 or 3 holes? Or can I possibly reuse this panel?

I have having to come to terms with the fact I may never get this tank back before having to move on .....but I will try. Building up a 50" tank one panel at a time by yourself is difficult, at least with the perfection I am expecting hoping for.

TIA

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Edited by jaggedfire
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It is 3/8 in glass, but is the bottom panel at the corner and on the bottom of the panel. I am afraid this experiences to much stress to risk. Unless I went with the original plan of running a brace along the bottom?????

Any input on this? Reseal and brace vs replace?

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