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Nick's 115 DAS build


jaggedfire

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I have been in the process of upgrading for a few months now as my 25 is being over run. Being my second tank (4th really if you include short term 2 month in between tanks), this will be primarily sps/lps and some of my favorite fish. It has already short term cycled this week and rock work is almost done.

Some details:

115 DAS tank and stand

Lighting is currently 3x T12 + Coralife quad T5.

40 breeder sump (216 sq in DSB + macro, rubble rock and frag compartment)

100# BRS Eco rock -dry

60# super light porous rock (Vanuatu or Melanesian?) -Sun bleached

40# Fiji rock to seed from previous tank.

Tunze 6060 + 1x Koralia 2.

Since flow will be paramount, I'd like to upgrade to Vortechs in the future.

I plan on building leds for this in the near term as well as a controller down the line after I learn the tank. So far this tank stays much, 77F vs 82 on my 25gal. I am not sure to the exact reason yet, but it doesn't have the sump running, so pump heat(lack of) and surface area for evaporation are probably a factor.

I will try to get photos posted as I go for any interested. I have a habit of logging any and all tested parameters, modifications and additions in a notebook, but having a digital log would be nice to keep track, so I am interested in controller recommendations. I could also build with a spare arduino and some relays too.

Thanks for tagging along and !

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  • 3 weeks later...

Then while messing with the skimmer (back side of tank):

post-2213-0-44120800-1344924298_thumb.jp

Then I panic and bust out all the hoses, pumps and buckets I can:

post-2213-0-61678700-1344924250_thumb.jp

Once I got all the water drained and rock, livestock and sand out, this is what I went to sleep, er...bed thinking about (after adding pumps to all):

post-2213-0-30143800-1344924274_thumb.jp

After a few days someone loaned me a few 55 drums to condense the water:

post-2213-0-37189900-1344924321_thumb.jp

So now, all corals are in my 25 or a 20L holding tank:

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And I am still crying on the inside.... Here is a thread with the tank decon/refurb. This has been a long week...and this is a small tank! How did anyone with a big tank do it?!

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That is SO sad! I'm sorry that happened, it's such a good thing that you were right there and caught it. The aquascaping looked really great! I've been following your repair thread and it makes me nervous just looking at the work you have ahead of you. Good luck!

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Thanks Kim. I spent a lot of time on the rock and designed for future growth. The fish were already settling in and were really enjoying the room. I did manage to keep the hardest pieces to adhere (epoxy) together, so I should be able to get this back together mostly the same.

The next part of the budget was going into the light build.....guess that is on hold until the tank is holding water.....

It has been a long week.

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I have been trying to strategize and formulate a plan of attack on this tank. After a few back and forths in another thread and more research, I am going to stick with a bottom reseal+brace/patch.

I started cutting out the lower panels last night...what a PITA! And messy.

post-2213-0-99024400-1345133734_thumb.jp

post-2213-0-08393700-1345133741_thumb.jp

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This is just the beginning as there is a lot more to clean. Even though it doesnt show much, I am going through many many blades to scrape this away. To the tune of 1 for every 10 inches.

post-2213-0-09314000-1345133846_thumb.jp

The plan is to use acetone to clean up the rest of the glass along with 00 steel wool before resealing. Any other suggestions on cleaning agents?

I am a bit apprehensive about moving the tank while the bottom is cut out, but what'cha gonna' do? I cut a new piece of 3/4" ply last night which will replace the previous 5/8" that was pretty flimsy.

Here is the plan for reassembly and test:

  1. Center lower panels on new ply on ground
  2. Apply (copious amounts) RTV around perimeter and all joining edges including overflows
  3. Rotate and lower tank around lower panels
  4. Add silicone around perimeter where patch (3/8 x 1.5" panels) will be applied
  5. Lay patch panels in and press into place (avoiding air pockets)
  6. Continuous cleanup of silicon on edges (will need a few extra hands!)
  7. Cure for 72-96 hrs.
  8. Leak test at max fill for 1 week

This should not only provide a replacement seal at the original panels joining surfaces, but also strengthen the seal with silicon at the base<->glass and glass<->patch with a 1,2,3 seal.

Thanks Entropy for your input. I had really hoped to see or hear from someone who had seen this first hand.

post-2213-0-91845700-1345134714_thumb.jp

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For what its worth, contact hydro and ask him about resealing tanks. He did a 90 gallon exactly like your about to and it failed 4 times before he just trashed the tank. He had bad success unless he broke down the entire tanka nd resealed from scratch......

Either way I look forward to the outcome, good or bad its a learning experience.

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I think the plan as pictured will work. The only part I am a bit concerned about is the silicone between the bottom and the plywood. My tank was not supported at all under the glass except that it sat on the stand which was just an 1inch or so around the perimeter.

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I actually thought the bottom of your tank was epoxy coated plywood. I feel alot better about your plan now that I realize you have a glass bottom and then plywood. If you use the bracing on the inside I am not sure the plywood is even needed.

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I agree on the necessity of the plywood not being needed, but it was integrated with the surround and has to be used for the moulding. I also think the thickness for the silicon in between the ply and bottom/is a bit exaggerated....it will basically be pressed out and only form a skin.

I feel the weakest point in the plan is the corners. The pin point in the crevise is the Achilles on this.

@Bio: Do you know what Hydro used for silicon/cleaner combo? I dont doubt his skill at all. In fact, if I knew he had time to do this, I would sub this out! I am looking for lessons-learned.

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When he did it he used DOW 732 or something like that, I know it was the same one offroaddodge recomends. He then used razors, acetone, mineral spirits, and xylenol I think for cleaners along with emory cloth and scrub pads..... don't forget the onslaught on curse words it seems to make it work better ;) After it was all cleaned he would use acetone to dry it real smooth, also put in metal spacers to make sure the silicone stayed at the thickness he wants.

If we did not live so far apart I would invite you to bring the tank into my newly cleaned garage and we would break it down and rebuild the whole thing as a fun project. Problem is there is a giant city called Austin in the way....we should ask the city to move.

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don't forget the onslaught on curse words it seems to make it work better

Already started!

If we did not live so far apart I would invite you to bring the tank into my newly cleaned garage and we would break it down and rebuild the whole thing as a fun project. Problem is there is a giant city called Austin in the way....we should ask the city to move.

I am not opposed to packing it up and doing it at another location. I do/will have ~3 available hands though when reassembling at my house.

Dimensions are 51x25x22 ish, so it fits into just about anything. Not light though!

Any success with full teardown and reassemble? If this is even a 5% better chance of success, it will do it. The seams on the corners are beautiful though.....would be a shame.

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When he broke down entire tanks he had a 99% success rate. When he tried to just repair an area he ran into a lot lower success rate. I remember one time he repaired one panel cause the other seams were great and in the process somehow lost the other seams at the edges and they eventually started to pull apart, that might have been because the previous owner took out a center brace and it bowed I'm not sure.

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When he broke down entire tanks he had a 99% success rate. When he tried to just repair an area he ran into a lot lower success rate. I remember one time he repaired one panel cause the other seams were great and in the process somehow lost the other seams at the edges and they eventually started to pull apart, that might have been because the previous owner took out a center brace and it bowed I'm not sure.

I would agree with this. I have tried to repair just one section and always seemed to leak. Once I reduced it to just glass, 100% success. If it leaked once, you may want to just break it all down and resilicone all of it. It's not hard. And goes together very quickly.

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Would it not be easier and more cost efficient to just get a different tank

Easier, yes. More cost efficient, no. Keep in mind his tank has odd dimensions, so likely he is not going to find the same thing off the shelf. This means what ever new tank he finds will not fit the stand, so the cost goes up. You can reseal a tank for under $100 and make it as good as new IMO, maybe better. Plus you can use black silicone, which is usually an upcharge for most aquarium makers (why I don't know).

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. . .Any success with full teardown and reassemble? If this is even a 5% better chance of success, it will do it. The seams on the corners are beautiful though.....would be a shame.

If you are willing to put in the time and effort to clean off the old siliscone I would think a complete tear down would give better peace of mind as you would not have the thought of an old joint giving out nagging at the back of your mind. To get nice looking joints is a two step process. First silicone between the joints. Clean off the excess silicone squeezed out, both inside and oustide. Use painters tape to tape off the inside glass about 3/8 from the joint. Apply a second bead of silicone. Use a plastic spoon to squeeze the silicone into the joint and giving a smooth convex surface that feathers onto the tape with the excess silicone pushed off onto the tae and a very thin film left at the edge of the tape. If necessary you can run an exacto knife or razor blade along the edge of the tape before pulling it off after the silicone dries (a straight edge would help). You also could use this process just to get a new clean silicone seal on the inside of the tank without actually cutting it apart.

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